2000 Silouette. Ok Campers, who's changed their spark plugs ?

sdanville · 05-07-2004, 07:04 AM

I read the engine has to be tilted to replace the rear plugs?
I bought my plugs last year. Not prepared to take off the engine mounts. I'd be willing to grind down a socket. Anyone here change their own plugs ?
3.4 V6 2000 Silouette

Bill V · 05-07-2004, 10:41 PM

The engine must be pulled forward (after removing the front dog-bone mounts). Be prepared for back, neck, and arm pain as well as misc. cuts and abrasions...

sdanville · 05-08-2004, 07:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bill V

The engine must be pulled forward (after removing the front dog-bone mounts). Be prepared for back, neck, and arm pain as well as misc. cuts and abrasions...

Pulled forward ? So i need a ceiling Beam, chain, pully and a couple fat buddies to pull ?

bottomtech · 05-21-2004, 12:33 PM

The rear plugs can be accessed from underneath, if you reach up past the exhaust pipe on either side.

sdanville · 08-21-2004, 08:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bottomtech

The rear plugs can be accessed from underneath, if you reach up past the exhaust pipe on either side.

Now thats what forums are for.
Some guys are pulling their engines and your telling me I just have to jack it up and go from the back.

THANK YOU ! ! !

sdanville@grar.com

GMMerlin · 08-22-2004, 10:23 AM

There are a couple ways to do this job..you can loosen the front "dog bone" mounts and shift the engine forward (all you are doing is tilting the engine no removing it) or you can go in from underneath.
BEWARE...you may find it diffcult to remove the plug wires from the plugs..twist them untill they loosen then remove the boot from the plug.

shaneland · 09-15-2004, 06:09 PM

just changed my plugs yesterday.

I reach in from the top over the TBI and down the back. I have changed them from underneath as well. Underneath is easier as you can see what your doing.

Make sure you secure the wires as the often lay on the exhaust!!!

sdanville · 09-15-2004, 06:14 PM

[quote=shaneland]just changed my plugs yesterday.

I reach in from the top over the TBI and down the back. I have changed them from underneath as well. Underneath is easier as you can see what your doing.

What is the TBI ?

Bill V · 09-15-2004, 09:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by shaneland

just changed my plugs yesterday.

I reach in from the top over the TBI and down the back. I have changed them from underneath as well. Underneath is easier as you can see what your doing.

Make sure you secure the wires as the often lay on the exhaust!!!

Yours is a piece of cake (a '93). The 2000 and up version with the "E" code 3.4l engine is a back breaker.

shaneland · 09-15-2004, 10:08 PM

throttle body injection...

shaneland · 09-15-2004, 10:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bill V

Yours is a piece of cake (a '93). The 2000 and up version with the "E" code 3.4l engine is a back breaker.

sorry for the lack of paying attention...

Kawdog · 12-07-2004, 01:41 PM

Getting ready to replace my '97 Olds Sihouette plugs, and have a couple of questions ...

Quote:

Originally Posted by GMMerlin

There are a couple ways to do this job..you can loosen the front "dog bone" mounts and shift the engine forward (all you are doing is tilting the engine no removing it) or you can go in from underneath.

1) Does your advice apply to the '97 Silhoutte's, also ??
2) Does the engine need to be supported from above (ie., with a strap or chain from an engine hoist or overhead beam, when the front ("dog bone") engine mounts are removed ??
3) Which method (removing the engine mounts, or accessing from below) of removing/replacing the plugs would you recommend ??

Thanks in advance ...

swimmin_mensan · 06-11-2005, 12:03 AM

How do you replace from below? I have jacked up and can't find where to access plugs. Do I have to remove anything to acces plugs?

cdru · 06-11-2005, 03:58 PM

From below, you can access them by reaching up through the opening where the exhaust pipe comes out. You will need to jack up the car a considerable amount of distance though. I found it just as easy to remove the ignition modules (hint...once you remove it, never put the nuts on the rear studs...makes the next time alot easier) and going at it from the top. I'm a husky guy with big arms and hands, and it's a really tight squeeze to get under the vehicle as well as fit my arm up in there. I just go at it from the top.

I've done it enough times for various repairs on the back half of the engine that it only takes a jiffy to pull the ignition module to get easy access to everything back there.

My steps:
1. Remove both dogbones
2. Use a ratchet belt strap (for tying down cargo) and thread it through the loop on the right, front corner engine support bracket going through the hole where the hood latches down. (other locations are available too). Tigten down slightly.
3. Remove the middle link of the wiper arm assembly.
4. Remove spark plug wires from ignition module.
5. Remove two front bolts and 2 rear nuts. You may need to rock the engine forward slightly make room for the rear
6. Rock engine back if you moved it forward already. Remove ignition module and set aside.
7. Change rear plugs. A universal joint and/or a stubby ratchet wrench may be helpful.
8. Reassemble is the opposite order.

diesel1962 · 06-11-2005, 09:43 PM

Hello.It took me three hours to change plugs in my 97 olds van.Bought it used ,And the plugs were original from the factory.They were in there for 158,000!!.Had to use P-B Blaster oil to get them to loosen up.It was like they were welded into the heads! You can get to plugs from underneath the vehicle.You cannot really see them very well,But you can do them by feel.Good luck, Diesel 1962..

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