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Car Audio Do you live in your car? Then you need to be able to listen to some high-quality music.
View Poll Results: What is the Best Car Audio Brand?
Alpine 51 30.36%
Kenwood 18 10.71%
Clarion 11 6.55%
Fusion 1 0.60%
Sony Xplod 9 5.36%
VDO Daytona 1 0.60%
Panasonic 3 1.79%
Super Sound! 0 0%
Avalanche 1 0.60%
Other (please post) 73 43.45%
Voters: 168. You may not vote on this poll

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Old 09-10-2005, 09:34 PM   #106
sr20de4evr
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Re: Your Car Audio System

You should use at least 4awg for all of those, if not larger, I'm surprised 10awg made any difference at all. I'm personally using 4awg straight from the alt to the batt + (with a fuse), 4awg from the engine block to the chassis, and 0awg from the batt - to the chassis.
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Old 09-10-2005, 10:28 PM   #107
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Re: Your Car Audio System

im re doing mine w. 0 gauge all around, im got light dim w/ only a 250 W amp... my next amp/sub is gonna shut my car off
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Old 09-10-2005, 11:21 PM   #108
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Re: Your Car Audio System

Damn thats not good lights dimming from 250 watts. i shut my truck off when i put 4 amps in it once it was a total of i think 1200rms for 3 subs and 4 speakers, that was before i bought the yellow top. Just remember one thing the bigger the wire the better and i doubt 10 gauge would make much of a difference usually stock is 10 or 8 on older vehicles with bigger motors. My old car had 12 gauge for the grounds. Im going to upgrade mine as soon as i get my truck back on the road with 0 gauge for the big3 and the amps. Should be nice. Ive been planning to buy my new system for a while but man i have so much other shit going on its retarded. 18"XXX RE, either hifonics or ppi 1500.1 amp (started looking into cadence amps), 2 sets of 6.5 inch components either RE XXX, CDT's, or kodas, amp from the same company i get for the sub for the speakers about 75x4 rms or 300 watts and either a PANASONIC CQ-VD7001U or a PANASONIC CQ-C9901U still debating whether or not i want the dvd screen or just a HU. Then im looking at monster cable RCA's my truck puts off so much engine whine. 180 amp alternator at idle and alot of sound deadening either edesigns or dynamat. Then a nice new yellow top optima battery with trunk mount and about 125 for a box. Ends up beeing between 2500 and 3000 so it could be a little while before i get everything setup and it should be pretty damn nice.
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Old 09-10-2005, 11:24 PM   #109
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Re: Your Car Audio System

My friend had a Geo Metro and I used my dad's Lumina to demonstrate what his Geo Metro MIGHT do with a really powerful stereo system. If you've driven a Lumina, they have VERY touchy brakes and they got very decent power in the engine. So I used both to demonstrate the effects of very large bass notes hitting with that little 3 cylinder engine. He didn't really appreciate almost hitting his face on the dashboard. But he got the point.

These are really good tips, by the way. This is simple shit! If I can modify the wiring diagram for my headlights and do a successful rewire job while bypassing most of the van's old electrical system and end up with brighter headlights, I can definently do this.
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Old 09-11-2005, 03:18 AM   #110
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Re: Re: Your Car Audio System

Quote:
Originally Posted by L|_|da
im re doing mine w. 0 gauge all around, im got light dim w/ only a 250 W amp... my next amp/sub is gonna shut my car off
Sounds like you have a retarded amount of clipping to me
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Old 09-11-2005, 11:52 AM   #111
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Re: Your Car Audio System

how the hell can you tell from what...?
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Old 09-11-2005, 02:13 PM   #112
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Re: Your Car Audio System

Decause a properly set 250 watt amp will not cause dimming on any car, your headlights and radiator fan combined draw more than that.
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Old 09-11-2005, 04:23 PM   #113
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Re: Your Car Audio System

My old Fujitsu that was originally in my van hooked up to that Fujitsu equalizer made the headlights dim worse than my new stereo system I got now. It also had its own sub under the dash. I ended up hooking that to one of those $20 Roadmaster bass tubes from Wal-Mart. It sounded alright. I was stuck with radio though. The tape player didn't work. So I ended up soldering some RCA cables to the cassette's line-in circuit after trying to find it. Then I hooked my RCA Lyra to that and was only able to enjoy 1 or 2 CD's worth of music.

My amp does 160W/channel with 320W/channel of peak power. So that would be 320 total RMS and 640 total peak to run both woofers in my subwoofer. I have to be really cranking that son of a bitch 'til my ears just start to bleed to even notice any dimming. So having said that, I'm willing to believe that underpowered amps can actually draw more power than amps that have plenty of power. I made sure I can get the most powerful amp I could afford. I got the gain on mine about 1/4 of the way and it sounds pretty damn good. I'm still tweaking here and there to get it just right. Also remember that an underpowered amp can damage your sub. So it doesn't hurt to try to get more power than you need, or at least meet its power requirements.
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Old 09-11-2005, 05:51 PM   #114
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Re: Your Car Audio System

my BX1205D doesnt make my headlights dim at all but it kills my dome light, but not the dash or the radio...so i dunno what up with that (the voltage doesnt even drop much on hard hits)... and all i have is 1/0 Bat to Chassis and Alternator to ground. i never got around to alt to bat.
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Old 09-11-2005, 08:43 PM   #115
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Re: Your Car Audio System

mine dims all the F*ing time
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Old 10-29-2005, 02:30 PM   #116
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Re: Your Car Audio System

Pioneer HU, Dayton woofer/tweeters, Memphis Subs, Lightning Audio Amps (NOT BOLT series)
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Old 11-09-2005, 10:07 PM   #117
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I have a sounddtream tarantula tr880/2(880 rms), running a jbl wgti 15 right now, and alpine head unit. Ive just started putting this system together so I have only stock high end. the 15 is in a shitty box. I have a lot of work to do. I still hit 138.4 db at a local shop even ghetto rigged. My entire trunk is sound deadened though which helps. I plan on selling my jbl for a soundstream splx 12 or 15.

I voted alpine to be the best. but only as far as head unit and amps go. alpine has some of the best sound quality that I have tried out of 5 brands, and heard 10 others. As far as subs go thats hard. for super spl comp. Hifonics golith, soundstream xxx, digital design 9500, Resonant Engineering. as far as every day listening but pretty damn loud mtx 9500, memphis audio mojo or lvs, soundstream. alpine is the as far as soundquality goes in my opinion.
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Old 11-12-2005, 03:45 PM   #118
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Talking Re: Your Car Audio System

I have got 2 alpine type r 12's, 1 alpine mrd-m1000 amp, 2 alpine type r 6 1/2 speakers in doors and 2- 6 1/2on rear decklid, and an alpine cda-9833 in my 93 accord.
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Old 11-12-2005, 06:29 PM   #119
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Re: Your Car Audio System

how do you like the alpine components? i was thinking of getting some of those for my front soundstage sometime
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Old 11-16-2005, 02:04 PM   #120
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Pioneer DEH 4700MP Head unit
Alpine V12 MRV T-757. Birthsheeted at 107 WRMS per channel at 12v.
RE Audio 6.5 comps.
Morel CR-103 Tweeters.
Crystal CAM 300.2 600 WRMS at 12.5v.
Infinity Perfect 10.1 Ported 1.1 cf net tuned to 26hz.

Soon to go in for testing.

Dual 12 enclosure and a pair of Arc Audio 12's, new sub amp should give around 1000 WRMS at 12v and more at 14.4.
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