Clutch pedal sticks after about 15 minutes of driving.

[Machaon]

I'll drive my 2000 Ford Ranger, 4cyl XLT about 5 miles to the store without a problem. On the way home, after a few miles, the clutch pedal will either jam at the top, or go all the way to the floor without engaging the clutch. If I wait 5 or 10 minutes, the clutch pedal will start working again for a short time.

If I feel the clutch pedal starting to misbehave, if I ride the clutch and don't release the clutch pedal all the way, and if I don't push the clutch pedal all the way down, I can keep driving the truck. As soon as I release the clutch pedal, it will jam up again, or the clutch pedal will go all the way to the floor without engaging the clutch. I don't like riding the clutch, but that seems to be the only way to get home once the clutch pedal starts jamming.

Any ideas? It certainly seems related to the engine warming, or heating up. Sometimes, after the clutch jams up, I'll wait 5-10 minutes and the clutch pedal will start working as if nothing every happened. So, it can't be strictly a hot engine, hot clutch fluid issue, right?

What would you attempt to replace first, the Slave Cylinder? The Master? Changing the fluid? Shooting the truck!?

[rhandwor]

I believe you have to pull the transmission to replace the slave cylinder. Check the fluid level first. Then try bleeding the system.

[tonysilva530]

First, try bleeding the system.....if that doesn't solve your problem, look for any hairline cracks in the metal tubing and connections. I once had this problem.....turned out to be a super tiny crack near a connection. The crack was so small, it was not letting any fluid out, but it was just big enough to allow air into the system. Air would get into the system and cause the clutch to not operate correctly. If I waited a while, the air would rise up into the reservoir, out of the line and the clutch would work again for a short time.

If you have to replace the slave cylinder, be prepared to do some grinding............ because the 'two-piece' cross member under the front section of the tranny has 4 massive rivets (as well as nuts/bolts) attaching it to the frame.....the rivets have to be removed......not enough room to drill them out......I use a 4 inch angle grinder whenever I pull trannys out of these vehicles, but even with that type of grinder, the space is limited, but it's do-able.

[Machaon]

Thanks, rhandwor, for responding.

I really don't want to attempt any major repairs unless I am 100% sure that the repair will solve my clutch problem. I don't want to go on an auto repair merry-go-round that takes a lot of time, effort, money and aggravation.

I can live with just taking short drives, since I am retired and, basically, only need to travel to Publix and back. For longer drives I use Uber.

But... thanks for taking the time to respond. I just noticed, with much surprise, that there were responses to my clutch problem!

[Machaon]

Originally Posted by tonysilva530

First, try bleeding the system.....

I have read that most repair shops do not bleed the clutch thoroughly. How do I insure that they do a good job?

if that doesn't solve your problem, look for any hairline cracks in the metal tubing and connections.

Thanks for this suggestion! I would never have thought of that!

If you have to replace the slave cylinder, be prepared to do some grinding.

I am 71 and am way past my grinding days!

I've lived with this clutch problem years. It doesn't seem to be getting worse. I would love it fixed, but can live with taking short drives, and using ride sharing for longer, infrequent trips.

A good quality car repair shop, that I trust 100%, is, unfortunately, quite a drive for my Ford Ranger. I just don't trust them to find the problem with the first clutch bleed, or cylinder replacement.

My 2000 Ford Ranger 4cyl, base cab, XLT has NEVER been in a repair shop. I just don't trust repair shops to not mess with my truck and not deliberately cause new problems.

It's a 16 year old Ford Ranger, with ice cold AC, and runs like a dream, except for the DARN clutch pedal!

But, I will look into your hairline crack suggestion!

Thank for taking the time to respond!

[brcidd]

Last one I saw that acted like this had the firewall flexing where the clutch cylinder mounted- due to rust- basically worthless when that happens- hopefully your firewall mount is not flexing....

[MikeCStig]

Checking the hydraulic components that operate the clutch is definitely a good start and I sincerely hope that works because if not, you may be experiencing the gradual downfall of the clutch itself burning out (a problem that riding the clutch often causes anyway.) or possibly the throwout bearing going bad.

[Machaon]

Originally Posted by brcidd

Last one I saw that acted like this had the firewall flexing where the clutch cylinder mounted- due to rust-

Thanks! I will check the master cylinder in regards to the firewall.

[Machaon]

Originally Posted by MikeCStig

Checking the hydraulic components that operate the clutch is definitely a good start

Thanks for the suggestion.

Originally Posted by MikeCStig

... and I sincerely hope that works because if not, you may be experiencing the gradual downfall of the clutch itself burning out ...

I'm just using the Ranger for short trips, like to the grocery. I use ride-sharing services for infrequent, longer trips, so I won't put my truck into a situation where I have to ride the clutch. I am just lucky that I haven't burned out the clutch by now. It works great. But, the clutch fluid has become kinda dirty, probably from past riding of the clutch.

I posted this thread hoping to learn a little more about my clutch, which I did. Bottom line: If I just use the truck for short trips, it should outlive me, and it is acceptable, but not ideal.

[Machaon]

I've discovered that, if I don't push the clutch pedal all the way to the floor, the pedal will not stick. So... when I change gears, I push the clutch pedal down around 90% of the way without jamming problems.

The truck will also start with the pedal only depressed about 90%.

Once I drive for a while, and I push the clutch pedal all the way down to the floor, it jams and stays jammed for anywhere from 10 minutes to an hour or more.

So... my choice is either expensive clutch repairs; or not depressing the clutch pedal all the way to the floor after the truck heats up and the clutch pedal starts to stick.

Seems to be working acceptably.