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Old 11-02-2004, 09:13 PM   #1
Ranger Rick
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88 Ranger cuts out and dies!

Aloha,

I have an 88 ranger 2.9L V6 Auto Trans. Runs and idles fine for about a mile or two and then acts as if it's running out of gas. It'll sputter and whe I pump the throttle it runs for a few seconds more and then dies. I checked the fuel pump in the tank by listening for a whiring sound when the key is placed in on position and It seemed ok. I would like to do a fuel pressure check but the gauge is about $70 and I'd like to spend that money on the part instead. If anyone has had this problem or can help I would greatly appreciate it!

Thanks in Advance!!
Rick
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Old 11-03-2004, 02:50 PM   #2
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I have an 88 auto as well, I really like my truck. Are you throwing any codes? Your Ranger has 2 fuel pumps. I think they started doing that in 88, maybe in 87. You have a towing fuel pump in the gas tank, a high pressure fuel pump on the drivers side frame and a fuel pressure regulator on the drivers side by the firewall on the frame. When you turn your key on you should be able to hear the fuel pump slightly in the cab. It could be a number of things, if it were throwing a code, it would be much easier to find out what's wrong. Do you have any white smoke coming out? My 88 heads were screwed when I rebuild my engine @ 98,000 miles. It could be a contributer to the problem, but you would know if your heads were cracked (mysterious loss of water, water in oil, greenish/yellow sludge under oil cap and or under valve covers). You're gonna have to really do some poking around to find that problem.
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Old 11-03-2004, 05:26 PM   #3
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Re: 88 Ranger cuts out and dies!

Thanks Psychopete!

I'm in the process now of replacing the inline fuel filter. I also have the canister style filter. I couldn't blow through the inline filter so I'm sure that will fix it. I don't have a listing of the codes for this vehicle but may purchase the manual soon. I've done a code check for a Nissan sentra a long time ago but even with the codes, I'm not sure what Ford requires to determine the codes. I'm sure it's a simple procedure. If you know how and where I can get the codes online that would be GREAT!

I'll let you know if the filter solves the problem. AGAIN, Thanks for the reply!

Rick
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Old 11-03-2004, 08:34 PM   #4
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Re: 88 Ranger cuts out and dies!

I've installed the new in line filter and still same problem. I was sure this would solve the problem since the old filter was hard to blow through. Any suggestions would help!

Thanks!
Rick
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Old 11-04-2004, 07:16 AM   #5
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EEek, you should always wait on buying new parts. Look on google on how to scan codes for an EEC IV with an analog volt meter. It's very simple, I just can't tell you because there is a simple wiring procedure, and it would be best if you saw it, rather than me telling it.

Pete
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Old 11-04-2004, 09:42 AM   #6
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Re: 88 Ranger cuts out and dies!

BTW: In my Ranger book it says that it runs 40PSI of fuel pressure. A person can't nearly put out as many PSI as a fuel pump. I imagine that's why it was hard to blow through. Is ther any smoke that comes out when it starts to die? Does your check engine light come on?
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Old 11-04-2004, 02:52 PM   #7
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Re: 88 Ranger cuts out and dies!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Psychopete
EEek, you should always wait on buying new parts. Look on google on how to scan codes for an EEC IV with an analog volt meter. It's very simple, I just can't tell you because there is a simple wiring procedure, and it would be best if you saw it, rather than me telling it.

Pete
Pete,

Thanks for the info. I've printed the codes and ready to go but I'm embarassed to say I can't locate the self test connector. I've scowered under the hood at all of the available connectors and none fit that description.

Rick
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Old 11-04-2004, 03:35 PM   #8
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Weird, it should be coming off the main harness passenger side fender. It should have a big clip over the top of it that says, "Self-Test". I wish I had access to more equipment, I'd scan my electrical diagrams that point exactly where it is..

Let me know if you have any more troubles, I do have a digital camera, and I could take a picture of mine for you.

Pete
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Old 11-08-2004, 01:13 PM   #9
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Re: 88 Ranger cuts out and dies!

Pete,

I found the test connector. I'm getting a code 11 indicating system ok. I'm thinking there are only three things to look at.

1. Low pressure fuel pump (in tank).
2. High pressure fuel pump (on frame).
3. pressure regulator.

When I turn the key to "on" positon I hear the in tank pump whirl.
Is there a simple way to test these items without purchasing a $60 pressure test gauge?
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Old 11-08-2004, 03:55 PM   #10
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Rick, Glad you're getting system pass. It's hard to tell what is causing the fault sometimes. Really the only way to test the fuel pumps is to get the fuel pressure tester. You can test the regulator by taking off the vaccum line from the FPR going into the upper intake. If it has gas in the vacuum line, it's shot.

To make this easier:
The FPR can be located on the drivers side engine between the valve cover and upper intake. It's on the fuel rail, all the way back towards the firewall. the line is facing towards the firewall, and it goes to the drivers side upper intake vacuum splitter thingy. (Where your master cylinder gets vacuum from).

More than likely if it was shot, it would be running rich, so I am not sure if this is the case.

I am not sure if your or my Ranger has the fuel reservoir, I've never had any problems with my fuel pumps or the reservoir, so I've never had to trouble shoot this.

I know that if it drops fuel pressure over a certain peroid of time, like 5 minutes, that's bad. So maybe you can pump up the fuel to the fuel rail, push on the shrader valve and compare the amount of pressure. If it's a drastic change I might be a little worried, but I am not sure if the fuel pumps are the cause. However, I wouldn't take this as a good way to test, I am just brain storming. So if it's different don't go changing your fuel pumps yet. I want you to save as much money as possible. Also check to see if the fuel is recirculating back into the gas tank.

It's just strange that it runs and dies with no check engine light. You might want to let it run until it dies then use the other test methods to see if it has a code in memory. I don't believe a KOEO will rasie an error for what ever is occuring. It sounds like a sensor that contributes to your air fuel mixture... Maybe even the TFI module going bad on your distributer. These go bad over time, and when they get hot, they just quit working... Does it not want to start up again until it's cold?

FYI: A bit of detail about myself, I am not a mechanic. I have just helped build a performance in-line 6 200, 5.0L in a 1979 Ford Fairmont station Wagon. And I have built a bad ass 2.9L with MAF and a big cam. (Very tricky) I've almost had that entire front end of that truck apart. I am only really fimilar with the front end/engine, so I am still learning as well. I still need to learn more about the Ford 7.5, over drive transmissions and the fuel system. The rust keeps me away from messing with it Just to give you an idea of who you're dealing with.
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Old 11-09-2004, 02:07 AM   #11
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Re: 88 Ranger cuts out and dies!

Pete,

That's great advice! I'll try it all tomorrow.

A little about myself too. I'm an engineer at a sheraton resort in Hawaii but I used to help my father rebuild smallblock chevy engines when I was growing up. My first 2 cars were 55 chevy's and we played with 283,327, and 350 smallblocks a lot. Sure was simple in those days!

This ford is an old beater but its been reliable and here in the islands no one cares what your car looks like as long as you can get to the beach with the dogs, chairs, umbrella's etc.

Again thanks for the help. I'm going to visit this site often so I can maybe help someone as well.

Aloha

Rick
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Old 11-09-2004, 04:43 PM   #12
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Re: 88 Ranger cuts out and dies!

Hey guys,
thanks for helping me find trouble codes. My 92 2.9 has been running rough lately and want to find any possible trouble codes but don't have a scanner. I found Tech Tips on Google and it explains in detail how to find fault codes without a scanner. I'm not a professional at this stuff, just learnin little by little. thanks again for the help!!!
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Old 11-11-2004, 01:46 PM   #13
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Pete,

I got It!
Turns out that when I removed the vacuum line on my FPR, instead of dripping gas, it dripped 2-3 drops of oil! The only way it could have done that is if the PCV valve sucked it up to the throttle body. I changed the PVC valve and hit the butterfly valve with some carb cleaner, and changed a couple of vacuum hoses and it runs great now!

THANKS FOR ALL YOUR HELP!

Rick
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Old 11-12-2004, 07:01 AM   #14
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Hey, that's awesome man, glad to hear it's running again!
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Old 02-09-2018, 02:05 PM   #15
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Re: 88 Ranger cuts out and dies!

Hi.

I have a stock 1988 XLT Extended Cab 2.9l v6 California version w/5 speed, cruise, air(a/c) not A.I.R.. I have a stock dual fuel tank set up with the in dash tank selector, EFI. Ford pick up trucks have had dual tanks as an option for many, many years, even if the dealer didn't want to mention it as he then has to order it as opposed to sell one off the lot. (Foot note, on a dual tank Ranger there is no provision for a spare, you have to work it out on your own. The Bronco swing away that I got from a junk yard wouldn't do the trick).

To share what I have learned solving a poor idle condition w/occasional hydro lock during start, also cutting out intermittently (If yours quits and won't restart but will crank, try letting of fuel pressure and also loosen tank cap, might cause restart of unknown time length) while going up hill or at less than 1/2 tank (clogging tank strainer). Also slow start, cranks three or four seconds.

There are two fuel lines that first go to the tank source (my term) solenoid valve selector, this from the dash selector switch. Next a single line goes to an inline canister filter (black plastic package shielded, bolted to frame rail), Continues to high pressure pump (pump number three; pumps one and 2 live in their respective fuel tanks and these are high volume and low pressure, probably both same part number). From here we go to the well hidden and annoying to access while lying on the ground second fuel filter. This is the one that in this year uses the plastic horseshoe clips, and is held on by a stainless hose clamp. Effectively it is above the left front wheel on the inside area above the left front frame kick.

From there it is to the top on the motor to the regulator and the return system.

The hydro lock is caused by the diaphragm failure in the regulater. It pours gasoline via the vacuum control line directly into the intake manifold, and corrupts the engine vacuum levels by changing the fuel supply which affects the EEC-IV engine controls which require smooth vacuum source.

Why this plays with the fuel filters is it washes charcoal filter canister material back into both tanks and then back to both filters. I took the original fuel filter off (103,000 miles)(Second filter, waiting for canister to come from internet buy for filter one). It was full of black coarse crud. I though some local wag had stuck a handful of asphalt into one of my tanks. What I realize now is two things will have caused this: Regulator wash back, and TOPPING OFF fuel tanks. I bought this from a guy in Covina CA about three and a half years ago and have almost not driven it. I have no idea of previous owner filling habits, my guess is topping off. Low use not because of performance issues (I did know that the one tank acted like a fuel pump issue before I bought it), but because I have had limited time time to use it. I bought it to solve a problem which became self solving, but liked the truck so much I decided to hang onto it "for later".

Now I need to smog it (In L.A. County), and I can't get it to idle. As soon as the new regulator gets here that should solve itself. If I have to, I'll drop the tanks and m/t them and strain out the charcoal.

I'd be willing to bet a lot of these phantom "My Ranger doesn't run right at low speed" issues are the charcoal canister. At high speed it runs well with poor economy.
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