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Old 08-25-2011, 08:29 PM   #46
leanrich
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Re: Replacing the coolant crossover pipe

The pry bar shortcut worked well after removing throttle body and adapter and left manifold, I removed radiator fans to make that a bit easier, but could probably have done it without that. Was much easier than removing right exhaust manifold. Another pair of helping hands while prying is recommended.
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Old 08-26-2011, 09:52 AM   #47
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Re: Replacing the coolant crossover pipe

Leanrich,

Very clever solution. I never thought of that approach. Curious... how many hours for the whole job?

Steve
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Old 08-27-2011, 04:01 PM   #48
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Re: Replacing the coolant crossover pipe

----

Last edited by krivasauto; 09-22-2011 at 07:32 AM.
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Old 11-15-2011, 06:43 PM   #49
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Re: Replacing the coolant crossover pipe

Make sure all the bolts are off on the EGR valve near the cooling fan and pulled away, there is a 15mm bolt also holding the EGR tube running parallel with exhaust manifold. slip the crook end of crowbar underneath exhaust manifold and EGR tube, with some wrangling a spot should be found to pull the manifold out, up and away just enough to slip out the Crossover pipe. I used a 1/4" flex-extension with 13mm end to get out difficult bolt. The Crossover manifold uses 3 identical gaskets with metal grommets or spacers and it seems to me that the metal spacers prevent the gaskets from sealing completely and a blown seal is inevitable. Removal of the intake manifold and throttle body is pretty much a given. When removing the Fuel Injector connectors it is not necessary to remove the blue locking clip entirely, instead remove it half-way one click and use small screwdriver to push black tab back then gently remove the connector.
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Old 11-16-2011, 09:40 AM   #50
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Re: Replacing the coolant crossover pipe

The metal grommets on the three gaskets are there to make sure you don't over-tighten the seal. the seal is designed to provide the correct amount of "squeeze" on the gasket's rubber to seal properly. What is important is to make sure the surfaces are smooth and clean.
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Old 09-18-2012, 03:38 PM   #51
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Re: Replacing the coolant crossover pipe

My question is: Is this the solution to the persistent problem of flow, no internal heat at idle,overheating at idle, highway speed (55/60mph) it the engine cools and internal heat is great, then at highway speed gets hot again after awhile, and will cool to normal once revved over 2000rpm. I'm guessing due to release of pressure/water from these gaskets and the seemingly unique and delicate cooling systems of the 3.5 Intrigue?
Actually hoping this is the solution
I know that I will have to replace these cause I have spotted the seeping at the top of left/front gasket. Just hoping that this will resolve the above issues.....?
Currently own 2 2000 Intrigues, one a GL the other the standard 4 door. Both have these symptoms, one has been traced to the seeping gasket.

Last edited by juststarted_77; 09-18-2012 at 03:42 PM. Reason: Addition/ammend
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Old 09-18-2012, 03:47 PM   #52
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Re: Replacing the coolant crossover pipe

Both Intrigues have been sold over a year ago, but this thread in my inbox made me post. I still have a soft spot in my heart for the Intrigue!

Anyway to the question- The 2002 Intrigue that I had did suffer from having a difficulty getting air out of the coolant system. It takes a lot of time to bleed it. If your not dealing with air in the cooling system, and it's operating ok then I'd leave it.

The 2000 Intrigue was leaking at the front of the crossover manifold.. Dripping near the front headgasket. While it was always drivable, and didn't overheat the coolant leakage became quite noticable. More so when the engine was operated in winter ambient temperatures.

I sold it to a local dealer with this issue, along with the transmission PCS issue. Do some googling on shutterfly.com for 99Intrigue.. He used to post here under the handle KrivasAuto. He had some good pictures of what's involved.

I had difficulty finding a shop that was aware of the LX5 3.5L Engine, and this issue, and was quoted nearly $1500 for the repair. I latter found an old Oldsmobile dealer who knew the issue and would do it for around $700, but I never did.

Good Luck--
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2000 Oldsmobile Intrigue, 3.5L, GX --81,000 Miles sitting in garage awaiting shift kit P1811, and potential water crossover gasket repair.
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Old 09-18-2012, 04:08 PM   #53
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Re: Replacing the coolant crossover pipe

Yes, had air bleed issues. Took several attempts and lots of patience. Finally after several times of it back filling and bubbling through the hose at the bottom of resevior bottle and out the over fill tube, the air is out, it seems to come to full pressure and temp like normal but the flow problem seems to be my issue, mainly it seems at the heater core, until it gets a rev of rpms then all returns to normal...
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Old 09-18-2012, 04:14 PM   #54
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Re: Replacing the coolant crossover pipe

And you opened the black plastic bleed valve on the top passenger side of the radiator?

Also remove the two screws on the radiator tank and lift that up, with the cap slightly open lift the entire tank. Don't disconnect the hose to the thermostat housing. Tie this bottle up in the air to the top of the hood. Let it sit with the bleed valve on the radiator open.

You have air in the system. It's possible that those gaskets could be pulling in air, or something, but you shouldn't have that bad of flow problems.

No misfires, or potential concerns with the headgasket?

I think you still have problems with Air. I spent $100 and bought an Airlift coolant system evacutator. I was so fed up with the problem. Until I learned that lifting the coolant reservoir off the back firewall is not that hard. (Did that for a power steering pump removal.)
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2000 Oldsmobile Intrigue, 3.5L, GX --81,000 Miles sitting in garage awaiting shift kit P1811, and potential water crossover gasket repair.
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Old 09-18-2012, 04:35 PM   #55
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Re: Replacing the coolant crossover pipe

I'm with carbon2 on this. The leak will not cause loss of circulation but air in the head or pump would cause it. If you have had to add coolant a few times because of it being out or extremely low then I think that is you problem. Try what carbon2 recommends by lifting the coolant tank above the radiator and keep the tank full with the bleeder open on the radiator.
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Old 12-24-2012, 02:37 PM   #56
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Re: Replacing the coolant crossover pipe

What is the name of the gaskets that are on the coolant crossover pipe????
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Old 12-25-2012, 02:03 PM   #57
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Re: Replacing the coolant crossover pipe

Nevermind i found out thanks for the tips on how to replace and merry Christmas!!!
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Old 01-05-2015, 11:20 AM   #58
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Re: Replacing the coolant crossover pipe

thanks stan for starting this post and for the pointers on the telephone a few days ago! very kind of you to take that extra time on the phone and it

was comforting to hear the words from the person who started this thread!

i know he has his fixed and sold, but it helped us SO much, i wanted to contribute my thoughts and how i repaired the wifes car. hoping this will help others who try the "CROW BAR TRICK".

thanks to the rest that contributed as well! it all adds up and helps paint a picture, at least, for those who might want to try to take this thing on. i would NOT want to do this again! it was very hard on my back and neck and ended up laying on the car for some reprieve, when ever i could. it took me 6 hours to take it apart and another 6 to put it all together. both times out side in freezing temps and blowing winds and snowing hard. was 32 degrees both days. i did buy a swivel gear wrench in size 1/2" as thats what the wcp bolts use. odd thing tho, putting it back together is wanted 13mm on some of them. after reading over this thread a few times i decided to try to fix my wifes olds with exact problem on exact engine. i did it differently and left the intake intact and the water cross over pipe in place. i just removed the egr so i could turn the pipe and the water out let pipe on the rear of the water cross over pipe (WCP) and the 6 bolts, three being shorter than the other three. those are easy to figure where they belong.

i think the trick was to pry the exhaust pipe up high and back enough to allow access to all 6 bolts. altho with the worst of them in the rear two bolts. used a crows foot to do a lot of the turning after they were loose. used it also to break loose the bottom rear bolt. used to hand tighten both back up also. i did break the water temp sensor not knowing i did so. so it broke super easy. never heard it or felt it go, so be careful. i needed to replace it any way and tried to do that a week or so before doing this job on it. so it was a win win. being broken made it easy for a 19mm socket to fit it to get it out. the manifold looked like a pain to remove, so i looked for another way and decided leave it there and clean it and and the heads (scraper and gasrag) and spray high temp gasket adhesive/sealant to the gaskets and the cwp the best i could. the gasket holes are very tight on the bolt and i think they were made that way on purpose to help keep them in place. a bonus if you will, but also a curse trying to do it with only two hands and in place. the hardest gasket is the rear. just get the top bolt in first, then the bottom. it will hold the bolts from slipping out so you can do the fronts next. i did add high temp atv silicon to the bolt shafts making a spiral from threads to head.the front four bold and gaskets are super easy to work with. just the rear is a real bear! one of those things you wish you could farm out.
the trick to getting this whole job done was to use several crow bars and the transmission. the tranny has a flat right on top and just under the exhaust cross over pipe (ECP) that i usedto raise the ecp many times. i would use one bar to lift and then shove another bar under it and continue this until the ecp came up and over the raised 1 1/2" extension pipe that extends from the manifold (reverse this to get it back down after the rest is assembled), but this also raises the pipe in the rear, so while you are able to get a wrench on the top rear bolt, try to see when you can break it loose, before the pipe gets too high and in the way. then you are good to go to slip the pipe over that extension pipe. this allows you to turn the wcp and clean it the best you can and spray it with sealant/adhesive. i did remove the rubber hose that goes to it so i could move the wcp back and forth to get more clearance/angles.
once assembled the exhaust pipe did now want to return to its original place. so i used the 4 foot crow bar (used it the most in the entire job) to hook into the tranny bolt area and wedge the bar on top of the flange of the pipe and down and over to align the bolts and did that standing in front of the car so i could manipulate the parts. i did the front bolt first by hand and the rear one next. i was able to tighten them from the same place using a deep wall 1/4 socket and ratchet.
i did use the 1/4" drive on the rear bolts too to tighten the bottom rear because its the narrowest to use. i also use warble extensions (you need several lengths to get it right because the tranny shift bracket is in the way too. used a 4" i think it was. could go out to measure it. you can not get a straight line to these rear bolts and only two in the front get a straight line to them.i did use the crows foot to break that rear bottom bold loose tho on the 3/8" warble extension and then was able to use my hand to remove the bolt. when putting that bolt in, you have to get it started while the ecp is at the furthest point up and away (i used a exhaust pipe bolt to keep the ecp pipe from slipping off the raised manifold pipe for safety) and get them all started except he rear top has no real clearance to hand start. so you have to pull the safety bolt and start walking the ecp pipe back down to get the rear top to be able to start. to get the heater hose off the rear tube, i used a razor knife and cut a short slit from the top down about one inch, knowing i can cut it square latter to reassemble it.

the main key is to be able to walk the pipe up and down when needed. i also used a mason hammer at certain points to hold the ecp at a certain height. the square end of it is a perfect shim when walking the pipe back down at times.

when i spoke to stan on the phone he mentioned cutting some bolts down to make them easier to fit. i was ok w/o cutting any until i went to bolt on the front motor mount that bolts to the side of the engine. i forgot to put it back on before the ecp. so the top bolt was about 3/4" too long (hits the goose neck) to reuse and i was NOT going to remove the ecp to install it first, so i cut it with a saws all and it worked out just fine. after deciding to leave the cwp in place to change out the gaskets, the front motor mount did not have to come off any way.
if you think your back can take 12 hours leaning and this job testing you will and patience, then you have the info to be able to do it. would be best served up in summer time and with zero pressure to get it done. i had a time factor to get it done because of working in the weather. today is minus 20 degree winds and i wasn't going to be working on it in those temps. all week long is supposed to be like that. so yesterday 12/04/14 was my last day. the wife kept saying quit and finish later, but i knew there was no later any time soon.

the gaskets are;
fel-pro 35722 water out let. you need to buy 3 of these. i paid 6$ each.
fel-pro 70788 egr gasket. i paid 1.94$

one other note, when i was starting to take off the manifold, i took out the egr tube and it was plugged almost. had a tiny hole left to breath thru.

the car has 250K miles in it and a lot of wet suit from by pass gas from oil maybe. no smoke comes out of the exhaust pipe tho, but we have to add once and a while between oil changes. also the o-ring gasket on the end of that tube was in bad shape and i bought the intake mainifold gasket
kit. was 6$ for those and came with the egr gasket. so it depends on if you want to replace that gasket if you want this gasket kit. if so then omit the egr gasket i mentioned above. you don't need two of them.
thats a fel-pro ms96359 intake manifold kit. looking at the box, it gives part #'s for each type, so the pipe o-ring # is 95768.
also, had to clean all the suit/by pass gas debris off the back of the tbi. used a can of carb cleaner and a tooth brush. was caked on heavy like the inside of the manifold is too. best to clean out that tube at least. it was hardened suit. i used a needle nose pliers to break it up with the tip and then the side of jaw to cut into the suit on side of the pipe deeper in.
used pb blaster on the exhaust bolts and a 1/2" impact from the underside to get them out. came out easy like that.

so good luck to those who are unfortunate enough to need this topic here. it is do-able, but no fun at all. saved us up to 1500$ , so was worth it.

hope you are inside or doing it in warmer conditions!
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Old 01-05-2015, 02:28 PM   #59
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Re: Replacing the coolant crossover pipe

Quote:
Originally Posted by 3300 View Post
thanks stan for starting this post and for the pointers on the telephone a few days ago! very kind of you to take that extra time on the phone and it

!
I received a message today in my e-mail account from this post. It's been a little over three years since I've sold both Intrigues and in a way I still miss the big GM comfort.

However, I don't miss dealing with the LX5 Engine design. I'm glad it worked out for you, you were braver than I would ever be.

I now own a Cruze 1.4L 4 cylinder. To hear people complain about engine access to this 4 cylinder makes me laugh. Nothing like the larger V6 DOHC GM designs like the LX5.

Anyway happy new year to anyone that I used to work with LittleHoov and Panzer Dragon.

I still have OEM spark plugs and a 4T65 Shift kit for this transmission that was never installed. PM me if interested.

Take care Intriger's. I miss it, and I miss it even more at gas under $2.00!
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2000 Oldsmobile Intrigue, 3.5L, GX --81,000 Miles sitting in garage awaiting shift kit P1811, and potential water crossover gasket repair.
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Old 01-05-2015, 07:09 PM   #60
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Re: Replacing the coolant crossover pipe

3300, thank you for the kind words. It was my pleasure to interact with you on the phone and share my thoughts on my repair. I posted the original article in hopes of helping someone else. I did not realize how many people would come to reference it in their own repair. I have received numerous emails and phone calls about my post. Thank you to all who have also shared their experiences with this repair. It definitely isn't for the faint of heart. Keep posting guys!
Stan
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