Help! how to apply kit decal around curved/sharp edges???

[trix25]

Alright i am in the middle of finishing up my Honda NSR 500 Nastro Azzurro bike kit (1st bike kit btw) however...what used to be the part i liked most about modelling has now turned into my most hated thing to do on a model kit. THE DECALS! i have no problem with flat surfaces but around edges and even on what i thought was gonna be easy which is the 2 wing decals on the tank ended up with a lot of cussing and hair pulling. (p.s. i've already gone through 2 sets of decals on this bike without success and my inability to decal around edges is really tormenting me from tackling any other projects with decals)

anyways, i've searched the forum and i've tried most of the tips that were given.
this is my process for appling decals. first, i apply Mr. Mark Softer (green label, how is this compared to Microsol???) on the base of the decal and slide the decal dipped in warm water into the section. i then proceed with using a q-tip to take off any extra water. however, during this time the decal is not all 100% conforming around the part which is when i use mr. mark softer again on the top of the decal (it sometimes cracks around the wrinkled area when i brush the mr. mark softer on the decal). i wait 5-10 mins to air dry (i've even used the hair dryer but that ends up just drying the decal with the wrinkles) and by this time the Mr. Mark Softer is wrinkling the decals almost to the point where it looks like it is eating up the decal. i then proceed to even out the wrinkles on the curved area with a q-tip slowly and gently but still it cracks. this is when all the cussing starts ...should i let the decal dry over a span of 30-1hr??? what should i do? did i put too much mr. mark softer? pretty much what the $#%!$^$# did i do wrong?

if someone can give me a helping hand and maybe provide a step by step DIY with pictures on a "how to apply kit decal around curved/sharp edges" it would be GREATLY appreciated. I will also forever be in debt to you and greet you as "God of Decals" from now on.

[Pippin1974]

Hi...
when I have to appliy decal around a curved edge what I do is to use a lot of microsol, I use a lamp that gives a lot of heat and with a paintbrush I start to make the curve with the decal, again more microsol and very near the lamp...you will see the decal getting the sharpe perfetly......hope you understand my poor english

[Tibi Keke]

Hi,
I tryed to write you once, but from some reasons i lost everyting i write to you. So here one more time and more compact.
Don't use Mr. Mark Softer when you apply the decals on the model!
Use Mr. Mark Setter or Microscale Micro Set or vinegar.
Let the decal dry first on the model. Once it's dryed, brush the solvent on the edges of the decal. Let him dry. Use more solvent if you see that your decal is not 100% conform to the surface. If you see some airbubbles take a sharp pin and prickle this point. Put more decal softer.
I personally us Micro set and Micro sol and it works best for me.
I hope it helps!
Good luck!

[935k3]

Forget about solvents! Try a hot damp cloth pressed over the decal, it will conform instantly with no wrinkles. Use hot damp Q-Tip for small areas.

[trix25]

Originally Posted by Tibi Keke

Hi,
I tryed to write you once, but from some reasons i lost everyting i write to you. So here one more time and more compact.
Don't use Mr. Mark Softer when you apply the decals on the model!
Use Mr. Mark Setter or Microscale Micro Set or vinegar.
Let the decal dry first on the model. Once it's dryed, brush the solvent on the edges of the decal. Let him dry. Use more solvent if you see that your decal is not 100% conform to the surface. If you see some airbubbles take a sharp pin and prickle this point. Put more decal softer.
I personally us Micro set and Micro sol and it works best for me.
I hope it helps!
Good luck!

so i should wait 20-25 for it to air dry between putting solvent on? and i do not directly put mr. mark softer on the top of the decal only the side?

also 935k3 i'll try the hot damp cloth...do i need to put much pressure on the decal thou?

[grundski]

A hot damp cloth doesn't work on all decals. (Scale Motorsport CF will not adhere or conform well with wet hot cloth)

I would put the decal down, put on the micro-sol (red label) or the Gunze immediately, after waiting a few seconds, use a hairdryer. It conforms instantly.

after the hairdryer let it sit for a bit if cuts are necessary. Right after the hairdryer, the decal is still soft so cutting at this time may damage the decal.

If you use Micro-Sol, I don't recommend poking it with a brush or any other tool except in body panels. You can damage it easily.

I would test with the decal printed at the bottom of the sheet. The text that says the car or who printed it or a decal that you won't be using.

[godfather23]

Originally Posted by 935k3

Forget about solvents! Try a hot damp cloth pressed over the decal, it will conform instantly with no wrinkles. Use hot damp Q-Tip for small areas.

Very true as I found out recently. The way you approach the decal issue depends immensly on the quality of decal you have to apply. If you have old and very weak decals (f.ex. late 90´s Revell decals) try to work everything out with the hot water clamp. I did the whole BMW M1 "Map de France" using this technique.

If you have stronger and better decals (f.ex. the mid 2000´s Tamiya Decals) you can use Microsol. Be careful. You might want to try on a decal that can be reworked easily...

So. No fast shooting. Take another thought and you will find the right way to do hard and extensive decal jobs - the best about modelling anyways...

Cheers



Robert

[trix25]

Originally Posted by godfather23

Very true as I found out recently. The way you approach the decal issue depends immensly on the quality of decal you have to apply. If you have old and very weak decals (f.ex. late 90´s Revell decals) try to work everything out with the hot water clamp. I did the whole BMW M1 "Map de France" using this technique.

If you have stronger and better decals (f.ex. the mid 2000´s Tamiya Decals) you can use Microsol. Be careful. You might want to try on a decal that can be reworked easily...

So. No fast shooting. Take another thought and you will find the right way to do hard and extensive decal jobs - the best about modelling anyways...

Cheers



Robert

hi robert thanks for the tip...anyways i just saw your decaling on the CLK DTM, incredible! just wondering if you can go more in detail regarding whether you cut any of the bigger decal and match it on the car? and when you use microsol do you use the technique as mentioned above? can you maybe go in detail on how you apply decal using the microsol? thanks

also is there any difference between Mr. Mark Softer and Microsol?

[Tibi Keke]

Hi,
The tips i give to you are the way i'm working and sofar is running everytime very well! You will see that many guys here have many techniques including those with hairdryer. But becarefull, if your hairdryer is to close you could melt the plastic!!! That happens to me once and i don't use'it anymore! So beware!
Regarding Micro sol, yes wait some minutes first that the decal is dry (or the setter evaporate) and after that brush Micro sol. Importent ! Use diferent brush for each! One for Setter and another one for Solvent!
If you use just water (distiled water!) and hairdryer here some tips from Tamiya, maybe it helps you more!
http://www.tamiya.com/english/howto/howto_top.htm
or a technique with hot q-tip here :
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-qhyo4Z50Po
(maybe you dont understand a word but follow the tehnique, it helps a lot!)
Here what i did with Micro set and sol :http://public.fotki.com/tibi22/revel.../dsc07128.html
Good luck!

[ketje]

Hey,

everyone has his own manner decalling. I will explain mine.

- First I will clean en clear the model to have a very smooth surface.
- Then I put the decal in warm water en wait untill it start to losen the paper
- After this I put the decal in place and use a paper towel to absorb most of the water on the model and decal. You will see that the decal will fasten to the model.
- Then I use a flat soft brush to wipe the decal . This will curve the decal to the model.
- Then I use a hair dryer to lightly dry the decal.
- After this I apply some daco softner (medium), I find this much better then the set and sol, and I'll wait a few minutes. The decal will get softer using the softner.
- Then I use another soft flat brush soaked in some water and wipe the decal again. This will thin the softner.
- After this I use the hairdryer again to dry the decal and let it form to the model.
- After fully drying I inspect the decal to see if there are airbubbles. If so I use a sharp blade to cut these.
- Now I will use the softner and do the whole method again untill satisfied.

Good luck