Rubbing Compound & Polish help

[HittenSwitches]

Hey guys, i searched through the past files, and couldn't really find what i was looking for on this topic...i'm from Hamilton, Ontario, and the couple hobby stores that i have been to don't carry the compound, and the wax....is there any alternative hardware store or anything that i would be able to get these? if so, which would be the best brand or types to get...Thanks alot guys, take care

[gpz900ra7]

Look for Meguires products, seems to do the job well, as for wax look for anything with Carnauba wax in the ingredients. The Treatment Model wax has Carnauba wax in it and that stuff is fantastic. Before you try it on a good kit use it on an old kit first, just to be on the safe side

[360spider]

Automotive products will work well only if you paint with automotive paints or work with lacquers. Most automotive products will not work on enamels or acrylics. Carnauba for paint protection, and absolutely no necessary on the model - you need a wax that lightly polishes and shines paint up.

Novus polish system is really good.

[winstona]

Hey I am from Ontario too! Do you mind driving to Mississauga? (May not be a good idea today with this kind of weather...) North Star hobbies should have the polishing compound in stock. Not sure about polishing wax though...Most Hobby stores here don't carry the wax I find...

http://www.northstar-hobbies.com/

Winston

[HittenSwitches]

Originally Posted by winstona

Hey I am from Ontario too! Do you mind driving to Mississauga? (May not be a good idea today with this kind of weather...) North Star hobbies should have the polishing compound in stock. Not sure about polishing wax though...Most Hobby stores here don't carry the wax I find...

http://www.northstar-hobbies.com/

Winston

Hey thanks man, lol i was going into missisauga to drop off a buddy so i stopped in, they had the rubbing compound and a the testors high gloss polish, and it works great for me thanks for telling me about northstar man, its a great store

[ZoomZoomMX-5]

Be VERY careful of automotive stuff. Many of them have chemicals that will soften your paint and take the shine away if you aren't careful. Many Meguiars products are too harsh.

However, search for "Meguiars Scratch X" and see what you find. Many of us ACME guys have bought tubes of Scratch X at Wal Mart/Target and it's great for polishing paint jobs without chemically softening the paint, it polishes via friction alone. It usually works as well/better than Tamiya compound. I rarely wax models; they don't sit out in the rain or sun or snow so they stay nice and shiny once polished.

[HittenSwitches]

Originally Posted by ZoomZoomMX-5

Be VERY careful of automotive stuff. Many of them have chemicals that will soften your paint and take the shine away if you aren't careful. Many Meguiars products are too harsh.

However, search for "Meguiars Scratch X" and see what you find. Many of us ACME guys have bought tubes of Scratch X at Wal Mart/Target and it's great for polishing paint jobs without chemically softening the paint, it polishes via friction alone. It usually works as well/better than Tamiya compound. I rarely wax models; they don't sit out in the rain or sun or snow so they stay nice and shiny once polished.

so pretty much, if you model isn't getting wet and that, it doesn't really need to be waxed? like it doesn't have much of a difference in look?

[mickbench]

Originally Posted by ZoomZoomMX-5

Be VERY careful of automotive stuff. Many of them have chemicals that will soften your paint and take the shine away if you aren't careful. Many Meguiars products are too harsh.

However, search for "Meguiars Scratch X" and see what you find. Many of us ACME guys have bought tubes of Scratch X at Wal Mart/Target and it's great for polishing paint jobs without chemically softening the paint, it polishes via friction alone. It usually works as well/better than Tamiya compound. I rarely wax models; they don't sit out in the rain or sun or snow so they stay nice and shiny once polished.

Couldn't agree more. Stay away from Automotive polish unless you have painted your car with "Real" automotive Lacquer paints.

I used Automotive polish once on TS spray. Never again. It did damage the paint, it went all tacky and very soft. Was not a great idea.

Wax on the other hand is great for removing water marks from decals, little bits of loose paint from panel lines when you drop water based ink into the recess to make black panel lines or whatever and it's still a protective layer on your paintjob..

OK, I agree its not like it's going to be subjected to weather, sun, cold etc, but its protection none the less.. Plus it feels so smooth afterwards.. Hmm.. I need to get a life..!!

[RallyRaider]

Pure carnauba wax should do the trick. I've got a whole draw full of fancy polishing compounds and more often than not regular carnauba wax is as effective as anything. Smells good too!

With the caveat that we're talking about lacquers here like Tamiya or GSI Creos. Enamels and acrylics should be okay too but make sure you check first by testing on some non valuable scrap.

[white97ex]

I use 3M products. I use either 3M rubbing compound or 3M microfinish. But I typically use lacquer paints. I follow with meguiars or zymol automotive wax. I too have noticed the smoother finish, and Its just the method that I have always used. I notice a difference....but It could just be my mind playing tricks on me

[HittenSwitches]

Hey guys, Thanks. I'm Gonna give this stuff called Turtle Rubbing Compound, and Turtle Was...its for cars, but i think i'll give it a shot on one of my less cared about models lol...i'll let you guys know how it goes when i'm done.

[ZoomZoomMX-5]

Originally Posted by HittenSwitches

Hey guys, Thanks. I'm Gonna give this stuff called Turtle Rubbing Compound, and Turtle Was...its for cars, but i think i'll give it a shot on one of my less cared about models lol...i'll let you guys know how it goes when i'm done.

Go ahead and try it. And then tell us the results

Seriously, you've been given excellent advice and warnings about auto polishes and recommendations for you to try (auto products that won't kill your paint), there are plenty of tutorials in the FAQ's, yet you're now about to go against everyone's suggestions and try the world's strongest and most caustic product ever invented for paint. It's too strong for any modern paint finishes on real cars, but I guess since you decided you want to try it I won't attempt to talk you out of it at this point. We try, we really do, but it seems all for naught at times.

[mickbench]

**Shaking head**

I already mentioned not to use automotive compounds etc.. I know what it does, I’ve tried it. In fact, my real car never gets turtle wax compound. I use clearcoat safe polishes and waxes on my real car. The ingredients of some polishes have suspended grits, and chemicals that break the surface down, to then cut into the paint to remove scratches and buff the surface. It’s like skimming, but only taking a very fine layer off. However newer paints are formulated differently, and react oddly with certain compounds.. they can cut too deep, melt the paint, even remove too much paint etc.

Just get on over to www.hlj.com and get some Tamiya compound. It works on all model paints, as it’s not as hard on the surface as the formulation is designed to work the same as automotive polish, but doesn’t cut as fast, or melt the paint.

This is why scratch X works, as it’s formulated to work with newer clearcoated automotive lacquers. Many that have older cars try scratch X and it does nothing, whereas on my nearly new car it works a treat for removing marks etc.. Cars 10 years or older tended to have harder base coats and no clear coats, and hence why stuff like T Cut (a VERY hard liquid abrasive) were devised.. Never use T CUT on a model, it will perhaps strip the paint off.. It’s that hard.

[HittenSwitches]

Originally Posted by ZoomZoomMX-5

Go ahead and try it. And then tell us the results

Seriously, you've been given excellent advice and warnings about auto polishes and recommendations for you to try (auto products that won't kill your paint), there are plenty of tutorials in the FAQ's, yet you're now about to go against everyone's suggestions and try the world's strongest and most caustic product ever invented for paint. It's too strong for any modern paint finishes on real cars, but I guess since you decided you want to try it I won't attempt to talk you out of it at this point. We try, we really do, but it seems all for naught at times.

for starters, why are you getting your back up at me? its a multipurpose rubbing compound and wax...its for automobiles yes, but also for other things...and as for my results, i just started working on it now, and it is turning out great...and everyone on here was only sayin that most automobile compounds and waxes won't work...they never said all don't. So go complain somewhere else, this conversation is over...

[ZoomZoomMX-5]

Originally Posted by HittenSwitches

for starters, why are you getting your back up at me? its a multipurpose rubbing compound and wax...its for automobiles yes, but also for other things...and as for my results, i just started working on it now, and it is turning out great...and everyone on here was only sayin that most automobile compounds and waxes won't work...they never said all don't. So go complain somewhere else, this conversation is over...

Sorry. Try communicating a bit more clearly next time. Your story changes, your typing skills are terrible. People will take you a lot more seriously here if you try just a bit harder to communicate properly. You'll get a lot more out of this place when people take you seriously.