How to do your own PE parts in 1 hour ;) - Page 3

gionc · 04-29-2007, 03:50 AM

Hi Nens: any electronic stores, they just should be 12W UVA lamps (the kind long approx 30 cm.), my suggestion is to mount lamps 10-12 cm far from glass board, for a better (and longer) uniform exposition.

Murray Kish · 04-29-2007, 05:32 PM

This thread is definitely a keeper. Thanks gionc...

Murray

cinqster · 05-01-2007, 05:23 PM

Great tutorial G. Nice to see those Lightwave manuals being put to good use! LOL!

gionc · 05-02-2007, 12:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cinqster

Great tutorial G. Nice to see those Lightwave manuals being put to good use! LOL!

Yep: better use I know, those is dammn stodgy stuff

LOL

dflett · 05-02-2007, 01:32 PM

Gionc

Are you willing to share your source(s) for the Ferrari technical drawings?

Thank you for the tutorial! I had just started to wonder about doing my own photo-etch. Thanks for sharing.

gionc · 05-03-2007, 02:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dflett

Gionc

Are you willing to share your source(s) for the Ferrari technical drawings?

Thank you for the tutorial! I had just started to wonder about doing my own photo-etch. Thanks for sharing.

Just in the 360CS Owners Manual: you'll find it around or for cheap on ebay: it's a huge file to send for email, zory.

jotace · 05-30-2007, 09:14 AM

Nice tutorial you have here. Thanks.
Just some questions - what kind of acid do you use for the etching? Does it work also with brass ? I use Ferric Chlorid (FeCl3) but is too dirty and too sow, even at 60º.
Thanks
JC

gionc · 05-31-2007, 02:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jotace

Nice tutorial you have here. Thanks.
Just some questions - what kind of acid do you use for the etching? Does it work also with brass ? I use Ferric Chlorid (FeCl3) but is too dirty and too sow, even at 60º.
Thanks
JC

Sorry for late reply, I noticed now. Yes, I found FeCl3 crappy too. Don't know how kind of thing I'm still using, is something from saemann-aetztechnik, the better kind. I guess it would be great also with brass.

pedrofsky · 12-11-2009, 11:50 AM

i have a question, what would be the minimum dpi to do good PE parts? And what dpi resolution you would recommend?

Sorry, only saw the last comment date, its from 2007, anyway, if someone can help, im grateful.

AAlmeida · 12-11-2009, 02:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pedrofsky

i have a question, what would be the minimum dpi to do good PE parts? And what dpi resolution you would recommend?

Sorry, only saw the last comment date, its from 2007, anyway, if someone can help, im grateful.

Pedro 600dpi at least, 1200dpi would be better for minimum details.

pedrofsky · 12-11-2009, 02:44 PM

My printer i think is 1200x1200 so its ok.. Thanks!

gionc · 12-13-2009, 02:07 AM

Hi, sorry for late reply, been busy lately.
For a "professional" look when etched, PE needs a professional source like a slide printed by a offset industry' service: those services (ever less, since the born of the print to plate process) that print slides to build plates for the graphic industry.

You'll get decent results at home, my printer get 9600 by 2400 dpi (inkjet). I got also printers with lower outputs, by 1200 and 2400 dpi, but if you can get better or use a friend's printer, more resolution would be helpful.

My advice is to start with a good professional film, and etch the first stuff, than you'll decide and compare by yourself what is needed and what is enough.

Serioga · 12-21-2009, 07:27 AM

Hi, Gionc.
I very like your article. I start to etching PE parts my self, but got stuck. Yesterday I tried to etch stainless steel (0,25mm thick) in FeCl solution, but after an hour the sheet was cowered with small cavitys, even under the photoresist. It is the failure.
As I see on your photos the metal you used is looks like steel. What is it? And what kind of Acid have you used?
Final question: where do you buy laminated metal sheets? Is there on-line shop?

Thanks in advance,
Sergey

gionc · 12-30-2009, 04:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Serioga

Hi, Gionc.
I very like your article. I start to etching PE parts my self, but got stuck. Yesterday I tried to etch stainless steel (0,25mm thick) in FeCl solution, but after an hour the sheet was cowered with small cavitys, even under the photoresist. It is the failure.
As I see on your photos the metal you used is looks like steel. What is it? And what kind of Acid have you used?
Final question: where do you buy laminated metal sheets? Is there on-line shop?

Thanks in advance,
Sergey

Sorry for delay Sergey: All my supplies (boards and acid, developing agent and eventually warm pool) are from Saemann.de, have a look

I also didn't got good result with photoresist laquer, but I intend to study better the thing now or then, would be useful for 3D shaped objects

psedney · 08-02-2011, 03:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gionc

Sorry for delay Sergey: All my supplies (boards and acid, developing agent and eventually warm pool) are from Saemann.de, have a look

I also didn't got good result with photoresist laquer, but I intend to study better the thing now or then, would be useful for 3D shaped objects

Hi all,

I'm sorry for bringing this thread up again, but I have a question regarding to the source of the UV sheets.

I'm looking at saemann.de, but I can't find anything near to none of these items. Is there any place or ebay shop where I can find them?

Close to where I live, there's a manufacturer of these kind of plates, but the material is aluminium instead of brass or niquel. Would it work properly?

Thank you very much.

regards!

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