Bow Before Thy Mater, Bitches (Pics/ My Project)

[CBFryman]

Horns....cost more, oh and they are more like Highs that can extend down unto the Mid's range...
Oh and from what ive been hearing about the RE comps.
They sound better sealed, but i havent heards anything about ported, than IB but they still sound good IB. They also get louder sealed, only problem is i dont know what Enclosure Q to aim for if i went sealed. oh and the tweeters are sapposed to be harsh as Horse shit mixed with sulfuric acid if they arent EQed with the crossovers that came with them, because of that i am probably going to aim them towards the windsheild to tone them down some but because they swivle i can turn them back towards me if they arent enough with the 18...

[ngsm13]

Originally Posted by CBFryman

That is why it is going to have a high pass right below tuning. WinISD says 24cuft sealed...lol. 1.5cuft ported tuned to 60Hz. that way the 18 will only have to handle 20-60Hz. Im not worried about doppler distortion. other than straight test tones it is hardly noticable except ofr at extreme volumes.
The RE's only need to keep up with the XXX18 up untill about 130dB peaks. which is about as loud as i will listen to rock (Distortion Pedal + Electric Guitar + higher then 130dB = Hell on earth for your ears)
after that the 18 will be used mostly for setting off car alarms, going deff, vibrateing everything within a 3/4mile radius, ya know stuff like that.
oh and Hammer head, TruTech Hammer H-1. 2000w@1ohm
Only thing is that it is only 69% efficency.

I wouldn't pay attention to WinISD for those...I'd talk to RE personally and have them model up something in LEAP if they haven't already done so! And I knew what you were referring to when u said the "Hammer Head"...It's the Tru H-1 and the Tru SH-1 (Hammer 'H-1' and Sledge Hammer 'SH-1')

[PaulD]

horns are HLCD's - horn loaded compression drivers. The horns shape is a natural amplifier and the compression drivers are very efficient - so they get really loud. A compression driver works by "pleating" the air thru an orifice, so to me they often soend very harsh. They are normally designed to play from say 500-800 Hz and up, so you will definitely need a midbass driver if you use them.

[aznxthuggie]

ah i c

[bumpinstang77]

Horns are great if you know what your doin but components are much better if you don't have a lot of experience....... I have heard ID's lower lines horns all eqd out (EQs are needed w/ horns IMO) and paired up w/ some JL 6w0's I believe......sounded real nice and got loud for the little bit of power that was on them.

[ngsm13]

Originally Posted by bumpinstang77

Horns are great if you know what your doin but components are much better if you don't have a lot of experience....... I have heard ID's lower lines horns all eqd out (EQs are needed w/ horns IMO) and paired up w/ some JL 6w0's I believe......sounded real nice and got loud for the little bit of power that was on them.

Yup, you need a GREAT active xover...

And...dual 31 band EQs

NG

[ponchonutty]

Originally Posted by bumpinstang77

Horns are great if you know what your doin but components are much better if you don't have a lot of experience....... I have heard ID's lower lines horns all eqd out (EQs are needed w/ horns IMO) and paired up w/ some JL 6w0's I believe......sounded real nice and got loud for the little bit of power that was on them.

Actually no. In a properly set up system, you don't need EQ's. Normally when I am done doing a full system, all the gains(like bass, midpass, and highs) are all set to neutral. Active crossovers are usually needed for a true sound quality system but not always. People are too quick to play with the gains on a radio or add EQ's which normally just result in clipping.

I use to sell horns back in the early days because no one made a nice componet set. If you wanted nice crisp highs, horns were the choice. Today, there are many nice componets to choose from. Using a nice matched componet set does take out the guess even for the seasoned installer but they are also usually much less expensive.

PaulD is right. For the most part the horns sound very harsh compared to their componet counterparts. I personally never liked them but at the time, I had to use them. I couldn't tell you the last time I've done anything with horns.

[bumpinstang77]

yes therefore needing to be eqed out

[PaulD]

you have to be careful with horns (installation wise), because where they are mounted - the dash becomes part of the horn. That's why they tend to sound best in cars where the part of the dash that slopes up (at knee level) are symmetrical. If I remember correctly, they had some type of block or baffle they put in the horn to "tune" them.

[ponchonutty]

Originally Posted by PaulD

you have to be careful with horns (installation wise), because where they are mounted - the dash becomes part of the horn. That's why they tend to sound best in cars where the part of the dash that slopes up (at knee level) are symmetrical. If I remember correctly, they had some type of block or baffle they put in the horn to "tune" them.

Yes Paul you are correct. The install is the key for them to sound well. Unfortunately, most of the time they look kinda out of place when you just slap them under the lip of the dash. Plus, you usually lose a little room too. Now, in a completely custom car with a custom done dash, that's usually not the problem. Some horns had internal baffels or "blocks" that could be moved while others had removable ones.

It seemed that you saw them all the time in stereo comps and show cars but I can't remember the last time I've seen them used.

[CBFryman]

Well I got tired of having these beauties just sitting there in my room doing nothing, so instead of waiting for the money to make door panels, I simply installed them in the stock location. Now normally this isnt a problem, but mine was. My full range OEM woofers are 6x9's...my RE's are 6.5's. well needless to say i had to construct a baffle so there wouldnt be cancelation and all thoes other fun things. Now the doors arent sealed but eventually they will be, and dampened.

Well anyway here is an instruction for anyone wanting to put 6.5's in a 6x9 hole.

There once was a group of cave men. They had a round peg and an oval hole . One cave man said "Make round peg smaller than oval hole, Then it will fit." Anoter cave man said "seal hole and make new hole." and another said" make oval hole round buy cutting off extra." But the wise and mroe experenced cave man said "Simply remove some excess from the oval hole and the round peg will fit perfectly." And they did, and it was good. Then the wise cave man said "let there be sound" and there was, and it was good.

Ok Ok... so here is the comparison.

geuss wich one is the RE 6.5?

Well here is a list of what you will need.

-Plywood/MDF 1/4"-1/2"
-Chaulking of some sort
-Bolts
-Jig Saw
-Drill and Drill Bits
-Jig Saw blades for metal and wood
-Pencil
-Philips Head Screwdriver
-Flat Head Screw Driver
-Plyers
-Dikes (no, not the ones that are fun to watch, the kind that cut stuff)
-A big hammer...just kidding
-File (poor baby doesnt want to get medal shavings in his fingers)
-Eyeprotection, Captian C says, "Wear Eye Protection When Cutting Metal"


Ok Step One...
REMOVA YA' GD PANEL. I cant tell you how to do this, you figure it out.


Remove the stock speakers



Now is a good time to disconect your battery.


You want to cut a hole about so so big.... in other words, bigger than the hole but small enough so it will fit, this is application dependant as well so figure it out yo' self.


TIP: for thoes who have never used power tools before and live in a middle class apartment and never do any DIY work... tie courds togather like so. this is so they dont become unplugged when dragging the courd around place to place. Oh, and make sure the Jig Saw is unpluged when chaning or adjusting blades.


You are going to need a Jig Saw blade that is made for cutting wood. rougher teeth then metal cutting blades and the thinnger the easyer it is to make tight or elaborate cuts.


You should end up with something a little like this.


ohhh, ahhh, its bigger than the hole


Dont be a puss, peal back your water guard so you can get your arm back there


Mark it all up to see how much you will need to cut



and cut it, oh BTW this is what a metal blade looks like.


Now Mark up your baffle for mounting holes and speaker holes.



and TA'DA


Good as gold


Use a little something like this to seal it all up, so you dont have to F' around with a chaulking gun.


AND DONT BE SHY WITH IT


Mark Up the mounding ring if supplied (not required but it made my job easyer, even though i am not using the grilles...for now)


While watching the chaulking dry connect all your Xovers and Tweets etc..


Then mounter her up


and be done

[aznxthuggie]

nice, where are u putting the tweeter again?

[ngsm13]

Originally Posted by aznxthuggie

nice, where are u putting the tweeter again?

Don't you see... it's going to hang down with the wires inside the door

Nice glasses....

NG

[CBFryman]

The glasses where a joke
but you should wear eye protection.
Next weekend i will be working on a little something that will mount on the door aiming the tweeters at the windsheild. Direct listening with these mofo's is harsh.
but it will be all good once i get an active Xover/EQ. the Xover point of the tweets will be raised 1/2-1 octave and quieted a bit.

[ponchonutty]

CBFryman, you look like a rope licking stick boy in your shades!

Anyway, I prefer to use Lexan or even the higher grade Plexiglass for doing what you did. I also cut the hole (with tin snips) much larger that what you did. That way you can still mount the woofer under the stock door panel without having to worry about it hitting anything. I do not like using wood because it tends to rot, split, and crack because it is almost always wet during the winter here in Ohio.