smoking heater

[ibarra_design]

Hi there,
My Silhouette minivan '91 smokes trough vents when heater is turned on. It seems that it is odorless non greasey. Any ideas of what to look and where for?
Thank you in advanced for your help!

[diesel1962]

You may have a bad heater core,And that is what is causing the "smoke" that you see.What you see is antifreez.

[cdru]

Originally Posted by diesel1962

You may have a bad heater core,And that is what is causing the "smoke" that you see.What you see is antifreez.

I had thought that to, but usually the "smoke" would have the distinctive anti-freeze smell. When my 98's core when south last year, I know it did. Another tell-tale sign is a film on the front windshield directly above the defroster vents after the defroster has ran for a while. Your windshield would also fog up quicker, but since it's starting to get warmer out, it isn't likely to fog up.

[ibarra_design]

Originally Posted by cdru

I had thought that to, but usually the "smoke" would have the distinctive anti-freeze smell. When my 98's core when south last year, I know it did. Another tell-tale sign is a film on the front windshield directly above the defroster vents after the defroster has ran for a while. Your windshield would also fog up quicker, but since it's starting to get warmer out, it isn't likely to fog up.

Thank you diesel1962 and cdru, how do I get to it? Cdru is right on the money, since I could not explain originally what was going on with the fogging defroster vents. So would you guys tell me how to proceed? Is it inexpensive/doable?

Thank you much guys!!

–Mig

[cdru]

Sorry I can't help you with your 91. I have a 98 which may have a different layout. My 98 was a pain in the ass to remove as you have to take apart the lower part of the center console to get it it, plus unhook several very poorly positioned clamps on firewall behind the engine where there isn't any room to get at them (hint: replace clamps with worm-screw clamps). A '91 may be easier (or harder). I'd suggest getting a Haynes manual for your vehicle. The instructions will be in there and will save you considerably over what the dealership will charge in the long run.

An aftermarket core will probably run you $50-60. There really isn't a reason to get OEM in this case.

I would also look into getting this fixed ASAP. Obviously it's a leak and your cooling system could have problems, but if/when it really starts leaking, the coolant will get into the carpet where it is VERY difficult to completly remove. Coolant doesn't evaporate cleanly and all that padding will just soak it up. I didn't catch mine until all the padding under the drivers feet was soaked and the coolant had found a hole to run out of near the drivers door.

[diesel1962]

Hello! Yes I too would suggest buying a Haynes manual,Or Chiltons manual.Or,If you want to,You could buy some Aluma seal. I used that in my 97 olds van.I had a small coolant leak at the intake gasket,And it leaks no more.I did that about two months ago,Just as a quick fix,Untill I get settled into my new house(With a garage!!)Anyway,Buy a book and study it.Have a good day!! Diesel 1962

[cdru]

Originally Posted by diesel1962

Or,If you want to,You could buy some Aluma seal. I used that in my 97 olds van.I had a small coolant leak at the intake gasket,And it leaks no more.I did that about two months ago,Just as a quick fix,Untill I get settled into my new house(With a garage!!)Anyway,Buy a book and study it.Have a good day!! Diesel 1962

I would strongly suggest not going with alumaseal (or similar products). Our vehicles have enough problems as it is with the cooling system as is, it doesn't need the additional help of little metal particles clogging up everywhere. In a pinch it can work, but depending on the size of the problem it may not fix it long. The best course of action is to actually repair the problem, not put a band-aid on it.

[TexasGuy]

For now you can connect two tubes that go to the core together, bypassing leaky thing. Just done so on mine. Will wait till October when I will actually need heater.

[ibarra_design]

Originally Posted by TexasGuy

For now you can connect two tubes that go to the core together, bypassing leaky thing. Just done so on mine. Will wait till October when I will actually need heater.

Thank you TexasGuy, how did you get to it? Where is the heater core located at? Under the dashboard or at the bottom in the middle under the cigarrette/cup holder?

Anybody with pictures/diagram?

Thank you all

[cdru]

You are going to bypass it in the engine compartment. If you look straight back at the firewall, directly behind the EGR valve, you'll see a mess of coolant hoses. Two of them enter the firewall. That is the connections for the heater core. It's a PITA to get back to them just due to the fact that the engine is there. Getting those clamps off is 1/3 the job. The other 2/3 is relatively easy, albeit time consuming, work to remove the trim pieces to get to the core.

The core is located in the center console area, directly behind the control for the blower/heater/ac. You first remove the lower plastic trim piece, the metal bracket, the vent pipes, then pop off the cover exposing the core.

[ibarra_design]

Originally Posted by cdru

You are going to bypass it in the engine compartment. If you look straight back at the firewall, directly behind the EGR valve, you'll see a mess of coolant hoses. Two of them enter the firewall. That is the connections for the heater core. It's a PITA to get back to them just due to the fact that the engine is there. Getting those clamps off is 1/3 the job. The other 2/3 is relatively easy, albeit time consuming, work to remove the trim pieces to get to the core.

The core is located in the center console area, directly behind the control for the blower/heater/ac. You first remove the lower plastic trim piece, the metal bracket, the vent pipes, then pop off the cover exposing the core.

THANK YOU CDRU
So I have to get to this middle console area, first taking the top of the dashboard off, right?

Thanx again!

[cdru]

Originally Posted by ibarra_design

THANK YOU CDRU
So I have to get to this middle console area, first taking the top of the dashboard off, right?

No. You take the bottom part, the part next to the accelerator pedal.

The actual steps are:
1. Drain cooling system
2. Move air clearner and intake duct assembly
3. Remove driver side wiper linkage
4. Disconnect heater hoses at teh heater core inlet and outlet on the engine side of the firewall
5. From the inside, remove the lower right sound insulator panel from below the glove box, the lowe left sound insulator panel and the knee bolster from below teh steering column. Then remove the center floor console.
6. Remove the center floor console support brace.
7. Remove the floor air duct from below the heaer core
8. Remove the heater core outlet cover
9. Remove the heater core cover
10. Remove the heater core pipe retaining clamp screw
11. Remove the heater core clamp screw screw and clamp, then slide the heater core out.
12. Reassembly is the reverse procedure.

The hardest part is getting the clamps on and off. When I did mine, I just cut the hoses right at the inlet/outlet pipes and replace the hoses and clamps with new ones. Worm-drive clamps are so much easer to get on and off. Coat the inside of the hoses with a little engine oil to make then slide on easier as well.

[ibarra_design]

Originally Posted by cdru

No. You take the bottom part, the part next to the accelerator pedal.

The actual steps are:
1. Drain cooling system
2. Move air clearner and intake duct assembly
3. Remove driver side wiper linkage
4. Disconnect heater hoses at teh heater core inlet and outlet on the engine side of the firewall
5. From the inside, remove the lower right sound insulator panel from below the glove box, the lowe left sound insulator panel and the knee bolster from below teh steering column. Then remove the center floor console.
6. Remove the center floor console support brace.
7. Remove the floor air duct from below the heaer core
8. Remove the heater core outlet cover
9. Remove the heater core cover
10. Remove the heater core pipe retaining clamp screw
11. Remove the heater core clamp screw screw and clamp, then slide the heater core out.
12. Reassembly is the reverse procedure.

The hardest part is getting the clamps on and off. When I did mine, I just cut the hoses right at the inlet/outlet pipes and replace the hoses and clamps with new ones. Worm-drive clamps are so much easer to get on and off. Coat the inside of the hoses with a little engine oil to make then slide on easier as well.

Thank you CDRU, you probably got out of breath typing this uh? http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...ons/icon10.gif It seems that it is a big job!

Thank you again!! Cheers http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...ons/icon14.gif

[testing99]

Originally Posted by cdru

No. You take the bottom part, the part next to the accelerator pedal.

The actual steps are:
1. Drain cooling system
2. Move air clearner and intake duct assembly
3. Remove driver side wiper linkage
4. Disconnect heater hoses at teh heater core inlet and outlet on the engine side of the firewall
5. From the inside, remove the lower right sound insulator panel from below the glove box, the lowe left sound insulator panel and the knee bolster from below teh steering column. Then remove the center floor console.
6. Remove the center floor console support brace.
7. Remove the floor air duct from below the heaer core
8. Remove the heater core outlet cover
9. Remove the heater core cover
10. Remove the heater core pipe retaining clamp screw
11. Remove the heater core clamp screw screw and clamp, then slide the heater core out.
12. Reassembly is the reverse procedure.

The hardest part is getting the clamps on and off. When I did mine, I just cut the hoses right at the inlet/outlet pipes and replace the hoses and clamps with new ones. Worm-drive clamps are so much easer to get on and off. Coat the inside of the hoses with a little engine oil to make then slide on easier as well.

I know my problem is not related to this but since you guy's know your way around this system i thought you could offer some insight.

Problems

Very little or no heat from the van and very little air coming out of middle console vents when selecting heat. If i select cold it blows through the middle console very well.

My coolant levels are fine. If i select fresh or recirculate i can hear the door change position and the air temp does change. it feels like a vent door is not quite closed..i checked and one was sticking fixed now but still the same (no heat).

1. Can the thermostat cause these symptoms maybe the hot fluid is not making it to the heater core ?

2. Is there some vent that i'm overlooking stuck open ?

3. Is it normal that the center air console vents seem restricked when selecting heat but not when selecting cold ?

my van has front and rear heat/air
my van has passenger and driver controls 2001

it's winter up here in Canada wifey is getting upset

thks. Peter

[ibarra_design]

Sorry I can't help much (since my van is a 1991), no idea as how the console for a 2001 is, but it seems that you are not getting heat because either the coolant is old and the other reason could be a faulty thermostat. As far as the vents go, again is a different story. The first thing to do is to replace the thermo and coolant, once you are sure that you get heat, then you can go under the console and check for hoses out of place. Is the fan blowing air at any position?

As far as my heater core, Yes! I did replace it at the begining of December and let me tell you, what a pain in the ass!! Thank you all!!

Mig

Originally Posted by testing99

I know my problem is not related to this but since you guy's know your way around this system i thought you could offer some insight.

Problems

Very little or no heat from the van and very little air coming out of middle console vents when selecting heat. If i select cold it blows through the middle console very well.

My coolant levels are fine. If i select fresh or recirculate i can hear the door change position and the air temp does change. it feels like a vent door is not quite closed..i checked and one was sticking fixed now but still the same (no heat).

1. Can the thermostat cause these symptoms maybe the hot fluid is not making it to the heater core ?

2. Is there some vent that i'm overlooking stuck open ?

3. Is it normal that the center air console vents seem restricked when selecting heat but not when selecting cold ?

my van has front and rear heat/air
my van has passenger and driver controls 2001

it's winter up here in Canada wifey is getting upset

thks. Peter