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Old 06-16-2009, 08:46 PM   #61
dpalomaki
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Re: Replacing intake gasket...

The Delco part number for the two o-rings needed for the fuel rail inlet and outlet (where the pressure regulator plugs into the fuel rail) is 217-461. Price ranges form $15 to $30 depending on where you shop, and may be a special order item.

It also goes by GM part number 17113034.
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Old 07-20-2009, 04:18 PM   #62
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Re: Replacing intake gasket...

I'm about to do the LIM gasket job on a relative's car. Can anyone run down the revised torque specs applicable to the '03 3400 in a Pont. Grand Am. I will get a book for the bolt torquing sequence but I was wanting the latest torque specs for the upper intake, LIM and rocker arms for '03 3400.
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Old 07-22-2009, 06:07 AM   #63
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Re: Replacing intake gasket...

Found this forum and what a help!!!! Of course I had already started and now need help. From everything I've read I'm not in to much trouble yet. I've got the upper plenum removed. Alternater off, power steering off , coil packs off. Was Looking to remove the valve covers next and cannot get to the lower bolt on the passenger side. The bracket that holds the alternater, and the belt tensioner is in the way and I'm trying to remove it. I've removed 3 or 4 bolts with 15mm socket and does anybody know where they are all at???? I removed 1 from the back and 2 or 3 from the front....does one of the head bolts also hold it???
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Old 07-22-2009, 10:29 AM   #64
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Re: Replacing intake gasket...

1999 Olds Cutlass 3100
This is the bracket;


here's the one in the back I have out.



then the two in the front side
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Old 07-22-2009, 03:14 PM   #65
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Re: Replacing intake gasket...

Quote:
Originally Posted by lagogarda View Post
Found this forum and what a help!!!! Of course I had already started and now need help. From everything I've read I'm not in to much trouble yet. I've got the upper plenum removed. Alternater off, power steering off , coil packs off. Was Looking to remove the valve covers next and cannot get to the lower bolt on the passenger side. The bracket that holds the alternater, and the belt tensioner is in the way and I'm trying to remove it. I've removed 3 or 4 bolts with 15mm socket and does anybody know where they are all at???? I removed 1 from the back and 2 or 3 from the front....does one of the head bolts also hold it???

I think you have to take tensioner bolt out. I just complete the job on the Pontiac and that was my second car I've done this job on, and both times I unbolted the tensioner. the idler above the tensioner does not have to be unbolted though.
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Old 07-23-2009, 06:33 AM   #66
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Re: Replacing intake gasket...

That was it!!! Thanks.!!
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Old 09-08-2009, 01:22 PM   #67
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Re: Replacing intake gasket...

Hi guys... any idea how must this job would cost if is done by a mechanic?
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Old 09-22-2009, 12:26 PM   #68
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Re: Replacing intake gasket...

Typical shop cost is probably about $800-$1000, maybe more depending on where you are.

For DIY, the minimum recommended parts needed would be under $75, not counting any routine replacements you decide to do at the same time (e.g., belt, plugs, plug wires, t-stat, etc.).
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Old 11-04-2009, 01:21 AM   #69
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Exclamation Re: Broken Vacuum port on manifold

Hello all. I am finishing up my 1998 lumina 3.1L lower and upper gasket set. I purchased the fel-pro kit at advance auto with all the needed gaskets. Also got new injector orings, fuel line orings, thermostat, upper lower hoses, heater core quick disconnect and so on....

I have enjoyed the project and appreciate the help I got from this site. Our mechanic quoted $1673.00 for the job. He recommended that I junk the car. This is my sons car by the way.The car had other issues like #2 and #4 fuel injector bad. Cam sensor cracked and defective. #3 and #4 spark plug wires open.

So I have invested $330 so far and I am ready to start her up. BUT I found a broken vacuum port on the upper aluminum manifold front drivers side near the pcv.

Now this port is sheared clean off. I was saddened as the excitement of the completion and start up slowly sank like a tropical sunset.

Does anyone have a fix for this port that they can share other than get a new upper manifold from the salvage yard. I'm so close but yet so far away.
Thanks
Rick
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Old 11-04-2009, 08:07 AM   #70
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Re: Replacing intake gasket...

Getting JY upper manifold might be the longest lasting, quickest, and most reliable fix, and it would keep it stock and would be my first choice. But there are alternatives, such as maybe drill out, thread, and install a nipple where the port was, or maybe try some (well, more likely a lot for strength) high temp epoxy to reattach the broken piece, or variations there-on.
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Old 11-19-2009, 11:46 PM   #71
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Re: Replacing intake gasket...

I don't know if you guys have seen this tool or not, but I was a GM tech and it is the difference between making awesome flat rate on intake gaskets, or not, it makes tourqing those pain in the butt corner bolts a breeze. Far as I know it is only from snap on, mine is chrome and 12 point, but same idea. It is 3/8 drive, but the extension and socket are 1/4 drive physical size. It has a ball swivel, so unrestricted movement to a whole lot of degrees.

I don't know how to post the pic, but cut and paste this link to see snap ons picture of a power one (black finish), but same principal as mine.

There is also a tool to compress the rocker arms, it is a lever that fits the arms. If the valve covers aren't leaking, don't take em off, slip this tool in and take the p rods off without taking the valve cover off.
Turns a 5.5 hour intake gasket job into 3 hours or less if you have air tools too

heres the first tool
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item_...9400/59356.JPG

heres the second, its the short one, they make one about 10 inches longer, but I see no need for it, they are easy to compress with it, and it has a spot for a ratchet for extra leverage too.
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....re&dir=catalog
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Old 11-20-2009, 03:08 AM   #72
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Re: Replacing intake gasket...

Quote:
Originally Posted by jyount View Post
I don't know if you guys have seen this tool or not, but I was a GM tech and it is the difference between making awesome flat rate on intake gaskets, or not, it makes tourqing those pain in the butt corner bolts a breeze. Far as I know it is only from snap on, mine is chrome and 12 point, but same idea. It is 3/8 drive, but the extension and socket are 1/4 drive physical size. It has a ball swivel, so unrestricted movement to a whole lot of degrees.

I don't know how to post the pic, but cut and paste this link to see snap ons picture of a power one (black finish), but same principal as mine.
I don't think I've seen that tool before on here. Those corner bolts are a pain getting to even with a 3/8" drive crow's foot, especially on the later models that seems to have bigger manifold runners. I thought what was needed was a 1/4"drive to make room. Some bolt kits give you a 13mm head for the end bolts and give you a little more room to swing the crow's foot, but this seems like a better solution. I wonder if they have it in 13mm too? Maybe it'd help with the pesky power steering bolts?

Quote:
There is also a tool to compress the rocker arms, it is a lever that fits the arms. If the valve covers aren't leaking, don't take em off, slip this tool in and take the p rods off without taking the valve cover off.
Turns a 5.5 hour intake gasket job into 3 hours or less if you have air tools too

heres the first tool
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item_...9400/59356.JPG

heres the second, its the short one, they make one about 10 inches longer, but I see no need for it, they are easy to compress with it, and it has a spot for a ratchet for extra leverage too.
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....re&dir=catalog
A similar tool like that I think has been mentioned here, but some doubted if it work good, and on later models, if valve cover gasket would reseal good, etc. I can see that this tool would be a huge time saver though. Excellent tips you have here!
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Old 11-24-2009, 08:46 PM   #73
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Re: Replacing intake gasket...

So, what's the final verdict on the gasket kits? The new Modified GM design, Felpro, Dorman (they even include the bolts and only cost $49.00), the thicker aftermarket ones ($91.00), some other? Which is best and won't re-fail. I'm just about to start this job and feeling apprehensive. Thanks for a great thread of info. -Andy
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Old 11-24-2009, 10:17 PM   #74
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Re: Replacing intake gasket...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tryitnow View Post
So, what's the final verdict on the gasket kits? The new Modified GM design, Felpro, Dorman (they even include the bolts and only cost $49.00), the thicker aftermarket ones ($91.00), some other? Which is best and won't re-fail. I'm just about to start this job and feeling apprehensive. Thanks for a great thread of info. -Andy
I have had good luck with gm, they now have the steel inserts in the break area, have new bolts, new oil pump drive seals, and valve cover gaskets if you need, their gray permatex is the best I have found, but it is ALL pricey too.

The felpro had the inserts before gm, they are good gaskets too.

I don't know about dorman, I have not used their intake gaskets, but have used other dorman parts and am satisfied with the product.
I replaced the hole upper intake plenum on a 4.6 mustang engine, they are prone to crack out, they are plastic, and the old design had plastic coolant runners, they now have aluminum, anyway, it was good, had the intake, and the new style mounts for the upper accessories, it was good quality, but I would guess that their parts are foreignif you care, probably felpro too for that matter.

The UTMOST important thing to do is tourqe with the revised specs, the gm gaskets have a papers with em saying to.
Over tourqe on the hardware is why they fail in the first place, it cracks the plastic and it goes from there.
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Went to school for cars, wound up staying with Deere dealer for a while, so schooling there too. Also couple years exp in GM and some GM training
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2010 Silverado Z71 5.3L 65xxx

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Old 11-24-2009, 11:11 PM   #75
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Re: Replacing intake gasket...

Thanks for the advice jyount. That last part, about breaking the plastic, is one reason I'm leaning toward the Dorman set. I read these are made of metal. Yeah, I hate buying all that foreign garbage too. They are just killing us, economically. I'm a little pee'd off at G.M. for this problem in the first place, so I probably won't go with their set. Probably Felpro or Dorman set.
Have you used that tool you mentioned for removing the pushrods, without removing the back valve cover? Will the valve cover gasket re-seal with this technique? It sure looks like a tempting time-saver.
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