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Old 03-27-2002, 10:17 PM   #1
PhydeauX
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Looking for a DCOE manifold for a b16a

Any one know of any manifolds to fit a pair of dcoe carbs to a b16a engine. I'm trying to mount a pair of dcoe carbs to my a20a. I know that I can modify a b18a manifold to fit, but the only manifold I can find for the b18a is from twm for $500. Thats a bit pricey for this type of manifod, I believe that its due to the water jacket. I have been told that a b16a manifold will go onto a b18a with little modification, so I can get it to go onto my a20a no problem. I'm surprised that I havent yet been able to find a manifold for the b16a, anyone know of one?

andy
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Old 03-28-2002, 05:47 PM   #2
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Hmmm damn tricky one that.

I have heard of them, and seen a few pics, but have no idea where they came from.

However simply due to the unpopularity of putting Carbs on a B16a they could be quite hard to find.

Have you tried a manifold from an old B20a from an old Prelude?
Might be very similar? I was compareing a mates Si lude with my car the other day, and things like the throttle body look like they could be easily swaped. (same bolt pattern, but differnt TPS etc)

Otherwise you might have to find someone who can make you a custom one? or even make your own?
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Old 03-28-2002, 05:52 PM   #3
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LOL Looking at your sig, I just realised what a Chevy Nova is!! Its a bloody Toyota Corolla.

We hear about what a crappy car the Nova is thanks to movies and TV, but since they were never sold out side the US I'v never actualy seen one. However it turns out several friends own one!!

The 4agze is a common swap for them down this way as well. Altough they go better in the old AE86 shape. :smoker2:
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Old 03-28-2002, 05:57 PM   #4
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Hahahahaha... it is a Corrolla I'd always wondered what the hell they were too
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Old 03-28-2002, 10:00 PM   #5
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The b20a would be a good choice, if it was the version in the gen2 (87 or earlier) prelude. The laters ones tip the wrong way. But I haven't seen a manifold for one of them either. I found a place in england called jenvy that lists a manafold for a b16 vtec. I'll guess thats a b16a, I don't really know much about b series motors. I sent them an email inquireing about it. If anyone happens to know which manifolds can be swaped onto a b16a or b18a I'd love to know.

Yeah a nova is a corolla, add a gm delco stereo system (sucks) and some cosmetic changes and its a nova. Mine has the suspension bits from an fx-16gts swaped on it, and just recently got some stuff from whiteline in aus, new front sway bar, urathane bushes, and front and rear strut tie bars. The 4agze isnt quite running yet, it has some major computer problems, so I'm replaceing it with probalby a tecII when it starts to get warmer. I would have loved to start with an ae86, but I got that car for free, the best way to start a project =). The motor is built with a pair of hk$ 272 cams and an over drive blower pully and mated to an e51 trans taken from a jdm corolla levin gtz (I couldn't find on fited with the factory lsd untill after i bought this one). So it hopefully should still go in the ae82 corolla, ahem I mean nova.

Sorry that doesn't really belong on a honda tech board, but I love to talk about that car.

andy
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Old 04-04-2002, 07:04 PM   #6
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I finally found the infamous b16a dcoe manifold. A guy in the philippines is selling me a used custom fabed one. What ever works right. I'd rather hack this one up then a brand new $500 b18a one anyway. A question for the experts. This looks like a b16a flange right.


The a few more pics can be found here. Its a bit dirty, but he's letting it go for us$100 and its the only one I have been able to find, so I'm jumping on it.

andy
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Old 04-04-2002, 07:07 PM   #7
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For $100 I would take it, nothing a wire brush and simple green and a sanding and fresh high temp paint cant fix!
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Old 04-05-2002, 02:00 AM   #8
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It looks a bit rough, but for that price who cares!
and its nothing a dremal tool or some work with a file can't fix.


About the 4agze, yeah should be an easy almost bolt into the AE82.
Just remember you need to convert the whole car to fuel injection as well. and swap in enoug of the loom to run the car.
Any reason why the stock ECU won't work? It should, even with the cams and boost pully.
Running an aftermarket one sounds like more trouble than its worth.

check out www.twincharger.com for good info on swaping.
as well as www.mr2.org for heaps of 4a stuff.

and theres some threads in the Corrola forum as well.
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Old 04-05-2002, 12:07 PM   #9
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Yeah, I don't mind cleaning it up, hell the whole car really needs cleaning up.

The gze was a pretty much bolt in, its been sitting in the car for about 2 years now. I have already converted to efi with a cutom tank pickup and mallory comp efi pump and 10mm fuel lines send and return. The only problem I ran into in getting the motor in is the e51 trans I used has a bigger diff houseing then the c52 that was in there. I had to move the back mount around and it touchers the steering rack. The stock ecu should have worked fine. There is something possesd about the car. It gives spark but no injector signal, and to help even further it doesnt throw any codes. I've try 2 computers on it, one came with the motor (don't know if it works, and the second was known to work when I got it). I was able to determine with alot of time and an oscolloscope that it was the IGF signal from the ignitor causeing the problem. A new $350 ignitor from toyota didn't help. I checked all the wireing (the mr2's engine harness containes 90% of all the efi components, I only had to hook up the power sources to it and little things like that), all the grounds, replaced just about everything that has to do with the injection system, never found a thing. I had been trouble shooting the system for almost a year, finally got sick of it and decided that I'm going for an aftermarket system, it cant be worse then this. I've been on the toyota-mods.org mailing list for almost 3 years now, lots of expierenced people on there and I seem to have stumped them all with this one, I also stumped the club4ag technical forums too. Its probalby something simple, but I can't find it, and neither can any one I have even let look at the thing. I probaby need to call in an excorcist. While I'm at it I've been converting the motor to use a tvis manifold from an early 4age, the mr2 manifold isn't known for good flow and it interferes with my hood.

Right now I'm putting that project on hold to build this accord (carburators, they are so much easier to trouble shoot) so I have something I can take to the track while I finish up that car. Spending that much time trouble shooting and not being that much closer then when you start really does something to the old self esteem

andy
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Old 04-05-2002, 08:16 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally posted by PhydeauX
While I'm at it I've been converting the motor to use a tvis manifold from an early 4age, the mr2 manifold isn't known for good flow and it interferes with my hood.

MAte!!!
I need to know about this!
Im working on getting a 4agze into a kit car, but thanks to the location of the steering rack I have use a RWD 4age inlet manifold with a differnt TB on it, and mount the blower on the other side of the engine. sounds like a lot of work, but I can get a custom mount for the SC made pretty easily.
Only problem is i want to use the standard ECU, so it means having an inlet for N/A air, and an inlet for S/C air.
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Old 04-06-2002, 01:25 AM   #11
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Well heres what I have been planning to do. I'm keeping the s/c on the inlet side of the motor in about the stock location, about 4cm further down and 3cm farther out to clear the manifold. For efficiency reasonts I am keeping with the draw through setup like it had in the oem setup. You can go blow through, but that would mean the blower is always pumping at max pressure, and sapping enough power from the crank to do so. I'm replacing the throttle body on the tvis intake with just a strait pipe and haveing a flange to mount a tb welded to the inlet pipe of the blower. For simplicity I am going to have the s/c run full time instead of ecu controlled like it was in the oem setup. If i wanted to keep that I would have to rig up a bypass valve from behind the tb to the outlet of the s/c, there is really no loss/gain from not haveing it so I wont bother. As far as running it with a stock ecu the tvis manifold is a bit more efficient then the stock gze is so if you have a map based computer you might run into some problems. You'll probably see slightly less manifold pressure with n/a manifold but the same amount of air will be flowing though. The afm based gze computer should compensate fine, but the map based might be too lean in the fuel map. You might find you'll have to up the fuel pressure, fool it into thinking the air is cooler, or something to richen it up when its in openloop.

Oh here are some shots of it in mock up. Everything is just loose on there right now and s/c is proped in with a piece of wood, but thats how it will eventually look. Wont apply too much to you cause this is a front drive application, but should give the general idea. I painted the s/c blue, don't ask me why, there's a little rice in all of us. So the blue stuff is the sc makes it easier to see. The larger pipe that has a piece of black ruber coupling on it still is the inlet, I'm going to cut it so its at a 45° angle and have a tb flange mounted to it, probably the stock gze tb since it uses a solenoid instead of that stupid wax pellet to control the idle (the #1 cause of bad idles in early 4ag motors). Then the tb will be replaced with a pipe matching the diameter of the s/c outlet pipe. I'll probalby run it with no intercooler for a bit, untill I can get my hands on a jap or maybe aus spec front bumper (more air will flow through that for a front mount cooler then the us spec).


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