98 Intrigue new electrical problem

[Solonys]

This is a fun one. Three days ago I went to the corner store. When I went to turn in the parking lot, the left turn signal went to rapid flashing. I figured, great, bulb out. Front left not working on blink, no big deal, I have a bulb at home. Went home, forgot about it. Went to work the next day, works fine.

Fast forward to this morning. I go out, put the key in, turn it, nothing. SVS light, security light, trac off light all light up, and the SES light flashes intermittently. Instrument cluster says I have no gas, and odometer was slow to engage. Car wouldn't start at all, it attempted to crank, just for half a second, then stopped attempting to crank at all, even if you removed and re-inserted the key.

Since I got home from work, I have tried several times to start it. One time I got it to start; Tach was very unresponsive (sat at 200 rpms for at least 10 seconds while I had the engine revving until it finally woke up) and gas gauge still said no fuel. I turned off the car and tried to turn it over again, no go. Doesn't even attempt to crank now.

Battery is brand new (replaced 3 weeks ago) and still has lots of power; headlights and all electrical accessories that are not the instrument cluster have plenty of power. I took out the battery and placed it on a tester and it tests out fine. I also replaced the ignition switch assembly about 2 months ago.

I can't seem to find anything anywhere about this problem; I was under the impression that passlock cuts off fuel, and doesnt prevent the instrument cluster from working properly or the car from attempting to crank.

Anyone got any ideas?

Thanks in advance!

[tacosoldier]

Originally Posted by Solonys

This is a fun one. Three days ago I went to the corner store. When I went to turn in the parking lot, the left turn signal went to rapid flashing. I figured, great, bulb out. Front left not working on blink, no big deal, I have a bulb at home. Went home, forgot about it. Went to work the next day, works fine.

Fast forward to this morning. I go out, put the key in, turn it, nothing. SVS light, security light, trac off light all light up, and the SES light flashes intermittently. Instrument cluster says I have no gas, and odometer was slow to engage. Car wouldn't start at all, it attempted to crank, just for half a second, then stopped attempting to crank at all, even if you removed and re-inserted the key.

Since I got home from work, I have tried several times to start it. One time I got it to start; Tach was very unresponsive (sat at 200 rpms for at least 10 seconds while I had the engine revving until it finally woke up) and gas gauge still said no fuel. I turned off the car and tried to turn it over again, no go. Doesn't even attempt to crank now.

Battery is brand new (replaced 3 weeks ago) and still has lots of power; headlights and all electrical accessories that are not the instrument cluster have plenty of power. I took out the battery and placed it on a tester and it tests out fine. I also replaced the ignition switch assembly about 2 months ago.

I can't seem to find anything anywhere about this problem; I was under the impression that passlock cuts off fuel, and doesnt prevent the instrument cluster from working properly or the car from attempting to crank.

Anyone got any ideas?

Thanks in advance!

It could very well be the key cylinder of the ignition switch. If the security light stays after the other instrument lights went off after attempting to start the car, leave the key in the on position for at least 10 minutes or until the security light shuts off. Once off, turn the key in the off position for about 5 seconds then make another attempt to crank the engine. You may have to repeat this process until it eventually turns over but this is only if the security is the problem. I had to do this several times till I replaced the key/lock cyclinder. It wouldnt hurt to check the wiring around the ignition switch, making sure there isnt any broken or loose wire(s) and that the electrical connector is tight and secure.
It could also be your starter, have you had it tested?
Also, there could be fuel delivery problems.

[procaddytech]

The SES light should stay on steady with the key in the run position with the engine off. It should only flash when the engine is running an a potential catalyst damaging misfire is occuring. SES is controlled by the PCM. The PCM also communicates the fuel level and the engine rpms to the IPC. The BCM and PCM control theft. When the BCM receives the proper passlock code it communicates to the PCM to enable the crank relay and fuel injectors. (will not crank with security fault) Sounds like you are having some communication/data line problems or a PCM problem. Especially with the SES flashing. Does the PRNDL indicator show the proper shifter position? If possible a DTC scan of ALL modules would help alot.

[Solonys]

Originally Posted by tacosoldier

It could very well be the key cylinder of the ignition switch. If the security light stays after the other instrument lights went off after attempting to start the car, leave the key in the on position for at least 10 minutes or until the security light shuts off. Once off, turn the key in the off position for about 5 seconds then make another attempt to crank the engine. You may have to repeat this process until it eventually turns over but this is only if the security is the problem. I had to do this several times till I replaced the key/lock cyclinder. It wouldnt hurt to check the wiring around the ignition switch, making sure there isnt any broken or loose wire(s) and that the electrical connector is tight and secure.
It could also be your starter, have you had it tested?
Also, there could be fuel delivery problems.

Fuel pump is working (can hear it switch on) and the starter is fine. I believe that the passlock sensor has gone to the great junkyard in the sky and I am going to bypass it tomorrow. The learn procedure doesn't do anything, sec light stays on no matter how long you leave the key in it.

[Solonys]

Update; The problem was caused by a faulty ignition switch, which I just replaced 2 months ago with a Dorman from RockAuto. The old ignition switch was replaced in an attempt to fix the auto-headlights and I still had it in my shop, so at least that didn't cost me an additional 60-70 bucks to get a new one that wasn't a dorman.