if you are having the dam Limp in mode problem Read this

[thowell]

Just a thought that I had and it worked after a ton of things I tryed
I have replaced the output and input sensors as well as the TCM and solinoids on my 92 caravan 3.3 A604 crap and after all that still had problems.
This is what I did today and so far all is geat
I replaced my TPS althought my old one is still good
I looked it up and it is supose to have 0.45-0.55 volts at idle. At that setting it goes into limp sitting still at a light or in traffic , So I bumped up the voltage by moving the TPS until it was at 0.88 still under a volt and it now works great. Not sure if it will work for all but so far it worked for me.
If you want to know more of the crap I have gone through just ask away I will be glad to try to help
T

well 2 days and all is perfect

[zenic]

Just curious,

How did you up the voltage to the Throttle position sensor?

Thanks,

BTW, I'm having the same limp in stuck in 2nd gear mode with my caravan. It shows no codes....

ed

[thowell]

If you put a meter on the output side of the tps u can turn it up enough to get up to .99 volt at idle. but u may have to remove one of the hold down screws if you need it that high I know I had to but it still has not moved with one tight hold down screw
T

P>S> you have to have the codes read you will not get tranny codes from the check engine light

[95voyager]

3.3L (1995 Voyager and others)-

Three oxidized or fouled multipin connectors for engine and transmission control modules were the cause and cleaning them was the cure for engine not starting (engine cranking but not hearing the fuel pump come on) AND transmission limp mode, and I recommend checking these first before anything else- they are located:

1. against the firewall on passenger side (above the alternator)
2. on transmission housing- find the transmission dipstick and look straight down below
3. next to battery against the driver's side inner front fender (easy access once battery is removed)

All three use a black plastic cover with a 5/16 head bolt to draw the multipin connector to and from the mating contacts, allowing equal positioning and minimizing misalignment. I sprayed both the male and female connectors with the cleaner and just used a paperclip wrapped with a single wrap of a piece of paper towel also soaked with cleaner to clean the male contacts one at a time- then bent an end of the paperclip open and wrapped with a single wrap to clean the female contacts...clean and change the piece of paper towel with every contact you clean. DO NOT TRY TO SAND OR SCRAPE THE CONTACTS WITH ABRASIVES OR METAL, it is important to avoid damaging the plating otherwise you will likely end up with bad connectivity and possible burned / overheated contacts, there is no reason to have this happen.

I would also say remove the fuse box cover, on the driver's side inner front fender, next to the windshield washer reservoir- and remove the trans fuse and relay (the positions are marked on the inner side of the fuse box lid) and clean the contacts just on the fuse and relay, I found varnish on these, maybe even swap the relay with any of the other in the box, are all the same type.

I wish I had tried all this first as I probably didn't need to have the trans replaced with a used one- the symptoms had come back about a year afterward in the same way...now these problems have all disappeared. Hope this helps!

[RIP]

Thanks for posting but you would have been far better off posting this as a new thread. More will see it.