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Old 02-11-2010, 05:08 PM   #16
maxwku
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Re: Starting issue

Guys, I have been really busy traveling back and forth for work and have not been able to take the car to the mechanic. But today a “new” symptom appeared. Today on the interstate the gas pedal stopped working. I was going 70mph and noticed my car slowing down, I gave it gas and nothing happened. I had enough momentum to pull to the side and came to a stop, and then I noticed the engine was still running and rpms were holding! The car was still in drive, I tried to give it gas and nothing happened, then I floored it and nothing happened (except for a check engine light came on). I put the car in park turned it off and started it back up, and the car worked fine, and has been working since this morning. I took the car to AutoZone and had them hook up an OBDII, and it gave me a P2135 code. That is the throttle positioning sensor.

I did some looking on line and found one site that, “that code would require the throttle assembly to be replaced and relearned.” I’m not sure what that means, but I know the throttle assembly is about 500 bucks. My other option is to replace the throttle positioning sensor alone. What do you guys think, am I even on the right track? What about the IAC, or fuel pump (remember the car did not die).
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Old 02-12-2010, 10:42 AM   #17
skeeter123
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Re: Starting issue

RockAuto.com has throttle body (electric throttle control actuator)

A-1 CARDONE Part # 670005 A-1 CARDONE Part # 670005

for $90. But they also have a separate throttle position sensor listed under their "emissions" section of parts. I'm not sure if '04 sentra 1.8s have separate TPS or combined TPS/throttle actuator. You could get p/n off yours to make sure.

Also, from service manual:

page EC-47
Accelerator Pedal Released Position Learning UBS00B2V
DESCRIPTION
Accelerator Pedal Released Position Learning is an operation to learn the fully released position of the accelerator pedal by monitoring the accelerator pedal position sensor output signal. It must be performed each time harness connector of accelerator pedal position sensor or ECM is disconnected.
OPERATION PROCEDURE
1. Make sure that accelerator pedal is fully released.
2. Turn ignition switch ON and wait at least 2 seconds.
3. Turn ignition switch OFF wait at least 10 seconds.
4. Turn ignition switch ON and wait at least 2 seconds.
5. Turn ignition switch OFF wait at least 10 seconds.

Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning UBS00B2W
DESCRIPTION
Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning is an operation to learn the fully closed position of the throttle valve by monitoring the throttle position sensor output signal. It must be performed each time harness connector of electric throttle control actuator of ECM is disconnected.
OPERATION PROCEDURE
1. Make sure that accelerator pedal is fully released.
2. Turn ignition switch ON.
3. Turn ignition switch OFF wait at least 10 seconds.
Make sure that throttle valve moves during above 10 seconds by confirming the operating sound.


The manual has procedure for checking output of TPS; there's actually two sensors TPS1 and TPS2, they should put out 0.36-4.75 volts (S1) and vice-versa for (S2) as throttle goes from full-closed to full-open.

Manual also says to check/clean the two engine grounds on the back of the intake manifold, always a good idea with sentras.
Hope this helps.
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Old 02-26-2010, 10:17 PM   #18
maxwku
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Re: Starting issue

Alright I bought a throttle positioning sensor (71 bucks Advanced Auto Zone). I tried to replace it myself, but there seems to be 4 rivets holding the housing of the sensor on. Except they are not rivets, a website says they are “special torque bit set up.” I tried to find out what kind of tool I need to remove them but I’m having trouble. Any suggestion on what I need to removed these “rivets”?

Thanks.
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Old 02-27-2010, 10:57 AM   #19
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Re: Starting issue

Quote:
Originally Posted by maxwku View Post
Alright I bought a throttle positioning sensor (71 bucks Advanced Auto Zone). I tried to replace it myself, but there seems to be 4 rivets holding the housing of the sensor on. Except they are not rivets, a website says they are “special torque bit set up.” I tried to find out what kind of tool I need to remove them but I’m having trouble. Any suggestion on what I need to removed these “rivets”?

Thanks.
Is it a torx with a round stud in the middle? If yes, it is a torx tamper proof security screw (the maf uses the same type of fastener). There are special bit sets you can get to remove them. I have seen people knock out the center stud with a small pin punch and then use a regular torx driver.
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Old 02-27-2010, 05:05 PM   #20
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Re: Starting issue

They turned out to be rivets; I was able to take them all out. But now I have a new issue, I can’t find the throttle positioning sensor. There is a black housing next to the firewall, down flow of the MAF. That is where I thought the throttle positioning sensor should be. I removed the cover as mentioned above and all I saw was gears inside but no sensor, nothing that matched what I have purchased. I bought the sensor so I know what I need to look for, but I have not been able to find it. Can any one tell me where this sensor is at because I just can’t find it?
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Old 03-05-2010, 07:34 AM   #21
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Re: Starting issue

Alright here is an update. I took the car to a mechanic, it turns out that my engine (1.8 S) does not have a standalone throttle positioning sensor; it is built in the throttle body. This is why I could not find it. The Mechanic replaced the whole throttle body. The car seems to be running just fine at first, the starting issues went away the car starts right up without acting like it going to die (sometimes actually dying), and the gas pedal feels way more sensitive. The problem now is when I start the car it revs up to 2 rpms, I let the car sit there for a minute and it slowly comes down. Also when driving the rpm needle is not very smooth like it was, it jumps and jerks around. For example when I coast on the interstate the needle jumps down and up then down (I’m not giving it any gas just coasting/slowing down with not breaks). Then finally the check engine light came back on. I have not had the chance to read the code, but I’m really bummed it seemed to work, then the rmps got really jumpy and now the check engine light is back on.
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Old 03-08-2010, 08:04 AM   #22
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Re: Starting issue

You've got to check the codes, could be a vacuum line or sensor didn't get re-connected.
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Old 03-15-2010, 02:48 PM   #23
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Re: Starting issue

Alright so an update, took the car back to the mechanic, they tried to re-teach the ECU (the method mentioned by Skeeter123), but the car would not take. So they had to send it off to a dealer and they plugged it up and now it works almost just fine. See when we first got the car back in 2007 it has always had a particularly weird starting issue. It would take a long crank and the rpms would jump around, shaking the car for a second before the rpms would stabilize, and it always did it on short trips (basically once the car wormed up, overnight it starts right up). But it had never not started or died. Then 3 years later the starting issue began to get worse. The car would start dying, have starting troubles all the time (over night or over 1 hour rests didn’t matter), require pumping gas pedal to start, and finally gas pedal giving out on the road. Now after about 500 bucks and a new throttle body, its back to acting “fine”. And by fine I mean just like when we bought it in 2007 starts right up over night or long sitting time, but short runs (once wormed up) it hesitates. I almost feel like the original issue was never really addressed, but rather masked by the throttle body going bad. I don’t know I do know not to mess with this particular type or Nissan or the engine.
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