Automotive Forums .com - the leading automotive community online! Automotive Forums .com - the leading automotive community online!
Automotive Forums .com - the leading automotive community online! 
-
Latest | 0 Rplys
Go Back   Automotive Forums .com Car Chat > Chevrolet > S-10
Reply Show Printable Version Show Printable Version | Email this Page Email this Page | Subscription Subscribe to this Thread
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 06-29-2009, 08:39 PM   #1
TallyMatt
AF Newbie
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Tallahassee, Florida
Posts: 7
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
2000 S-10 4.3L V6 AC Replacement Questions

I need help with doing a full AC replacement on my own in my 2000 Chevy S10 with 4.3L V6 engine. Compressor failed and sent metal throughout the system. Orificie was completely blocked and looked like diamond jewelry!

I am replacing: compressor, accumulator, orifice, condenser, high-side valve and evap. Flushing & re-using the hose assemblely and high-side metal line from condensor to evap. This should be a 100% clean and new system. Since everything is new, I have NO oil in the system at all (except what's factory pre-filled in the new comp.)

I know to vacuum system for 30min to 1hr before charging, perform a vacuum-hold check for 1 additional hr, check for leaks, basic use of manifold gauges, and that I should replace & pre-oil O-rings with the green rings.....

I need to know: how much compressor oil to add -- volume in Oz, what type & viscosity, how to distrubute it throughout the system. I've read to put half in compressor and half in the accumulator... I assume that I should use PAG100.... but I'm not sure and manual is no help and neither are the compressor install instructions.

I also need: clear instructions on how to add the oil to the compressor -- specifically, where to pour it in.... I assume thru the two holes that the AC hoses bolt into..... I know once oil is added to spin the compressor 10-15 times before first use.

Compressor comes pre-filled with oil and very clearly in big BOLD letters says NOT to dump it out, yet everything I read says TO dump it out and pour back in after confirming correct amt. There aren't any clear instructions that I can find. What should I do?

And I'm sure this last question is going to make a few of you Pros chuckle.... does vacuuming the system remore the compressor oil from the system along with the unwanted air? I assume NO, but I'd rather ask a dumb question that F-up a brand new compressor!

Many thanks in advance for your thoughtful help! I'm hoping to have all parts and start Wed. afternoon!
TallyMatt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-29-2009, 09:51 PM   #2
j cAT
AF Fanatic
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: EVERETT, Massachusetts
Posts: 10,847
Thanks: 6
Thanked 431 Times in 430 Posts
Re: 2000 S-10 4.3L V6 AC Replacement Questions

Quote:
Originally Posted by TallyMatt View Post
I need help with doing a full AC replacement on my own in my 2000 Chevy S10 with 4.3L V6 engine. Compressor failed and sent metal throughout the system. Orificie was completely blocked and looked like diamond jewelry!

I am replacing: compressor, accumulator, orifice, condenser, high-side valve and evap. Flushing & re-using the hose assemblely and high-side metal line from condensor to evap. This should be a 100% clean and new system. Since everything is new, I have NO oil in the system at all (except what's factory pre-filled in the new comp.)

I know to vacuum system for 30min to 1hr before charging, perform a vacuum-hold check for 1 additional hr, check for leaks, basic use of manifold gauges, and that I should replace & pre-oil O-rings with the green rings.....

I need to know: how much compressor oil to add -- volume in Oz, what type & viscosity, how to distrubute it throughout the system. I've read to put half in compressor and half in the accumulator... I assume that I should use PAG100.... but I'm not sure and manual is no help and neither are the compressor install instructions.

I also need: clear instructions on how to add the oil to the compressor -- specifically, where to pour it in.... I assume thru the two holes that the AC hoses bolt into..... I know once oil is added to spin the compressor 10-15 times before first use.

Compressor comes pre-filled with oil and very clearly in big BOLD letters says NOT to dump it out, yet everything I read says TO dump it out and pour back in after confirming correct amt. There aren't any clear instructions that I can find. What should I do?

And I'm sure this last question is going to make a few of you Pros chuckle.... does vacuuming the system remore the compressor oil from the system along with the unwanted air? I assume NO, but I'd rather ask a dumb question that F-up a brand new compressor!

Many thanks in advance for your thoughtful help! I'm hoping to have all parts and start Wed. afternoon!
these GM compressors use pag 150 about 8oz...if drained...

It is best to put too much oil...a few oz over will only reduce the effeciency of the cooling...too little and the refrigerent will leak out quickly...

where did you get the 100 number ???
when you put a vacuum pump on the system this is to remove air ...air is water. water mixed with this pag oil will create acid and as you saw the compressor and other componets get damaged..if the vacuum holds this means no leaks and no air/water in the system...it takes a while for oil to be cleaned of air DO NOT SHAKE OIL,,MAKE AIR BUBBLES..

REMOVAL OF THE TIRE VALVE TO INJECT THE OIL...ON THE SUCTION LOW SIDE..

normally oil does not get sucked out by the vac. pump...

I suspect you/someone put too much refrigerent in the system ,,,this is bad,,, very bad because if the compressor pumps liquid,, you will have metal pieces ....as the compressor is designed to pump only gases...
j cAT is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-30-2009, 06:44 AM   #3
TallyMatt
AF Newbie
Thread starter
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Tallahassee, Florida
Posts: 7
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Re: 2000 S-10 4.3L V6 AC Replacement Questions

OK, Thanks for responding, but its still not clear to me:

1.) Yes or No, should I dump out the factory pre-filled oil that comes in my new compressor? If yes, am I dumping it out to discard it completely, or only to measure it and put it right back into the new compressor? Or am I removing it for some other reason?

2.) You say to fill from the suction side...OK.... Does this mean I put NO OIL in the compressor and put ALL 8oz in the suction side? Do I put the oil in before vacuuming? I've got the liquid type oil in the bulk can with the metal screw-off lid..... so, I just unscrew & pour. Its not the pressurized container of oil (recharge kit).... Should I be using the compressed oil instead of the bulk pour can?
TallyMatt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-30-2009, 08:04 AM   #4
MT-2500
AF - Advisor
 
MT-2500's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: New London, Missouri
Posts: 16,692
Thanks: 5
Thanked 121 Times in 120 Posts
Re: 2000 S-10 4.3L V6 AC Replacement Questions

Quote:
Originally Posted by TallyMatt View Post
OK, Thanks for responding, but its still not clear to me:

1.) Yes or No, should I dump out the factory pre-filled oil that comes in my new compressor? If yes, am I dumping it out to discard it completely, or only to measure it and put it right back into the new compressor? Or am I removing it for some other reason?

2.) You say to fill from the suction side...OK.... Does this mean I put NO OIL in the compressor and put ALL 8oz in the suction side? Do I put the oil in before vacuuming? I've got the liquid type oil in the bulk can with the metal screw-off lid..... so, I just unscrew & pour. Its not the pressurized container of oil (recharge kit).... Should I be using the compressed oil instead of the bulk pour can?
Dump and drain out new compressor oil and pitch it.
Hard telling what kind of oil it is and the amount.

HT6 compressor takes 30 oz R-134a and 8 oz pag 150 oil
V7 compressor takes 28 oz R-134a and 9 oz pag 150 oil

If the system is flushed and compressor drained.
You can just pour in most of it into the reciever dryer.
Use bulk pag oil from a bottle with oz marked on bottle and put correct oil and amount it into reciever dryer.
Or and add 2 oz to compresser and the rest in the reciever dryer.
Good luck
__________________
Remember proper testing gives us the answer to many problems.
MT
MT-2500 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-30-2009, 09:26 AM   #5
j cAT
AF Fanatic
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: EVERETT, Massachusetts
Posts: 10,847
Thanks: 6
Thanked 431 Times in 430 Posts
Re: 2000 S-10 4.3L V6 AC Replacement Questions

Quote:
Originally Posted by TallyMatt View Post
OK, Thanks for responding, but its still not clear to me:

1.) Yes or No, should I dump out the factory pre-filled oil that comes in my new compressor? If yes, am I dumping it out to discard it completely, or only to measure it and put it right back into the new compressor? Or am I removing it for some other reason?

2.) You say to fill from the suction side...OK.... Does this mean I put NO OIL in the compressor and put ALL 8oz in the suction side? Do I put the oil in before vacuuming? I've got the liquid type oil in the bulk can with the metal screw-off lid..... so, I just unscrew & pour. Its not the pressurized container of oil (recharge kit).... Should I be using the compressed oil instead of the bulk pour can?
what mt2500 stated I agree with...after the oil is installed start vacuum on system until its low and stable...hold vac..then start charging..do not put too much in keep low side pressures below 50 psi...

I keep at 40 - 45psi ...

use the ac gauge set valves to switch from vac pump to charging cylinder..
j cAT is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-10-2009, 10:23 PM   #6
TallyMatt
AF Newbie
Thread starter
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Tallahassee, Florida
Posts: 7
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Bad low pressure switch? How do I calculate correct pressures?

OK, I've searched high and low (no pun intended) for a decent chart that will tell me what reasonable high and low side pressures should be, in conjunction with ambient temp. and Relative Humidity.

I'm in Florida and temps are usually 90 - 95 during the day and RH is anywhere from 85 to 99.

I got everything (compressor, evap., condenser, orifice and accumulator) reinstalled, added PAG150, vaccumed the system, added 2 12oz cans of R134 w/dye, no visible leaks via dark night and a black light. System ran great for a few hours, then comp. clutch disengaged. I gently shook the low-pressure pigtail connector that's plugged into the low-switch and then the cluctch engaged again, then disengaged... it keeps shutting off at random intervals, but not like the cycling that was occurring on my last compressor when I had a leak... this is different....

I jumpered the low-side pigtail with a paper clip in order to get the compressor to come and stay on and then connected my gauges. Low side press. was just above 25psi and high was under 200psi ( I think -- it was a few hours ago ), ambient temp was about 84..... Could it be a bad low-pressure switch -- or does it sound more like a leak? How do I properly troubleshoot this? I've checked for dye and cannot find any anywhere.... after running the system for about 4 hours.

While jumpered, compressor "seemed" to work fine and temp in vents in the cabin were ice cold.....
TallyMatt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-11-2009, 08:52 AM   #7
TallyMatt
AF Newbie
Thread starter
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Tallahassee, Florida
Posts: 7
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Re: 2000 S-10 4.3L V6 AC Replacement Questions

OK, I re-verified gauge readings as of right now.

Outside temp: 78, RH = 82%

@ Idle, 600 RPM, gauges read: 40psi, low, 210psi high

@1800 RPM, low = 29psi, 260psi high

Again, this is with paper clip jumpering the low-side pigtail.... if I plug pigtail back into the low-side switch, system runs for around 10 minutes and then shuts off (and may randomly start again, may not). If you shut off car, and turn back on, compressor comes right back on.... If engine is on and it cuts off, it may come back on if I "jiggle" the pigtail a bit.

Leak? or bad switch? System was pressurized at 6pm last night.... about 16 hours ago, or so....
TallyMatt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-11-2009, 08:52 AM   #8
MT-2500
AF - Advisor
 
MT-2500's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: New London, Missouri
Posts: 16,692
Thanks: 5
Thanked 121 Times in 120 Posts
Re: Bad low pressure switch? How do I calculate correct pressures?

Quote:
Originally Posted by TallyMatt View Post
OK, I've searched high and low (no pun intended) for a decent chart that will tell me what reasonable high and low side pressures should be, in conjunction with ambient temp. and Relative Humidity.

I'm in Florida and temps are usually 90 - 95 during the day and RH is anywhere from 85 to 99.

I got everything (compressor, evap., condenser, orifice and accumulator) reinstalled, added PAG150, vaccumed the system, added 2 12oz cans of R134 w/dye, no visible leaks via dark night and a black light. System ran great for a few hours, then comp. clutch disengaged. I gently shook the low-pressure pigtail connector that's plugged into the low-switch and then the cluctch engaged again, then disengaged... it keeps shutting off at random intervals, but not like the cycling that was occurring on my last compressor when I had a leak... this is different....

I jumpered the low-side pigtail with a paper clip in order to get the compressor to come and stay on and then connected my gauges. Low side press. was just above 25psi and high was under 200psi ( I think -- it was a few hours ago ), ambient temp was about 84..... Could it be a bad low-pressure switch -- or does it sound more like a leak? How do I properly troubleshoot this? I've checked for dye and cannot find any anywhere.... after running the system for about 4 hours.

While jumpered, compressor "seemed" to work fine and temp in vents in the cabin were ice cold.....
Low side of 28 is real good.
But can range from 26-35 lbs.

High side from 175 to 250 lbs is good.

At 25 lbs low side the low pressure switch will cycle off. then come back on when low pressure come back to round 35-38 lbs.

24 oz R-24 is a little low charge.
May need some more.

I would add another 4-6 oz R-134 and see if low side comes up to 28-30 lbs.

A good system will always cycle off and on some.
Or a bad low switch or wiring can cycle it off and on.

After adding a little R-134a watch the high side for going over 250-275 .
And see if low side comes up a little.

Post back

Also check vent tempt and post back vent temptures.
__________________
Remember proper testing gives us the answer to many problems.
MT
MT-2500 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-11-2009, 09:15 AM   #9
TallyMatt
AF Newbie
Thread starter
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Tallahassee, Florida
Posts: 7
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Re: 2000 S-10 4.3L V6 AC Replacement Questions

Did not add any additional R134a

Removed jumper paperclip and reattached pigtail to switch.... ran for under 60 seconds and cut out.... wiggled the pigtail and compressor came right back on.....

While running, low = 32psi, high = 280psi, ambient temp 81, RH = 79%

Plenty of good moister on accumulator and one hose. Air in cabin vents super cold.... to the point of creating moisture around the vents themselves (had windows rolled down and RH is 79% -- a little humid)

Unfortunately, don't have a decent therm.... (just a meat therm)...
TallyMatt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-11-2009, 09:19 AM   #10
j cAT
AF Fanatic
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: EVERETT, Massachusetts
Posts: 10,847
Thanks: 6
Thanked 431 Times in 430 Posts
Re: Bad low pressure switch? How do I calculate correct pressures?

Quote:
Originally Posted by TallyMatt View Post
OK, I've searched high and low (no pun intended) for a decent chart that will tell me what reasonable high and low side pressures should be, in conjunction with ambient temp. and Relative Humidity.

I'm in Florida and temps are usually 90 - 95 during the day and RH is anywhere from 85 to 99.

I got everything (compressor, evap., condenser, orifice and accumulator) reinstalled, added PAG150, vaccumed the system, added 2 12oz cans of R134 w/dye, no visible leaks via dark night and a black light. System ran great for a few hours, then comp. clutch disengaged. I gently shook the low-pressure pigtail connector that's plugged into the low-switch and then the cluctch engaged again, then disengaged... it keeps shutting off at random intervals, but not like the cycling that was occurring on my last compressor when I had a leak... this is different....

I jumpered the low-side pigtail with a paper clip in order to get the compressor to come and stay on and then connected my gauges. Low side press. was just above 25psi and high was under 200psi ( I think -- it was a few hours ago ), ambient temp was about 84..... Could it be a bad low-pressure switch -- or does it sound more like a leak? How do I properly troubleshoot this? I've checked for dye and cannot find any anywhere.... after running the system for about 4 hours.

While jumpered, compressor "seemed" to work fine and temp in vents in the cabin were ice cold.....


the low side pressure switch is defective,,,,my experience in this switch is 5-7psi it will open causing the compressor to stop...

because when you move the connector it will cut out ,,,I would jumper the connector with it removed from the switch...then with the a/c on measure the resistance of the switch ...use clips to the switch pins...see if the switch is the problem or the connector/wire at the connector

this switch or connector failure is common....
j cAT is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-11-2009, 09:26 AM   #11
TallyMatt
AF Newbie
Thread starter
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Tallahassee, Florida
Posts: 7
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Re: 2000 S-10 4.3L V6 AC Replacement Questions

OK, I'm not clear on the steps.... I gather that I need to test BOTH the pigtail itself AND the switch screwed into the accumulator....

Remove the pigtail... and then do what with it (to test it)?



Test the switch how?


All I have is a stanard digital voltmeter..... Do I test in Omhs?
TallyMatt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-11-2009, 07:30 PM   #12
j cAT
AF Fanatic
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: EVERETT, Massachusetts
Posts: 10,847
Thanks: 6
Thanked 431 Times in 430 Posts
Re: 2000 S-10 4.3L V6 AC Replacement Questions

Quote:
Originally Posted by TallyMatt View Post
OK, I'm not clear on the steps.... I gather that I need to test BOTH the pigtail itself AND the switch screwed into the accumulator....

Remove the pigtail... and then do what with it (to test it)?



Test the switch how?


All I have is a stanard digital voltmeter..... Do I test in Omhs?

remove the connector ,,,then short out the connector, then start engine , a/c on , fan on max , a/c on max, then with pressure gauge hooked up to low side monitor pressure,, and with ohm meter measure for zero ohms.at the pressure switch...then move switch connections to see if the resistance jumps....if this is solid zero ohms then with connector shorted flex connector and wires to see if the a/c compressor drops out...
j cAT is offline   Reply With Quote
 
Reply

POST REPLY TO THIS THREAD


Bookmarks

Tags
2000, air, compressor, s10, vacuum
Go Back   Automotive Forums .com Car Chat > Chevrolet > S-10

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 04:32 PM.

Community Participation Guidelines | How to use your User Control Panel

Powered by: vBulletin | Copyright Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
 
 
no new posts