Which Engine for Forced Induction??

[eckoman_pdx]

Originally Posted by Miataracer

good lord... trying to read this whole post has given me a headache!

You must mean whole thread...the last 3 posts by me and PWMAN were pretty short, lol.

[Jermonsta]

isn't the hss pretty good for FI after it's built?

[Thepeug]

Hss?

[Jermonsta]

H22, my bad

[PunkAlex]

uhhh...scattered throughtout this thread there are numerous places saying "the h22 isnt good for boost because it has weak cylinder walls"

[S|L3NoZ]

Just wanted to give credit to somebody to show that you can trust him.... With the help of eckoman_pdx, I builded an entire B18B1 Turbo LS/Vtec making about 400HP+ on my Acura Integra 99. (I wonder if he remembers me ) The engine's running great.... So, you can trust this guy and any other peeps that agree with him.... Peace

[Jermonsta]

i didn't read the whole thread, will do, but del posted those pics of a 1000hp H22, so it seem 300 + wouldn't be hard to do on a regular basis

[eckoman_pdx]

Originally Posted by S|L3NoZ

Just wanted to give credit to somebody to show that you can trust him.... With the help of eckoman_pdx, I builded an entire B18B1 Turbo LS/Vtec making about 400HP+ on my Acura Integra 99. (I wonder if he remembers me ) The engine's running great.... So, you can trust this guy and any other peeps that agree with him.... Peace

Hey, I remember you!!! I'm glad to heard back about how it turned out!!! I'm also glad to see you got the motor built and boosted correctly. I'm glad it all worked out for you. Thanks bunchs for remembering my help and mentioning it. It's always nice to receive props when they are desevered. I appericate it. Like I say, I am always glad to help. Hit me up with a PM, I'd love to hear more about the motor and set-up.

Jermonsta, there is no way a 1000hp motor is streetable, period. 300HP out of an h22 is going to require enough boost it will tear the motor up. You will end up having to fully build and re-sleeve the motor to properly acheive that output. Re-sleeving it should help solve the weak/thin cylinder issues, since they are being esstianlly replaced. However, it's not cheap to do, but if you are serious about boosting an H22 to that power level, it's a must.

[Jermonsta]

LOL, dude, i know 1000 horses is not streetable!!!
can you imagine?? you'd have to have a new engine put in daily!!
it would be great tho!!!
dang 1000 hp on the street.......not gonna happen.
i'm hoping for above 300, and i do plan on a FULL rebuild of the engine, darton sleeves prolly, anyone know the cost of a rebuild/sleeve job?

[Sulsa]

About $1k-$1.2k just to get a b18 sleeved. I assume an H22 would be about the same.


P.S. I like rice.

[eckoman_pdx]

Originally Posted by Jermonsta

LOL, dude, i know 1000 horses is not streetable!!!
can you imagine?? you'd have to have a new engine put in daily!!
it would be great tho!!!
dang 1000 hp on the street.......not gonna happen.
i'm hoping for above 300, and i do plan on a FULL rebuild of the engine, darton sleeves prolly, anyone know the cost of a rebuild/sleeve job?

Off the top of my head, about $1,000-$1,400 for a re-sleeve only (depending on what company you go with). Around $3500 maybe for a build bottom end (includes re-sleeving), and $2500 for the headwork. So maybe $5,000-$6,000 total. Again, these are just off the top of my head estimates, but it's a rough idea of cost. It's by no means cheap to build a motor.

[Jermonsta]

dang, no it isn't, unless you can do it yourself...........................*wonders how much those tools cost

[eckoman_pdx]

Originally Posted by Jermonsta

dang, no it isn't, unless you can do it yourself...........................*wonders how much those tools cost

Even if you know how do some of the work, I recommend you leave the porting and polishing to a qaulity head porter. Make sure to check around, ask for references. Also, with re-sleeving, I recommend either having a machine shop the manufactorer recommends do the work or actully send the shortblock to the manufactorer to be re-sleeve. AEBS makes very very good sleeves, so check them out. I perfer the way they fit and seal theirs over other brands (Darton, Golden Eagle). Darton isn't bad, but I recommend AEBS for sleeves, if you are serious. AEBS fits their sleeves with a 2000 interference fit into the block. It should run $1200-1400 to buy and have them install the sleeves (it's about $495 or so if you want to buy the sleeves and have your own machine shop do it, though I don't recommend this unless they actually know what they are doing.

[DeleriousZ]

considering all that talk about the LS and GSR blocks... would it be worth it to completely rebuild (except sleeving) a GSR or the LS block... which would put out better numbers with lower compression (9.0ish about) at around 15 psi? i'm looking to do a rebuild... would it just be easier to get an aftermarket block?

[PWMAN]

Originally Posted by Delerious93integra

considering all that talk about the LS and GSR blocks... would it be worth it to completely rebuild (except sleeving) a GSR or the LS block... which would put out better numbers with lower compression (9.0ish about) at around 15 psi? i'm looking to do a rebuild... would it just be easier to get an aftermarket block?

If you rebuilt the engine the GSR (b18C1) would be better. The whole point was stock for the LS is a better choice-cheaper all around because it costs less to buy AND you don't have to spend insane money on engine management because of the high compression ratio. The LS engine can run 12 PSI safely on the internals on pump gas, it could go more on pump gas but the internals will not handle it. 12 PSI is a VERY safe number, I've seen 14 and 15 PSI boosted on stock internals for months on end-the guy with 15 PSI eventually cracked the sleeve though. The GSR can only boost 8, not because of the internals but because of the high compression ratio. The internals of the GSR are actually stouter, plus the oil squirters are a must for high boosted applications which the LS block doesn't have. You have to watch close for detonation on the GSR though, the LS boosting 12 isn't even close to detonation. But always remember there is more than just lack of octane that cause detonation, you must have enough fuel to be put in, also too much advance in your timing will cause detonation too.

If you are rebuilding PLEASE resleeve the block. You will kick yourself in the ass later if you don't splurge and do it now. If you don't do it you are limited to about 14 PSI-trust me once you get boosting you will want more and more. So do a rebuild with either DART or Golden eagle sleeves, JE or Wiseco pistons, crower or eagle rods, stock crank is sufficient. The stock block can handle lots of power, it's just the sleeves that don't hold up. Don't buy aftermarket, you only need it if you are planning insane numbers like 400+ WHP.
9:1 is a perfect compression ratio.