2002 4x4 Clicking from LF Wheel When Turning

[Ol'Jim]

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My 02 Silverado 4x4 Crew Cab 6.0 has begun to make a clicking noise when I am driving at low speed, and making any kind of turn to the right.
This is in 2 wheel drive. No noise when driving straight. If I am driving through the neighborhood , (say, 20-25 mph), and the road curves gently to the right, I can hear an occasional/intermittent click noise, which sounds like it is coming from the LF wheel. It might give a single click every half second or so, sometimes 2 or 3 quick clicks, then silent for a second or 2, then a few more. If it is more heavily loaded, such as sharper turn, or more speed while turning, it is significantly worse, (more frequent clicks, almost constant).
Likewise, if I am at low speed, and turning more sharply, (such as a 90* right turn at an intersection, from a stop), it is almost constant repeat clicking until the wheel is straightened out.
I am guessing it is possibly a u-joint on the left side half-shaft (or whatever it is called), that connects the transfer case to the LF hub? Almost sounds like needle bearings beginning to fail, is the best way I can think of to describe the sound. Even though I am in 2wd, the hubs do not unlock, so the front axles are always turning.
Hoping it is not front hub bearing going bad. I just got reassigned back to Dallas, and I will be driving the truck 800 miles to get there this weekend. I have maintained the truck very well, with the exception of having never even really looked at the front driveline components. (That ignorance could be haunting me now, or maybe just stuff that has worn out).
I only use the 4 wheel drive about 6-10 times per year, usually only for a mile or so to get to maintained roads. Never in 4x4 on dry roads, I switch back to 2WD as soon as possible.
Thanks in advance for any advice or experience you can share.
Any ideas on the cause of this noise, and what I am looking at (replacement parts) in order to repair it?

[777stickman]

From your post it sure sounds like a CV joint. 1st thing to check for is oil/lube moisture around the outer and inner CV joint rubber covers. If there is wetness there is an issue. If they're dry doesn't mean there are no issues.

[j cAT]

the clicking on turns at slow speed would be the CV joints those are connected to the front wheel hubs from the front diff. these must be straight so they do not wear out . if your vehicle has been lifted or perhaps is too low these CV joints are not straight so they then wear creating the clicking . check for the boots for damage if leaking grease then there bad. on axles and U joints these cause vibrations very slight vibs then as they get worse they will tweet under load starting from a stop. then when they get real bad you will get clunking this is when the axles can fall out. U joints are tricky the end caps will seize on the joint . you can check them and see no wear or stains . this is when they create vibs. when they tweet you should see some rust stains on the end cap seal. when the end cap needle bearings breakdown this is when you will see the u joint have some play in it. best buy re-built CV axles with a warranty ... also if not straight adjust vehicle height so they are when done.

4WD has little effect on the CV. its all about the angle any angle then they wear.

true these are not a problem with these vehicles so not much on the forums about CV.

[Ol'Jim]

Thanks guys. No visible oil or moisture on the boots, but have driven through some serious snow, slush, rain & it is possible they leaked until empty then the lubricant got washed off. Truck is standard height, HD2500, with stock tire size (LT245/75x16, I believe). But it does have 245,000 miles on it. Weather forecast looks pretty good for this weekend, so hopefully the shaft won't fall out on my drive from Colorado to Texas. No clunking yet, no squeaks or squealing, just clicking. Will get into there when I get down home. Thanks again, -Jim.

[j cAT]

Originally Posted by Ol'Jim

Thanks guys. No visible oil or moisture on the boots, but have driven through some serious snow, slush, rain & it is possible they leaked until empty then the lubricant got washed off. Truck is standard height, HD2500, with stock tire size (LT245/75x16, I believe). But it does have 245,000 miles on it. Weather forecast looks pretty good for this weekend, so hopefully the shaft won't fall out on my drive from Colorado to Texas. No clunking yet, no squeaks or squealing, just clicking. Will get into there when I get down home. Thanks again, -Jim.

jack up the front end both wheels put blocks under the control arms so the axle is straight see whats going on rotate wheels etc.. if the boots are good I do know some have opened up the boot and pumped in grease. this does work if its just a lack of grease. if the boot is broken then they must be replaced. not too hard to remove and put back that clamp videos on this . post back how it went 250K sounds good . GM new trucks will never go this far.

[Ol'Jim]

I did make it back to TX ok, pulling a 28' Enclosed trailer that weighed over 10,000#.
The noise is a bit worse now, I just picked up a new CV shaft assy from O'Reilly for $61. Not bad, I don't know how they can sell a completely new unit for that price. Obviously they are all made in China nowadays, but that is a big heavy piece, with a lot of machining involved, and the u-joints, boots, clamps, lithium grease, etc.
Will get it replaced this weekend and report back. Thanks guys.

[Ol'Jim]

Wanted to post a follow-up on this deal. The replacement job went well, there are a couple decent videos available on the procedure. A couple notes for others who may run into this later on:
1. Almost nobody sells replacement u-joints/CV joints anymore, and it really would make no sense to go through all the extra work to change them, when you can buy a new, lifetime warranty CV Axle assembly for under $70.
2. The R&R procedure isn't very difficult, and requires no super-special tools, other than an impact gun, metric impact socket set, floor jack & stands, although I had to buy a 35mm and 36mm 1/2" drive sockets for $10.99 each, (my OEM unit had a 35mm hub nut, and the replacement assy came with a new 36mm nut). The counterman at the parts store did say he would let me return them for refund after the job, but I may keep 'em since I am guessing the Right side unit will probably wear out soon, with such high miles on.
3. Two of the 3 videos I watched said to remove the swaybar end link, to provide clearance to get the old axle out, and new one in. One of them showed the guy trying to drive the old link out with a hammer, (very little room to get any force on it that way), then he used a sawzall to cut the end link, and drive out the nub. Both vids showed them installing new end links, and I didn't have one on hand. The 3rd video, guy removed the shock absorber instead, and that seemed more appealing to me, so I took that route. I highly recommend it, although I can say that you MUST have an impact gun to do this job. The upper shock nut is 15mm, and required a deep socket, and the impact gun with an extension to remove it from under the hood, as the upper shock body would spin when trying to remove the nut with a wrench or ratchet. That shock body/cover is plastic, so you can't try to hold it with channel lock pliers. Soak the long threaded top stud of the shock with some penetrating oil before you attempt to loosen it. I also used the impact to reinstall the nut, but do the final tightening after you get things back together and truck on on the ground, as that will compress the shock a bit and make it much easier. (Reinstall the shock while truck is in the air and the suspension is hanging free, and get the top nut started, then do the tightening after everything else is done & truck back on the ground).
4. Getting the old assembly out, and installing the new one, requires a bit of patience, as you must compress the spring-loaded assy while maneuvering it around, in order to get the splined axle end out of the hub, and to put the new one into place. It is a heavy unit, so be prepared to handle this, or get a helper. (I am 57, and had no problem doing it on my own, although I could feel it the next morning, ha).
5. It is difficult to loosen the 6 15mm bolts on the inner flange, while you are also trying to also hold a large screwdriver/pry-bar/breaker bar between the wheel studs, to keep the axle from rotating. My metric impact sockets are short, so I was able to get my impact gun in position to loosen the inner bolts without holding the hub.

All in all, you will save $150-250 or more by doing this yourself, vs taking your truck to a shop. Even working carefully/slowly, it can be easily done in 2-3 hours or less. Just use common sense and a safety-first approach, since it does involve working under a truck on jack stands.

[j cAT]

what did you torque the hub nut to ? it is important the hub nut is torqued to spec wheel on the ground. also to air gun on the hub nut [not good] looks like you did not remove the hub assy .

[Ol'Jim]

I snugged the hub nut while it was in the air, then torqued it to 155 Ft/Lb after it was back on the ground. (I believe spec is 160, but my tq wrench only goes up to 155). Did not impact the hub nut on, but I did use it to remove the old one.
Torqued the inner axle flange bolts to 60 Ft/Lb, in a crossing pattern.
You are correct, I did not remove the hub.

[j cAT]

Originally Posted by Ol'Jim

I snugged the hub nut while it was in the air, then torqued it to 155 Ft/Lb after it was back on the ground. (I believe spec is 160, but my tq wrench only goes up to 155). Did not impact the hub nut on, but I did use it to remove the old one.
Torqued the inner axle flange bolts to 60 Ft/Lb, in a crossing pattern.
You are correct, I did not remove the hub.

good you did not tighten the hub nut with air gun.. many have done that and it gets damaged. what I do is with wheel on the ground loosen the hub nut . then when in the air lock up the rotor and remove nut .. '' the torque spec is 157 or 153 ft lbs I say this because it is in the manual these two specs . when I grease the front hubs by removing the speed sensor , I also re-torque the hub nut at this time , many have used this trick to prevent hub failure.. you saved a good amount doing this your self .