32" MTR's

[warmonger]

If you look closely at the clearance on the L/F tire of both trucks at the rear wheel well you can clearly see how close the clearance is. I would be surprised if they don't rub at full articulation. I have to agree with XOC on this one. You can add a suspension lift and you will increase your articulation proportionate to the amount of the lift. But it doesn't change your bump stop unless you replace it with a longer one, limiting your upward articulation. I don't condone the condescending attitude, but I do agree with the logic and facts as presented. I personally wouldn't put 32's on an unlifted truck unless I modified the rims in some way. But then you begin to put at risk your steering components. But even lifted, you still have to modify the rims to prevent rub due to the fact that suspension travel hasn't changed.

[xoc]

Originally posted by warmonger
I don't condone the condescending attitude, but I do agree with the logic and facts as presented.

Sometimes that's the only choice. I've been trying to explain this to Mike for a month or two now.

[warmonger]

Originally posted by Schludwiller
Also, adding new torsion bars had more of an effect on my rubbing problems than anything.

I don't know which torsion bars you added, but I am going to go on the assumption that they are Sway Away. If so, they are 30% stiffer I am guessing. This will reduce the rate at which the front end drops. But if you have the added weight of an ARB and winch, you will offset this somewhat although not completely. You can still compress the front suspension fully, it just takes more work. Stiffer shock absorbers will also effect it somewhat. But again, neither of these changes the articulation. Just the speed with which it articulates and the force it requires to reach full articulation, thus reducing how often it actually hits the contact point.

[Ag_xterra]

measurement A = 13.5"

measurement B = 11.0"

thus making measurement H = 2.5"

[Maddog]

Not trying to join the fray, but my 32x10.50 TSLs would not fit without cranking the t-bars. I have since added an SLR suspension lift, but they would not fit on my stock truck without altering the ride height.


Dog

[xoc]

Originally posted by Maddog
Not trying to join the fray, but my 32x10.50 TSLs would not fit without cranking the t-bars.

"Fit" how ?

[xoc]

Originally posted by Ag_xterra
measurement A = 13.5"
measurement B = 11.0"
thus making measurement H = 2.5"

Thank you, 0.6" over stock. My mistake, it didn't look that high in the photo. Any alignment problems ?

[Ag_xterra]

well i do believe i was below the recommended factory ride height of 1.79". when i measured from the body mount closest to the torsion bar adjuster nut i raised it a total of 1.25".

the O.D. of my 32's are only 31.5" actual. if they were swampers i'd probably have alot more rubbing issues on road.

dealership said it was difficult to get all the specs back into alignment but they were able to get it pretty close.

[xoc]

Originally posted by Ag_xterra
well i do believe i was below the recommended factory ride height of 1.79". when i measured from the body mount closest to the torsion bar adjuster nut i raised it a total of 1.25".

That sounds about right when compared to the factory measurement point. The factory point is inside from the centerline of the tire, so your measuring only part way along the triangle.

[Philosopher]

Originally posted by xoc


Sure...

Why must you go on and on with this nonsense ?

Adjusting the torsion bars does not alter the suspension in any way. The amount of upward travel and downward travel are exactly the same as a stock Xterra. Travel is limited by the bumpstops, and nothing else.

Say what? How can someone with "20 years of experience" say something so foolish? This is utter bullshit. When you crank up torsion bars, you push the upper bumpstops closer the the upper control arm, thus limiting your travel. The amount of travel a stock Xterra has versus an Xterra with torsion bars cranked up is different, and everyone who has cranked their t-bars up even just a little bit should be able to notice the difference in ride quality since they don't have as much down travel as they did when their truck was stock.



Adjusting the torsion bars alters the ride height, but when the suspension is fully compressed the wheel is in exactly the same place regardless of whether the ride height is adjusted, or whether a lift kit is installed.

Please tell me why the wheel can no longer travel all the way up if the torsion bars are cranked.

This is such a simple thing Mike, and I have to wonder why you try to convince yourself and others that it is not a fact.




What you're saying about this maybe fine in theory but not in practice. You say that some guy in your club has gotten 32's to fit under his Xterra without cranking the torsion bars? Fine. He's the only guy I know of who didn't have to crank his t-bars at least a little bit to make 32's fit. Maybe his t-bars were cranked a bit higher from the factory than everyone else's. Maybe his front suspension is magical. Either way, everyone else has had to crank up the torsion bars to get 32's to fit. That is my point and that is what I tell people who ask me: To get 31's to fit under an X, you need to trim the plastic around the wheel wells. To get 32's to fit, you have to trim a bit more plastic and crank the torsion bars at least a little bit.

[OffroadX]

Travel is NOT altered. The maximum upward stuff and downward droop (the full suspension travel) does NOT change. The only things that change with a t-bar tweak are the distances from "rest" to max upward travel and to max downward travel. You can call this "reduced down-travel" and "increased up-travel" if it makes you happy, but it is certainly not reduced droop or increased stuff, which would be a change in true suspension travel.
The "change in ride quality" is not related to "reduced down-travel", it is because the increased pre-load on the bars makes the suspension less willing to "give" to the smaller changes in the road surface and therefore transmits more to the body, as well as reducing roll somewhat.

Brent

[Philosopher]

Originally posted by OffroadX
The only things that change with a t-bar tweak are the distances from "rest" to max upward travel and to max downward travel.

Yeah, i.e. reduced down travel. I think most folks reading this know what I mean.

[OffroadX]

But reduced down travel has nothing to do with making tires fit. The tweak that causes it does make the rubbing less frequent, but no less likely.

Brent

[Philosopher]

Originally posted by OffroadX
But reduced down travel has nothing to do with making tires fit.

Brent

Read my last paragraph 4 posts up. Did you crank your torsion bars up a bit to fit your 32" KO's Brent?

[Philosopher]

Originally posted by OffroadX
The tweak that causes it does make the rubbing less frequent

That "tweak" is what saves your fenders from being wrecked and your tires from being worn down and cut up prematurely ... that is my point and has been from the beginning - can you fit 32's under an X without cranking the torsion bars? Probably, but you can't drive down the street (or hit a trail) with them like that without damaging something sooner or later.

I don't claim to know it all, or even most of it. But I do know that you need to crank up the t-bars a little bit to fit 32's under an X to have no rubbing ... I know, I did it 2 years ago. After trimming a shitload of plastic in front of and behind the front wheel well I had to crank them up a bit to stop the rubbing issues.


This is getting really old - I tried to help someone out on XOC by telling them they would need to crank up their t-bars a bit to fit 32's and all this crap is the result of that. Was my initial statement correct? Yes. Next time I'll just ignore 'the whiners' (an Ian term) and/or just keep my opinion to myself and let someone with more years of wheeling experience (you and Ian) answer instead.