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Car Audio Do you live in your car? Then you need to be able to listen to some high-quality music. |
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11-12-2004, 01:56 AM | #46 | |
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Haha I know, I was just messin with you. 1 15" in a ported with a nice amp(like Cadence) should sound nice, and be loud. I went for spl so mine gets hella loud, but only sounds marginal sq wise.
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Sub: 1 15" Digital Designs 9500 in a slot ported box with 6 cubes Sub Amp: Autotek MX-3000.1 Component Amp: 300 watt Pioneer Headunit: Alpine CDA-9831 Speakers: 5.25 Sony's and 6x9 Pioneer's(Both of which need to be replaced so give me some suggestions) Optima Yellowtop battery Lanzar 5 farad Optifree capacitor |
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11-12-2004, 02:07 AM | #47 | |
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Oh yeah, head units. I plan on selling my DEH-P5600MP for a new head unit.
So the question remains, which head unit would you recommend to me? Pioneer DEH-P960MP Pioneer DEH-P860MP
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UNOFFICAL AUDIO BRAND RATINGS My life is composed of the worst luck known to man. Disclaimer: My knowledge of car audio is questionable, but it usually sounds great to me. '98 Grand Prix GT 4Dr '06 XXX 12" Possibly a Cadence ZRS-10 Pioneer DEH-5500MP |
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11-12-2004, 10:17 AM | #48 | ||
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Re: Re: Re: Which of these subs would you get?
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11-12-2004, 11:19 AM | #49 | |
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Re: Which of these subs would you get?
remember, his truck is probably bigger so the engine and accessories will draw more current. Car manufacturers didn't make an alternator just for car audio you know.
Another thing is that the alternator does not always put out the same mount of power. The power it makes varies with the engine RPM. Most of the stock alternator won't make power until higher RPM. If your friend has a truck that makes a good load of low end power, chances are that it doesn't need to rev as high as a 4 cyl. engine to get power. And if the engine does not reach high enough RPM, then the alternator will not make maximum. Now i'm not telling him to run his car at 4k RPM everywhere he goes. lol. get rid of the cap, it's making things worse than helping it. You're putting an extra load on the alternator. How old is your friend's battery? How loud does he turn on ? Having an amp capable of 1000w does not always mean its putting out that much. Some people (like me) can claim to have a 1000w amp and not have a problem with electrical power, but in reality, my sub will only see about 300w at most if i'm lucky since I don't blast my music around.
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11-12-2004, 05:07 PM | #50 | |
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Re: Which of these subs would you get?
batterys two years old, he has a 91 f 150.. he only has his music up about 1/4 of the way and his amp up about 3/4 of the way and hes blowin 80 amp fuses. im sure his amps only puttin otu like 900 watts of so.. nto the 1000 it claims.. btu its an RF so it cant be all that overrated. even still.. his voltage guage should be goin crazy with such low volume if people can run 1500 watts before their guages bottom out.
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11-12-2004, 08:20 PM | #51 | ||
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Re: Re: Re: Which of these subs would you get?
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11-12-2004, 11:27 PM | #52 | |
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Re: Which of these subs would you get?
I didn't bring it up because I'm not a fan of DD
The 9500 won't be any louder than the XXX unless he steps up the power a TON, and no the SQ is not better. I really don't know where you're coming up with this stuff, the 9515 only has a 16mm xmax (compared to the XXX's 32mm), the thing with the 9515 is it has close to a 75mm xmech (not xmax!). Yes it can physically move that far if you feed it 4-5kw, but it will sound like royal ass doing it, and you will thermal the coil if you keep it up for any longer than a short burp. Also the 9515 has one of the peakiest BL curves in the history of mankind, you would have to be 100% blind in order to think it was anywhere close to flat. It's an SPL sub that doesn't sound as bad on music as the MT, I wouldn't consider it anything more if I were you.
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'01 Black Sentra SE Weapon-R intake, HS header, HKS catback, ES motor mounts, B&M short shifter, Tein coilovers Alpine 9835, Adire Koda 6.1, Adire Brahma 15, Arc 2100cxl, Linear Power 2.2hv, Cadence ZRS-8 '05 Silver WRX STi Injen SES Downpipe, HKS Carbon-Ti catback, Cobb Stage 2 Tune, TiC Super Shifter, TiC Klunk Killer, Tein springs, Nitto NT555R Drag Radials |
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11-13-2004, 04:17 AM | #53 | ||
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Re: Re: Re: Re: Which of these subs would you get?
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UNOFFICAL AUDIO BRAND RATINGS My life is composed of the worst luck known to man. Disclaimer: My knowledge of car audio is questionable, but it usually sounds great to me. '98 Grand Prix GT 4Dr '06 XXX 12" Possibly a Cadence ZRS-10 Pioneer DEH-5500MP |
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11-13-2004, 04:27 AM | #54 | |
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Gah, I'm flip flopping between the USA 2000X and the Cadence ZRS-8.
Help me make my decision. Will the USA 2000X make enough of a difference to justify paying $300+ more?
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UNOFFICAL AUDIO BRAND RATINGS My life is composed of the worst luck known to man. Disclaimer: My knowledge of car audio is questionable, but it usually sounds great to me. '98 Grand Prix GT 4Dr '06 XXX 12" Possibly a Cadence ZRS-10 Pioneer DEH-5500MP |
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11-13-2004, 07:57 AM | #55 | |
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Re: Which of these subs would you get?
SR20 have you ever even heard a 9515 in an SQ set up? ive heard 3 and the responce is very flat at low and high volumes. the 9500 isnt DD's SPL woofer. DD's only SPL woofer is 9900 which cost twice that of the 9500. but even the 9900 has good flat responce because it is a very flexible woofer and needs to be able to play at the resonant frequincy of whatever vehicle it is chosen to play in. the only reason DD markets to SPL is because that is all kids who also buy mainstream crap will notice DD. it is the same as JL, but DD doesnt waste their time on marketing ploy's like JL does and therefore saves cash and their woofers dont cost more. all higher end DD woofers are hand made and precision built. as apposed to RE who has theirs flued and asembled by machien. i think you need to show more respect to DD if all you have heard of DD are SPL enclosures and amps in every day drivers...
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11-13-2004, 11:46 AM | #56 | |
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Re: Which of these subs would you get?
DD is not the same as JL, not in any way
yes I have heard the 9500 in SQL setups and they get very loud, but the SQ could be better. Like I said before they are an SPL sub that sounds decent on music. They're for an SPL competitor who wants to be able to listen to their system every day without switching out the sub and have it still sound decent. The Brahma, XXX, w7, etc are the opposite, they're for someone who wants the ultimate in SQ, but they want to be able to do decent if they were to enter an SPL competition too. I would consider DD's lower lines similar to RE's lower lines as far as performance, goals, price, etc go, but when you get to the XXX and the 9500, they really split apart.
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'01 Black Sentra SE Weapon-R intake, HS header, HKS catback, ES motor mounts, B&M short shifter, Tein coilovers Alpine 9835, Adire Koda 6.1, Adire Brahma 15, Arc 2100cxl, Linear Power 2.2hv, Cadence ZRS-8 '05 Silver WRX STi Injen SES Downpipe, HKS Carbon-Ti catback, Cobb Stage 2 Tune, TiC Super Shifter, TiC Klunk Killer, Tein springs, Nitto NT555R Drag Radials |
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11-13-2004, 11:50 AM | #57 | ||
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Re: Which of these subs would you get?
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One thing to consider is the 2000X is a class a/b amp, some say that class a/b will have better control over the sub than a class d due to their output stages, and they think that a/b sounds better on subs. I'm not sure how much truth that holds, but the other side of the argument is class a/b isn't nearly as efficient as class d. The 2000X will probably be about 50-60% efficient, while the ZRS-8 will be closer to 80-90%. So if each amp was putting out 1500rms, the ZRS-8 would have to draw around 130 amps, and the 2000X would have to draw around 200 amps.
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'01 Black Sentra SE Weapon-R intake, HS header, HKS catback, ES motor mounts, B&M short shifter, Tein coilovers Alpine 9835, Adire Koda 6.1, Adire Brahma 15, Arc 2100cxl, Linear Power 2.2hv, Cadence ZRS-8 '05 Silver WRX STi Injen SES Downpipe, HKS Carbon-Ti catback, Cobb Stage 2 Tune, TiC Super Shifter, TiC Klunk Killer, Tein springs, Nitto NT555R Drag Radials |
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11-13-2004, 12:52 PM | #58 | |||||||||||
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Re: Re: Re: Re: Which of these subs would you get?
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IMO, a 3.5 cubes box would be better than 5 cubes. a ported box, unlike a sealed box, will give you more peaks when you increase the volume. Sealed box do the opposite, i gives you a smoother response. 5.0 cubes would be where you would more SPL than SQ. Quote:
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[quote] ive heard 3 and the responce is very flat at low and high volumes. [quote]how are you able to tell if the response was flat with your ears? I personally can't, at least not at high volume anyways. That is unless, you got a built in RTA in your ears. lol. I am unfortunate to not have that. Quote:
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I have respect for DD, hence why I bought my pair of DD3515 3 years ago. lol. Sounded nice, but it had to go because I was looking for better sound reproduction. I'll put on my flaming suit now
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11-13-2004, 02:11 PM | #59 | ||||||||||
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Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Which of these subs would you get?
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11-13-2004, 03:25 PM | #60 | |||||||
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Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Which of these subs would you get?
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And again you still don't know what XBL^2 or DMA are, they're Adire's and JL's answers to flat-BL. Both accomplish the exact same thing, just through different methods. Don't really know what that THD comment is about, BL non-linearities are a form of distortion, one of the main forms, so by reducing them you reduce the distortion, which reduces the THD. Both XBL^2 and DMA do this..... Quote:
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'01 Black Sentra SE Weapon-R intake, HS header, HKS catback, ES motor mounts, B&M short shifter, Tein coilovers Alpine 9835, Adire Koda 6.1, Adire Brahma 15, Arc 2100cxl, Linear Power 2.2hv, Cadence ZRS-8 '05 Silver WRX STi Injen SES Downpipe, HKS Carbon-Ti catback, Cobb Stage 2 Tune, TiC Super Shifter, TiC Klunk Killer, Tein springs, Nitto NT555R Drag Radials |
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