Automotive Forums .com - the leading automotive community online! Automotive Forums .com - the leading automotive community online!
Automotive Forums .com - the leading automotive community online! 
-
Latest | 0 Rplys
Go Back   Automotive Forums .com Car Chat > Mazda > B-Series/Bravo/Bounty/Drifter
B-Series/Bravo/Bounty/Drifter Bravo is the Australian vesion, Bounty the New Zealand version and Drifter the South African version.
Reply Show Printable Version Show Printable Version | Email this Page Email this Page | Subscription Subscribe to this Thread
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 08-25-2013, 05:35 PM   #31
B1600 Maniac
AF Newbie
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Fort Mohave, Arizona
Posts: 5
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Send a message via Skype™ to B1600 Maniac
Re: vintage Mazda B-Series pickups from 1972-1984

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul....php?t=1091600 See this thread on my 1973 Mazda NA B1600 Please
B1600 Maniac is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-02-2013, 09:21 PM   #32
B1600 Maniac
AF Newbie
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Fort Mohave, Arizona
Posts: 5
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Send a message via Skype™ to B1600 Maniac
Re: vintage Mazda B-Series pickups from 1972-1984

Quote:
Originally Posted by bryansuncentral View Post
Hi! It's me again! I have a little problem. When I turn the ignition key, the starter turns, but when I release the key the truck dies. I can wiggle the key and it will stay running. I took the ignition cylinder (round white plastic thing with wires) out of the key switch & tried it that way and got the same results. I think the problem is in the plastic part with the wires. Maybe the contacts are too worn inside of it. Has any body had this problem before. Does anyone have an extra one lying around?
The ignition ballast resistor could be bad. In the start circuit it is by-passed to get more voltage to the ignition circuit due to the voltage drop when the starter motor runs. Takes a lot of amperage to run a starter and thus the voltage drop to the ignition (and everything else) when turning the starter motor.
B1600 Maniac is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-09-2016, 06:37 PM   #33
pishtra
AF Newbie
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: tustin, California
Posts: 2
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Re: vintage Mazda B-Series pickups from 1972-1984

I got an 82 B2000 baseline pickup. Runs like a champ, looks like a beat dog. Needs a catalytic convertor to smog. NOS carb, decked head, new rings, anti-backfire valve, distributor vacuum advance, tires. All new vacuum lines. New bench seat, trans bushing. I need to know what a good running carb idle screw is set at , ie. 1.5 turns out or ??? Im running a NOS carb and have no vacuum leaks anywhere. Im running high HC and high CO2 at the 15mph test but poss at the 25mph test. plugs are new as well as plug wires test ok on OHM meter. Going to put MSD on the ignition to help low speed combustion.
pishtra is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-09-2016, 07:12 PM   #34
B1600 Maniac
AF Newbie
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Fort Mohave, Arizona
Posts: 5
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Send a message via Skype™ to B1600 Maniac
Re: vintage Mazda B-Series pickups from 1972-1984

I moved from CA in 1990 to NW Arizona. No smog checks here. Back in the day when it came time to smog, I would pull my Mallory Dual Point Mechanical Advance distributor and Weber 32/36 DGV Carb off and put the stock Hitachi Carb and stock single point vacuum advance distributor back in. 1 1/2 - 2 turns on the idle screw (Tuning by ear, backing it out from seated until it wouldn't gain idle, turning it back in until the idle just increased, then backed it out a 1/8 turn. It usually ended up somewhere between 1 1/2 - 2 turns out.) and take it for a smog check. No cat or smog pump, etc. on the 1973 B1600. The smog tech might tweak the idle screw a bit and then pass it. Sometimes too lean an idle will raise HC. If it is still points & condenser, I suggest changing to a Petronix Ignitor that makes your distributor an electronic type. No pitting points or gap to worry about. Around $50 - $60. Hope any of this helps!
B1600 Maniac is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-11-2016, 11:22 AM   #35
pishtra
AF Newbie
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: tustin, California
Posts: 2
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Re: vintage Mazda B-Series pickups from 1972-1984

Thanks, will check screw and report where it's at. It's a rebuilt electronic stock distributor. 82 was a Nikki 2bbl. I believe it's a cat issue so well see if the carb is out of whack. 72 is exempt now so that would be easy.
pishtra is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-18-2016, 03:11 PM   #36
fantaorangesoda
AF Newbie
 
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: austin, Texas
Posts: 1
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Re: vintage Mazda B-Series pickups from 1972-1984

hey, I have a 74 b1600 it's pretty new to me and am trying to find out if there are any disk brake conversions for this truck i've got all drums and no booster and it stops pretty poorly. dose anyone know if any newer model brake parts would fit on my 74?
fantaorangesoda is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-18-2016, 04:20 PM   #37
B1600 Maniac
AF Newbie
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Fort Mohave, Arizona
Posts: 5
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Send a message via Skype™ to B1600 Maniac
Re: vintage Mazda B-Series pickups from 1972-1984

I think the 76 Courier had disk brakes. I took its .5" longer and .040" larger wire diameter front coil springs and stuffed them in my 73 B1600. I had to modify the upper A arm shafts to allow for camber adjustment because the springs raised the front end over an inch and there wasn't enough camber adjustment to get the front wheels even close to zero degrees.
I know the 77 & 78 B1800 trucks had disk brakes. I doubt, in any case, that it would be a straight up bolt on conversion to a 74 B1600. The A arms, spindles, and springs will be different and probably require some mounting changes. Also the proportioning valve and Master Cylinder would have to be changed.
My 73 B1600 stops great, unless I make repeated hard stops (then the linings heat up and I get brake "fade") or heavy towing and loads are encountered.
Possibly your hydraulics are week or the brakes are out of adjustment. Each wheel has 2 wheel cylinders that are NOT auto-adjust. The fronts are single acting wheel cylinders and the rear are double acting wheel cylinders. If they are not leaking, I would check the proportioning valve piston to see if it is stuck. Also the Master Cylinder could be internally by-passing fluid. With good, clean, dry drums, good hydraulics, good brake shoe linings, and adjusted brakes the truck brake pedal should be almost at the top with a firm pedal and not much travel to stop the truck in a straight line just fine...
Hope this helps some!
B1600 Maniac is offline   Reply With Quote
 
Reply

POST REPLY TO THIS THREAD


Bookmarks
Go Back   Automotive Forums .com Car Chat > Mazda > B-Series/Bravo/Bounty/Drifter

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 08:26 PM.

Community Participation Guidelines | How to use your User Control Panel

Powered by: vBulletin | Copyright Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
 
 
no new posts