95 LXI Tachometer Problems

[CorradoKidd]

The problem is, the thing doesn't work! Anyone know if there are any common problems related to its failure? Or where/how I can track the RPM signal?

[95LXI]

There has been alot of these cars with the same problem something about cold soldering, maybe this will help you.

Instructions to repair a non-functional odometer and tachometer on a Chrysler Sebring JXi, Chrysler Cirrus/Dodge Stratus

Total time to fix is about 2 hours if you are comfortable with using a soldering pen and disassembly of interior components.

1. Disconnect the negative battery terminal

2. Remove the trim around the radio and temperature controls. This just pops out, being held by four clips.

3. Remove the fuse cover on the left end of dash.

4. Remove one (1) dash cover screw from inside fuse area

5. Remove four (4) dash cover screws from the radio and temp control
area. There are two on each side.

6. Lower the steering wheel to the lowest position and remove the two screws just below the instruments

7. Remove the dash cover by pulling straight out. There are four (4) clips that must be carefully disengaged. I found that when pulling the cover straight towards me while sitting in the driver's seat, the clips disengaged very easily. (Note: if your car is equipped with the temp/directional computer you will need to pull the dash cover away about 2-4 inches. Then reach up through the radio/temp control area and disconnect the plug that attaches to the temp/directional computer). Set dash cover aside, being careful not to scratch it.

8. Remove the instrument cluster by removing four (4) screws (two on top and bottom). Now pull straight out on the instrument cluster.

9. Disconnect the two plugs on the backside of the instrument cluster. Need to lift the built in plastic lock clip on top of male end connector (circuit board side).

10. Remove wiring from the instrument cluster. The wiring harness is covered by a foam-covered piece of tape. I cut this, and re-taped with electrical tape upon reassembly. You might be inclined to try and pull the tab holding the wiring harness out of the instrument cluster--my advice is don't. Instead, pull the tab away from the wiring harness. The tab is shaped like a "T" with the wiring harness attached to the upper part of the "T" with black electrical tape. I slid each part of the "T" out of the tape and left the tab in the instrument cluster. Now the instrument cluster is free from the vehicle. Be careful not to scratch the front of the instrument cluster. Whenever setting the cluster aside, be sure to do so with it facing upwards.

11. Remove the black "cardboard" backing to the instrument cluster that protects the circuit board. I think there were (4) silver colored screws that required a torx driver to remove.

12. Remove the circuit board from the instrument cluster. On the circuit board, you will see several silver colored screws, remove all of them. I want to say there are 8-10 total including the connector screws (2) on each also must be removed.

13. Investigate the circuit board for the resistors and darkened circuit board. You will see a cluster of three blue resistors (I think two of the numbers were R101 and R210) and the board around them will be slightly brown to black. Turn the circuit board over and you will see that the contacts have come loose or are broken all together. Also in this same area, on the backside, near these resistors is a contact that simply put, is a loop (comes through the board and connects with a solder point). The "loop" was broken away from the solder.

14. Unplug the circuit board from the instrument cluster.

15. Use a low voltage soldering pen to re-solder the resistors and that "loop" mentioned earlier.
There is also another way that can make for a solid, sure connection and that is use jumper wires soldered away from the joints of the resistors to connect the board traces. This eliminates the possibility of heat from the resistors causing the joints to fail later on.

16.Once cooled clean solder area with a Q tip and alcohol to remove any flux and reassemble. When reattaching the wiring to the "T" tab, just use new electrical tape.



By the way if you don't feel comfortable doing this fix, you can purchase a new board online(mopar parts from several different dealers) for $150-$165 range. and install yourself in less than an hour.

Good luck

[Satern]

You just answered all my questions. That is EXACTLY what happened to mine. I am about to solder them . I let you know if it worked.

[Satern]

This is the best reason to have a computer, Thanks you very much, you were right on the friggin money. It worked perfectly. Thanks again!!!

[slant6er]

Greetings, 95LXI: I found your solution to the tachometer/odometer issue interesting and I was hopeful it would solve my problem. No luck, unfortunately. I removed the printed circuit board and examined it for loose solder points but there are none. The area of the three blue resistors is brownish, looking perhaps slightly fried. But no bad solder. So, for me, what next? I have already tried two other circuit boards from a salvage yard. The first slavage board that I tried solved the odometer blackout, but the tachometer would still not wake up. The second salvage board that I picked up was for a Stratus; it did wake up the tachometer but it made a useless jumble of the transmission range selector and mileage readout. So no help there. There really is significant variation with these printed circuit boards and one must be careful selecting one from salvage sources. I am presently using the board that corrected the transmission range indicator. Can you suggest any further electronic troubleshooting that may help find the remaining problem with my printed circuit board? Short of going out after more salavaged boards.

[Skibjr]

I've had the same problem with my '97 Sebring since I bought it last November. I was dreading bringing her into the dealer and paying $80.00/hr. plus inflated parts charges when I thought I'd check the Web to see if, just possibly, any other Sebring owners had come across this issue. Suffice it to say, this is probably the most common problem with '97 Sebrings, and probably many other models/years sharing this particular instrument cluster's circuitry.

Due to some very kind forum members who left detailed instructions regarding how to fix this issue, I decided to give it a try. Since many members have expressed an interest in some pictures of the procedure, I thought I'd take a few while I was at it, and post them if I was successful.

Well, it's actually a very simple procedure, and only took me about 90 minutes, including the extra time to take the pix. My odometer and tach have worked flawlessly ever since. You may want to pick up a set of Torx screwdrivers or a set of hex-key wrenches before you start - you'll need them. You'll also need a small soldering iron, some 60-40 rosin core solder, some rubbing alcohol, and a few cotton swabs. I've shamelessly plagiarized the best of the posted procedures I used, added a few of my own observations, and distilled them into a pictorial step-by-step at the following link:

http://members.cox.net/dpeters30/97_sebring_dash.htm

Good luck!!

[slant6er]

Greetings, skibjr,
Thanks for the info on the printed circuit board repair. Congratulations on a very professional presentation. My story to date is that I eventually did successfully resolder the points. I took the cluster out again and looked at the points under a magnifying lens and could easily see the cracks in the solder. But without the magnification I didn't believe what I was seeing! Anyway, the repair held for several months but recurred. I was able to pick up a board cheap from a used parts outfit, much newer than my old one and not at all discolored. It's working fine and I'm wondering how long it will hold up before I have to go to work on it!

[notny41]

Skibjr - thank you for making it so easy for me to fix my tach problem. 95LXI - thank you also for all of the info.

Guys, I have a working tachometer again!!!!

It took less than an hour. I didn't need to unscrew any screws behind my steering column on my 95.

If there are any Cirrus owners in the Minneapolis/St. Paul Minnesota area that have problems with their tachometer. I will be glad to help you get yours working again. Just PM me.

What a great feeling to be able to fix something yourself!

P

me=

[bobbytac]

I joined this forum just so I could say THANK YOU to 95lxi for his great post! I followed his instructions and was able to get my tach and odometer working again! Thank you.