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Old 05-28-2005, 01:19 PM   #1
mikenearmilwaukee
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Thumbs up PO400 Infinti J30 1997

Soo, Autozone says po400... CEL is on of course, and they didnt have a book for it. Where is this EGR, I read you can't replace it without having to take the whole tranny out, and such... I of course cant do that... Have read about cleaning out the hoses to and from it, does anyone have advice as to where it is on the J30, or pointers on this code in general? Thank you.

EDIT: PLEASE JUST SCROLL ALL THE WAY DOWN TO GET THE REAL ANSWER TO THIS CODE... OR WHAT WORKED FOR ME... Finally anyway... Save yourself sometime...

Last edited by mikenearmilwaukee; 07-22-2005 at 07:29 AM.
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Old 05-30-2005, 06:16 AM   #2
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Re: PO400 Infinti J30 1997

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Originally Posted by mikenearmilwaukee
... does anyone have advice as to where it is on the J30...
...seek manual links on page1
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Old 05-31-2005, 07:28 AM   #3
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umm... What/where is page 1?
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Old 05-31-2005, 08:23 AM   #4
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Re: PO400 Infinti J30 1997

Quote:
Originally Posted by mikenearmilwaukee
umm... What/where is page 1?
↓↓↓↓↓↓↓↓↓↓↓↓↓↓↓↓↓↓↓↓↓↓↓↓↓↓↓↓↓↓↓↓↓↓↓↓↓↓↓↓↓↓↓↓↓↓↓↓↓↓ ↓↓↓↓↓↓↓↓↓↓↓↓↓↓↓↓↓
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Old 06-01-2005, 12:57 AM   #5
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Re: PO400 Infinti J30 1997

not exactly the same car man....
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Old 06-01-2005, 02:27 AM   #6
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Re: Re: PO400 Infinti J30 1997

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Originally Posted by Underground_Killah
not exactly the same car man....
...u mean the toyota or honda FSM's & manuals on those 3 sites? abs not.

parts is parts. Nissan uses same parts assemblys in most cars, to get that info its not necessary to have same model FSM: "...--->or pointers on this code in general?"
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Old 06-29-2005, 06:56 AM   #7
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Hello again, still haven't fixed the EGR flow. I found out how to reset the computer/ ECU. Under glove box, tough to get too... I would have put it back in the other way so the screw faces out, but there were wayyy to many wires. You'll know what I mean if you ever have to do it... Anyway, the damn code still hasn't changed. PO400 from the computer, and 32 from the Check Engine Light blink. ... I didnt really expect it too. Heh. I called a few Infiniti dealers and they say quote, " ahhhh figure about 5 to 6 HUNDRED dollars... " PFFFFFF, they heard a click real fast. :o I found a OEM Service Manual for the J30 on EBAY believe it or not... That set me back less then 40$. I have also subscribed to all alldatadiy.com and for the J30 the site is slightly useless. At any rate, I have located the pipes that run a long the block, and I am confident I can remove them at least far enough to poke a wire around. I just want to wait until I get the book. I have been researching this for a long time, and I really can't wait to get in there. As anyone who has dealt with the EGR can tell you, its damn hard to get too. I have seen pictures of it on other cars, and its right on top, easy to clean the gasket and locate all the ports. Silly design. Anyway, step by step for the DIY ers out there heres where Im at and feel free to email with any questions, when ever, I can send pics and if the service manual has tips, I can include those as well.

* First, Googled PO400 Code. Found this and many other sites. Learned a lot about what the EGR is/does. Seems to be common with high mile J30 s. ...

*Determined it was still safe to drive the car with the CEL on.

*Located, EGR on engine... cursed. a lot. damn thats ugly. :'( If you feel around under the "saucer" you can feel a rubber gasket, with the car SLIGHTLY warm, push up on it while in idle. If it slows the EGR is not working, if the idle stays at about 700-800, then there is a clog. Carbon is either in a hose, the pipes described above, the intake "collector" and/or the throttle body. Also feel around the gasket to make sure nothing got stuck in there somehow. It should glide smoothly up and down.

*Next test, while engine is still in idle, still warming up, rev it up a little... you should feel that same rubber gasket move with the RPM. Smooth. Mine did. I take that to mean all is well with the VAC system.

*Checked temp sensor. Easy. Ohm meter to the connector. Follow the long white jacket wire to the top of the engine. Should be about 250kOHMs when the engine is still HOT.

*Checked the solenoid for proper speedy function. Do this by disconnecting the two tubes on the rear of it. Then, while the engine is still at least a little warm, start, and rev it a little, you can feel the vacuum switch from to tube to tube. The EGR tube seems to have a stronger "suck" then the one that goes to the MAF area. ... ? for mine anyway.

*All systems seemed good. Called around, Googled some more and came to the clog conclusion. I refuse to pay some wiener 500$ to clean a tube in my engine. 160 is one thing, but not 500! It seems to be simple enough, there appears to be only 3 screws attaching each exhaust tube to the intake, one back a bit, and two the end of it by the intake. Then, there is a bit of hose before the EGR, making this whole part flexible. Well, thats the idea anyway. My plan is to WD-40 these 8 year old, super heated screws for about a day... then take em out, clean the tubes and pray. Maybe poke around a little in the intake with a "lint free" pipe cleaner... If I find anything, I like to use a little vacuum I found. I attached an old vacuum tube to it, doesn't suck to hard, but will surely hold a carbon ball. I want to get as much out as I can. Of course.


I will post an update when this happens. I hope to hear from others that have this same problem. I think this needs to be discussed at length. Its hard to find really useful info on the more technical parts of the engine, and its parts.

Yikes, I really rambled... thanks for making this far, hope it helps. :o

email ----> myi7i (AT) hotmail (DOT) com no spams....

And do those replies up there make sense to anyone? WTF?? lol.
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Old 06-29-2005, 01:17 PM   #8
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Re: PO400 Infinti J30 1997

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Originally Posted by mikenearmilwaukee
....*Located, EGR on engine... . ....And do those replies up there make sense to anyone? WTF?? lol.
I am pretty sure the EGR building bits are equal in 'all' nissan V6 engines: EGR is detailed in those FSM's readily available to download.

Its typical that EGR, IACV & TB needs cleaning at 80k. Any vehicle...
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Old 06-30-2005, 06:56 AM   #9
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Its not the "bits" that are the cause for concern... its more or less the location of those parts that makes this job harder then it should be. At any rate, I did recieve the Service Manual in the mail yesterday and will be at it when the rain stops.
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Old 07-22-2005, 07:25 AM   #10
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« Reply #6 on Jul 3, 2005, 10:09am » [quote]

Got part. All went well, idle was a rough for about 2 minutes, then smoothed out. I have greater acceleration, and less exhaust noise. Drove about 200 miles, and lights stll out. Also, the oil/gas smelling fluid seems to have "dried" up. It was a simple repair, much easier then cleaning those pipes out. It should be listed first in the repair book but its not, sooo I still had to check all the other crap first. Making the whole job a 2 out of 5 in terms of time/difficulty. - instead of a 1 or 0. Anyone can replace that part, its way harder to find it - to buy. Infinitipartsusa.com was great to work with, and had great prices. If you have this code, check the soleniod first. GL, and TC. Peace.

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« Reply #7 on Jul 4, 2005, 12:02pm » [quote]

What made the solenoid go bad? Have you check the throttle body as I suggested?

« Reply #8 on Jul 6, 2005, 8:04am » [quote]

I dont know what made it go bad, but the new one did too. I assume its a short somewhere. It worked for a weekend and them pffff. It no longer opens all the way. ... = no vacum to EGR. You can test it by removing all the hoses, and then blowing through it... key in off position = first tube. key in on position / not start = second tube. There was no coolant or other deris on or around the solenoid or the harness connector. In fact, the entire engine bay is quite clean. It was the only slightly rusted part on the engine. EGR is a little rusted on the tube elbows, but other then that.... ??? Sooo, back to the drawing board. Will be testing ECM pins for voltage spikes, shorts, continutity, and just abnormal readings as soon as its nice out. The part did function properly before I installed it. I will be contacting Infinitipartsusa.com to see if they want to work with on an exchange/refund. Even if they dont, I will still be ordering from them. Its not their fault my car is sucking now, and the part is Nissan. I can give the part number, but its under the hood at the moment...


« Reply #9 on Jul 11, 2005, 9:42pm » [quote]

Contacted IPUSA>COM and they sent me a new one for FREE. Totally free, even shipping. I just have to pay 3.95 at the USPS to send back the old one. GREAT COMPANY! WOW! Should be here on Wednesday. Will post the outcome.

« Reply #10 on Jul 19, 2005, 6:52am » [quote]

OK... Omg. I was sooo focused on the soleniod being bad or some other electrical problem that I never bothered to check the throttle body. Mostly because I don't understand it at all. But I learned a lot. I should listen to InfinitiExpert ... and so should anyone else who has this code. There was a lot of "tar" not what I call carbon, in the throttle body, and around the throttle plate. Also, the very small hole on the outter side of the throttle plate was very clogged with this oil tar. Turns out that small hole is what makes the vacum for a different soleniod then the one I was checking, looks like it goes to the EVAP and someplace else... Anyway, there was ZERO vacum at that soleniod, and whatever it controls ( the one on the driver side...) was not getting vacum - at all. Sooooo turns out I was checking the valve wrong. I did recheck the valve and it works fine. Sooo many hours wasted. Yes I can admit it.


Even though I spent 60$ on a brand new soleniod, and 5$ on throttle body cleaner it was still cheaper then the 145$ just for the dealer to tell me what was wrong. Long story short, about 10 minutes of throttle body soaking and cleaning, soaking and cleaning... The lights off and all is well, not to mention the car runs, and idles MUCH better. WOW. I also noticed significant gas milage increase. I noticed while poking around that the dealer put about 2 quarts to much oil in my car!!! It was about one inch above the H on the stick. !!! I suppose I am to blame just as much for that, but who checks the oil right after they get it changed? Well, I do from now on for sure! !!! I assume the EGR was just dumping all that oil into the intake, and everywhere else.!!! Also, I was pulling apart all the hoses and looking around, in those 4 -5" tubes ( L shaped ) that come into the bigger air tubes, that go into the throttle body, there are wire brushes. Those brushes were just caked in that tar crap. A few burst of TBC and it was gone, silver brushes again, free flowing EGR!
I second I.E. on his recomendation to check the throttle body for carbon/tar. Just have to remove that big hose on each side, all you need is a regular screwdriver, peak in and silver good - black bad. LOL what a joke. Such a waste of time. God I hope this all can help at least one person. GL and write me if you need, want any help.

God bless the internet and yes, even OBD-II. Thanks to IfinitiExpert and to everyone else who takes the time to read this and hopefully employ my story/trials.

Shine On,
Mike - near Milwaukee WI.
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Old 07-27-2005, 07:03 PM   #11
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Re: PO400 Infinti J30 1997

Mike,
I was so impressed with all that you have done to rectify your problem with your J30 that I had to reply and tell you. Good Work.

I'm having problems with my J30 too and will investigate the carbon build-up in the throtle body. I might just have bad fuel injectors also. It idles real bad and while driving at any speed. Funny thing though, it seems to smooth out during acceleration. Wish me luck man.
Later,
Dave
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Old 07-27-2005, 08:25 PM   #12
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Hmm, sounds like a timing issue or dist cap. Is your CEL on? Have you tried a real tune up yet? Let me know how it goes.
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