Fuel Pump Replacement

[XWrench3]

Check the RPO codes in the glove box for K53, (very rare option).

where in the glove box? i do not see anything?! its a 2000 jimmy 2 door 4wd

[old_master]

Might be in a door jamb, maybe even the rear hatch. White sticker about 2.5" by 4.5" with the VIN and a bunch of 3 character codes. Look for "K53", if it's not there, you don't have the "robust fuel" option.

[XWrench3]

thanks old master! i found it. i have 2 "k" codes, k34 and k65 or k66, somehow it got scratched and i am not sure which it is. but at least it is not the one for the robust fuel system. not, to get a pump. would you recommend anything else to replace while i am at it?

[MT-2500]

Originally Posted by XWrench3

where in the glove box? i do not see anything?! its a 2000 jimmy 2 door 4wd

Replace with a 2 door pump.
Always replace with a AC Delco/Delphi fuel pump.
Replace filter and fuel fump fuse and some pumps require a wiring plugin replacement.
And check bottom of tank for dirt/rust/water.
If any clean tank out.
Check with parts place when you get your fuel pump on/for wiring change over..
Good luck and let use know how it goes.

[old_master]

Here's an AC Delco module on Amazon for half the price and free shipping:

http://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-MU1755...5445074&sr=8-1

It will come with the new style electrical connector and it must be soldered on using rosin core solder, then insulate it with heat shrink tubing. DO NOT use the crimp style connectors that come in the package.

[XWrench3]

[QUOTEReplace with a 2 door pump.
Always replace with a AC Delco/Delphi fuel pump.][/quote]

is there a difference between an ac delco and delphi? ac delco used to be the oem supplier for GM, but i know of Delphi because an uncle used to work for GM, and they changed the name to Delphi. i don't know much about what the differences were. is Delphi the oem supplier now? is there an appreciable difference between the two?
also, this is a two door model, and i noticed there is a different p/n, so i have to assume there is a difference in the assembly someplace. and i have no intentions of trying to find out what. i am figuring that the price difference is because they sell a lot more 4 door versions than 2 door. this has been a lot of trouble getting the tank out, and i do not want to have to do it again. one other question that popped up is if just the pump is available separately, as opposed to the entire unit. i would think if just the pump is available, it would be substantially less expensive. $500.00 used to buy a half way decent driver car, now it will hardly buy a pump. i am pretty sure someone is making a lot of money from parts that are no where near this expensive to build.

[old_master]

I'm pretty sure AC Delco and Delphi modules are made by the same manufacturer. If I'm wrong, someone will correct me

Due to the shorter wheel base, 2 door fuel tanks are mounted in the center of the vehicle, behind the rear axle. The 4 door tanks are mounted to the inside of the frame rail, just in front of the rear axle. Different tank configuration requires different pump module. The MU1755 is the correct module for your 2000 2 door. Gotta be careful with online parts, some places are very clever & deceiving in their ads and make you THINK you're getting an AC Delco at a cheap price. When in fact you're getting some inferior piece of junk module from overseas

The pump can be serviced separately from the module however, the fuel level sender and the fuel tank pressure switch, are both common failure parts as well, and they're included with the module. As long as you've got the tank down and the module out, do it once and forget about it. $175 for all that "piece of mind" is cheap.

[XWrench3]

well, to save money i bought a fuel pump kit, instead of an entire module. i had to do it, or not be able to do the repair for a couple of months. so everything is going along alright, until i try to put the pressure hose onto the top of the module. no mater what i do, i can not get it fully seated. i tried immersing the hose in boiling water, after of course putting petroleum jelly on the inside of the pipe and on the barb. i have tried repeatedly streaching the pipe out with a tapered punch with heat. i can get it just over the second barb, but not all the way to the top like the factory one was. my only thought is to try to epoxy the hose on, and prey it doesn't come off after it dries. the only thing i have not tried is immersing the tube in boiling oil, or direct flame to the pipe. i am 99.9% certain that a direct flame wil ruin the pipe. so i am not going to do that. my fear about using hot oil is getting to much heat into the pipe making it brittle. there has to be 20 ways to connect the pump to the module, why do they always have to choose the most difficult? before i smear a bunch of jb weld all over the inside of this thing, does anyone have any ideas?

[XWrench3]

WELL, i finished the replacement yesterday, the truck started right up and ran great. no visable leaks, with the 9 gallons i had at home, so i figured i had better go fill it up and make sure there were no leaks. after sitting all night with a full tank, no leaks. so i figured i was all set. WRONG! i got a whopping 26.7 miles, and the truck died. i can hear the pump run, but there is not enough pressure to let the engine run. i am going to have to go spend $50-60.00 tomorrow on a pressure tester, to find out if there is ANY pressure, and if so how much. so now i am going to have to repeat the job, which excites me almost as much as having my head placed in a guillotine! at this point i dont know if it was something i did wrong, or if the pump is defective. but i know i am going to have a pressure reading before i can even try to get a warranty replacement pump, if that is the problem.

[old_master]

Advance auto parts has a nice one: http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...CGRP2020A_____

Closest stores to you are Fremont & Rockford.

Harbor Freight has one for around $20, but not near the quality.

[XWrench3]

i was talking with a neighbor who had several s-10 type vehicles. the last one he had was a 1996 blazer. he said that he put 5 fuel pumps in it, all of them ac delco, after the second replacement, he cut the floor out of the cargo area so it would be a lot easier to replace. i actually thought about doing that this time, on my first replacement pump. if the sheet metal was flat, i WOULD have. but the only way i can think of making a decent patch would be to get a chunk cut out of another vehicle that was larger. i have to admit, unbolting the box on a pickup is easier than dropping a tank. if this is going to be a recurring problem, i am wondering if maybe i should get a piece cut out of another vehicle, and keep a spare pump in the truck!

[XWrench3]

i was also wondering if someone makes an electric fuel pressure gauge that could be mounted below the dash permanently. maybe connect to the test port? i would not want to try to cut lines to install one. if it was not gasoline, i would just use a mechanical oil pressure gauge. but i have had lines break before, and 60+ psi of gasoline spraying inside of the truck is straight up suicide!

[old_master]

Five pumps, wow, probably a poor ground or poor connection at the module connector. Both are fairly common, along with a restricted fuel filter. Those are about the only things that will toast a pump prematurely. Provided the pump has a good ground and good connections, the AC Delco pumps are good for 100K miles. As for the fuel pressure monitor in the cab: I've often thought about that. The only safe way to do it is like you mentioned, electronic sender to a gauge in the dash. Some vehicle manufacturers have been using that technology for several years. It allows the PCM to monitor fuel pressure and some scan tools can view it directly. As far as cutting an access hole... there are several members here on AF that have done it... it's your vehicle

[XWrench3]

what regulates the fuel pressure on one of these? and where is the regulator located. i thought about that. wondering if maybe something happened and it is letting the pressure return to the tank. the pump runs, but the truck just died and will not restart.

[old_master]

The fuel pump output pressure is between 75psi and 108psi. Pressurized fuel goes through the filter, across the injectors and to the fuel pressure regulator. The regulator and injectors are inside the plenum. The regulator is a very simple design and rarely fails on 96 and newer CSFI systems, (like yours). The regulator has a spring loaded rubber diaphragm, and a valve to allow unused fuel back to the tank when regulating pressure between 60psi & 66psi.