Coolant smell, but no visible leak. - Page 2

Airjer_ · 10-13-2009, 06:52 PM

Here's your photos

Airjer_ · 10-13-2009, 06:55 PM

I hate to say this but if you ran it at all with the oil that milky I would suggest getting a used engine. The lower ends on these are very sensitive to coolant being in the oil. You will likely end up with a lower end knock within a couple of months if the bearings have been compromised. If you make it past a couple of months than the chances get better for not having a terminal issue.

Mark_Pacheco · 10-15-2009, 12:36 PM

I've gotten the heads pulled off and the upper engine cleared of oil. The pan has been emptied and the engine has been draining for the last few days. The plan at this point is to finish pulling parts (oil pan & oil pump drive) and clean out as much of the oil as I can.

My neighbor, who works as a mechanic for a Chevy dealership, took a look at the block last night. He seems to think that the engine looks to be in pretty good shape and we couldn't find any metal shavings in the oil.

I'm concerned about the lower end as well, but I'm going to see if I can get lucky and squeeze a few more miles out of this engine before giving up on it. I'll know more this weekend and will keep you posted.

Airjer_ · 10-15-2009, 12:45 PM

Like I said you'll know within a couple months. You literally have about 6 more bolts and the engine is out. That is seriously a lot of milky oil. If I pulled the oil cap and saw that on a customers car I wouldn't give them any option besides replacing the motor.

manicmechanix · 10-15-2009, 03:29 PM

It's hard to make out in the pics but why is it that it looks like you still have your back rockers, pushrods, possibly valve cover and alternator and coil pack still attached? That is a lot of coolant in the engine, and you might want to have checked that the head gaskets were sealing. If the engine wasn't knocking any before you took it apart and you get all the coolant cleaned out, the engine probably will survive.

Mark_Pacheco · 10-17-2009, 09:10 PM

Pics were taken during the tear down. These were just the best at illustrating what I saw when I started taking her apart. Only things left to pull and clean at this point is the oil pan and pump. Of course the pan is refusing to budge. LOL wouldn't be a chevy otherwise!!!

Mark_Pacheco · 10-19-2009, 10:53 AM

Any suggestions on the easiest way to get the oil pan to clear the crank. I'm thinking of unbolting the motor mounts and lifting with an engine hoist. thoughts?

Mark_Pacheco · 10-24-2009, 10:06 PM

Did end up using an engine hoist and unbolting the passenger and front driver motor mounts. Did not find any shavings or fragments in the oil pan. Everything's been cleaned and reassembly has begun. I will keep everyone posted.

ChevMali99 · 10-25-2009, 04:38 PM

WOW!!! Awesome pics! You're quite the dare devil! Suddenly what I paid to get my car fixed doesn't seem to be much.

Mark_Pacheco · 11-02-2009, 09:12 AM

SUCCESS! Got the car started again yesterday. Runs well and I do need to chase down a fuel leak. I'm cautiously optimistic. Thanks for all the great feedback and assistance with this!

Airjer_ · 11-02-2009, 10:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mark_Pacheco

Runs well and I do need to chase down a fuel leak. I'm cautiously optimistic.

The next time you do the intake gaskets you don't need to disconnect the fuel lines. Leave them connected to the fuel rail. Remove the bolt that secures the lines to the bracket on the rear head. Then just swing the injectors/rail/lines out of the way.

Mark_Pacheco · 11-02-2009, 09:17 PM

Curious. I have the upper intake off again. Ignition is on the on position. No leak is evident. I can see fuel puddled on the lower intake from yesterday but that is all. So what would cause a fuel leak while driving? I ran through almost half a tank of gas in 10 miles! thoughts?

manicmechanix · 11-02-2009, 10:00 PM

I would think it'd have to be either at the fuel oring on the pressure line or the pressure regulator, or one of injector O-rings in the fuel rail. Check at all the oring locations.

Airjer_ · 11-02-2009, 10:26 PM

You might have to key it up several times to build pressure back into the rail.

Mark_Pacheco · 11-13-2009, 11:44 PM

Success. Finally ended up replacing upper and lower o-rings on the injectors and both fuel rail o-rings. Afterwards there was zero fuel flow to the rail. I tracked it back to the fuel pump and, after testing, dis-assembled the fuel pump to replace the pick-up filter since the screen was clear ($8 filter vs $265 fuel pump). That solved the pressure problem and the car started immediately. Did one final oil change after 100 miles and added a quart of oil conditioner for good measure. Everything seems to be fine now. No leaks, no smoke, no unusual noises. Now to wait and see....

Thanks for the help everyone.

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