My 1996 Olds Achieva 3.1L V6

SargeMan · 10-18-2009, 07:51 PM

I recieved this car from my mom because she bought a new car.

We were driving it yesterday and it was riding very smoothly but needs a brake job. This car has a few problems...mostly from sitting for 5 years without any start-ups. I changed the gas, charged (and eventually replaced) the battery, cleaned it out, checked all the fluids and made the car start and run. It probably was not road-worthy, not because of its cracking tires, but because it was running rough. We brought it in, had all the fluids drained and refilled and got new tires. After we got it back, it didn't start as easily as it did before we brought it in. Currently, it has problems with a rusty fuel line, older gas, and the ECM (Engine Control Module) or the Instrument Panel Cluster (IPC).

The car will start then stall and then you can hear the fuel pump working and then it clicks. Also, there is a "sssssff" noise after it has failed to start. This happens sometimes but I think this is from a cracked head because of overheating. The IPC sometimes worked but it was very rare, and when it doesn't, you can't tell the temperature, the gas, speed, RPMs or anything... If you have any questions or comments to my problem, they will be greatly appreciated.

SargeMan · 10-19-2009, 08:20 PM

I just came in from taking out my IPC. I have heard that this is what the problem is in most situations... Is there anything that could tie together with the IPC to make another problem? I noticed that the "Rear Defrost" light comes on when the key is in the "Start" position. Is this another problem too?

SargeMan · 10-23-2009, 04:27 PM

More news... I put about half of a bottle of SeaFoam into the Oldsmobile's fuel tank... started it up 3 times and everytime the IPC worked and it started on it's own twice. Bad news... now I am hearing something like a lose ring or metal pieces moving around over by the alternator... I am having a hard time describing it. I am pretty sure this is not supposed to happen.... any ideas?

SargeMan · 11-24-2009, 04:23 PM

I did an engine diagnostics on the Olds and I got the following error codes...P1573 - PCM/EBTCM Serial Data Circuit and P1864 - Torque Converter Clutch Circuit. Are these absolutely neccessary to change or replace. I hear the TCC is only for manual cars... is this true and if it is then why do I have it because I have an automatic? If I clear the codes, will anything bad happen? I will continue adding to this thread as I learn more...

SargeMan · 11-30-2009, 05:19 PM

The noise I have been hearing is the idler pulley "bouncing" on the pulley below it. Is this hard to replace/get at?

SargeMan · 12-04-2009, 04:57 PM

I have it on a lift, trying to replace all of the spark plugs and wires. It just so happens that the Canadians who built these cars put a big engine in a small compartment (No Offense, I love this car, but not the plug locations...). So, I replaced the front 3 plugs and wires already, but had to lift up the car, take off the passenger front tire, and stick my hand 1 to 2 feet to reach the rear plugs

. I also attempted to take the coil pack off to get at them but DO NOT TRY THIS!! It is a HUGE can o' worms because the plate curves towards the front of the car, plus the electonic wires are in the way... I will try and get pictures if I can but any feed back would be great!

sowseyed505 · 12-08-2009, 02:51 PM

dont know if this helps but in my achieva the fuel pump behind the rear drivers side tire whines and clicks when i am about 2 minutes away from running out of gas. also i had running rough probs. too and changed the plug and coil packs i know about how hard it is but now my car runs fine. it sounds to me that unless you find the prob soon it could be more trouble then its worth.

SargeMan · 12-14-2009, 05:19 PM

Yes, I have heard a lot about the coil pack needing to be replaced. I am in progress of changing the fuel filter, but it requires a small fuel line tool that I am looking for... It is good to know that sowseyed505's Achieva ran better because of the replaced parts, it gives me a little motivation for finishing mine. I've also FINALLY replaced the plugs but I wired it wrong and was getting misfires, but as I was changing the wires around, one of the broke... I put in an old one, and now it starts easier, but not perfect. My dad thinks that it won't start correctly because of a bad ECM. He also said that if they go bad, then you need to get a new one. I think I know how to get a new one but am unsure of how to reprogram it...Any ideas?

SargeMan · 01-13-2010, 05:31 PM

Lose of horsepower...!!!!!

I swear, I floored it across an intersection and it took about 15 seconds to get across... Looked on the internet and found that the Catalyst Converter could have caused it and took it out of the car. Started it up and it ran a little bit better than how it was but still shaking. Thinking of selling it.....

SargeMan · 01-21-2010, 04:16 PM

I took out the EGR valve a while ago and read that if it malfunctions, it will cause the problems I am having. Also did a Diagnostic test on it... Got a lot of errors... P0122A-TP Sens Curcuit low; P0300B-Misfire Detected; P0141B-HO2S Htr Curcuit (Bank 1, Sensor 2); P0327D-Knock Sensor Curcuit; P0713D-TFT Sens Curcuit High Voltage; P1122D-TP Sens Curcuit Interm Low Voltage; P1406B-EGR PintlePosition Sensor Curcuit; and P1573D-Loss of ABS Serial Data. That was the long list of errors I got.

I will be taking my car to a shop to get it fixed hopefully tomarrow.

SargeMan · 04-22-2010, 04:33 PM

My car did get fixed, it was the ICP that was the problem.

SargeMan · 04-22-2010, 04:38 PM

Now, I think the motor may be bad, so I have a friend looking into a chevy 350 V6 small block.... Do you think it would be possible to put that in this car? The body is still good, but the motor is going... Looking for advice...

I will Check and reply when I can...

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