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Car Audio Do you live in your car? Then you need to be able to listen to some high-quality music.
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Old 11-16-2004, 04:25 PM   #76
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Re: Re: Which of these subs would you get?

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Originally Posted by sr20de4evr
At the most you'll only gain about a decibel by going with the zrs-9 over the 8, but you will gain some headroom. The zrs-8 should put out a bit over 1500 anyway, I think it would be fine.

And sure you could buy a lot of JBLs for less, but they aren't as good, no matter how many you have. The sound quality isn't as good, and their 1ohm stability is questionable. I would much rather have mine over a pair of brutus 1500ds or a pair of JBL 1200.1s. In my opinion if you have the money it's not a bad choice at all, I still have yet to read a negative review on any cadence amp, period. And I also noticed a significant improvement in sound quality when I switched from my Avionixx to the Cadence.
well, if you wanna argue sound quality in amps when it comes to subbass, thats fine with me, but power is power when it comes to subs. if you were using it for comps i'd understand, but for a sub amp i'd say 750 bucks is a big waste of money. when you could get more than double the power for 300$ less...... and i highly doubt that anyone would be able to notice an sq difference when the two are switched.
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Old 11-16-2004, 04:57 PM   #77
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Re: Which of these subs would you get?

I already said that I DID notice a difference, a very large difference when I switched out the Avionixx for the Cadence, from the very first song I played after the switch. And I'm not talking about the power difference, the upper bass (60-80hz region) became much more defined, the sub sounded smoother through the whole freq range, the low bass (30-40hz region) didn't just jump in out of nowhere, it blended with itself much better than with the Avionixx. And the Avionixx was no flea-market amp, it was around $300 for 800x1. Say what you will, I know what I heard.
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Old 11-16-2004, 06:37 PM   #78
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Re: Which of these subs would you get?

How do you push 1350w at 2ohm and the same on the wattage on 1ohm with the same amp?.... that isnt reality. 1350@2ohm 2700@2ohm.

and all you are wrong

TRU TECH ALL THE WAY.
lol... too bad their stiff cost 4 times of companies such as Hifonics (whihc IMO put JBL to shame SQ wise)

and no. even in Subbass power isnt power. i cna supply 900w with a clean signal or 900w from a 450w amplifier supply a nearly square (suverly clipped) wave. SQ will be horible from the 450... also, THD introduced becomes very prevelant if you know hte track once yo uget into high volumes (over 115dB is where i personally start really picking up extra harmonics)
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Old 11-16-2004, 07:23 PM   #79
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Re: Which of these subs would you get?

boo to TRU





unless you have nothing in life to spend on except amps, go TRU. Otherwise, look for something else. lol.

A buddy of mine is a dealer for TRU. While I can get TRU for cheap, I refuse to do so, mainly because I don't wanna hop on the bandwagon (ECA perhaps?) and make it like it's god's gift.
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Old 11-16-2004, 07:49 PM   #80
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Re: Re: Which of these subs would you get?

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How do you push 1350w at 2ohm and the same on the wattage on 1ohm with the same amp?.... that isnt reality. 1350@2ohm 2700@2ohm.
the amp is regulated, like JL, it adjusts the rail voltage depending on what you attach to it
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Old 11-16-2004, 08:10 PM   #81
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Re: Re: Which of these subs would you get?

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Originally Posted by GSteg
boo to TRU





unless you have nothing in life to spend on except amps, go TRU. Otherwise, look for something else. lol.

A buddy of mine is a dealer for TRU. While I can get TRU for cheap, I refuse to do so, mainly because I don't wanna hop on the bandwagon (ECA perhaps?) and make it like it's god's gift.
ECA used to be tru, now its old school hifonics, zapco, and dls mostly.

you a member at ECA??

CBFryman, how about you take that guy up on his challenge its 10,000 dollars in your pocket if you can tell two amps apart with the same power output, i know there might be other guidlines, but you seem to be confident that you can do it, if power isn't power....
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Old 11-16-2004, 10:36 PM   #82
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Re: Re: Re: Which of these subs would you get?

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Originally Posted by loismustdie
ECA used to be tru, now its old school hifonics, zapco, and dls mostly.

you a member at ECA??
TRU died down? wow. never thought it'd be like that. hahha

Whenever TRU pops up, it's always better by default to some people


i'll stick to my road gear thank you

yea. i'm a member of ECA. I was many years ago, but then somehow couldn't log back in and then had to re-register and now i'm a newb again. lol
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Old 11-16-2004, 11:54 PM   #83
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Re: Re: Re: Re: Which of these subs would you get?

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Originally Posted by GSteg
TRU died down? wow. never thought it'd be like that. hahha

Whenever TRU pops up, it's always better by default to some people


i'll stick to my road gear thank you

yea. i'm a member of ECA. I was many years ago, but then somehow couldn't log back in and then had to re-register and now i'm a newb again. lol

Tru is still around and selling strong
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Old 11-17-2004, 10:06 AM   #84
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Re: Which of these subs would you get?

Tru is too damn expensive just like JL.
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Old 11-17-2004, 11:53 AM   #85
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Re: Which of these subs would you get?

tru is cheaper than jl
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Old 11-17-2004, 12:19 PM   #86
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Re: Re: Re: Re: Which of these subs would you get?

Quote:
Originally Posted by GSteg
i'll stick to my road gear thank you
Isn't that the Walmart crap? I don't laugh often on forums, but that one made me laugh .
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Old 11-17-2004, 12:20 PM   #87
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Re: Re: Which of these subs would you get?

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Originally Posted by loismustdie
i hope thats an opinion, because those jbl amps are great, they'll put out somthin like 1350 at 2 ohms, and will do the same at 1 ohm.
It is painfully obvious that it is an opinion. I just don't Like JBL.
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Old 11-17-2004, 03:11 PM   #88
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Re: Which of these subs would you get?

TRU's smallest T-series is obviously cheaper than the JL 1000/1. lol
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Old 11-17-2004, 03:25 PM   #89
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Re: Re: Re: Which of these subs would you get?

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It is painfully obvious that it is an opinion. I just don't Like JBL.
i don't see how the jbl puttin 1350 at 2 ohms is an opinion and niether is the fact that they are only 200$ at sounddomain. but if 1350 watts of reliable power at 200$ isn't great, tell me what is. if you don't like jbl i don't mind, but i wouldn't consider what i said an opinion in the least......
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Old 11-17-2004, 06:42 PM   #90
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Re: Re: Re: Which of these subs would you get?

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Originally Posted by loismustdie
CBFryman, how about you take that guy up on his challenge its 10,000 dollars in your pocket if you can tell two amps apart with the same power output, i know there might be other guidlines, but you seem to be confident that you can do it, if power isn't power....
you seriously do think that power is power when it comes to bass? a square signal will sound LIKE CRAP. about like a license plate rattleing on top of destroying your coils.
as i said before (though i will shed some light on it)

If i take amp 'X' rated to 1500w amp and amp 'Y' rated to 1500w.

Amp 'Y' had been shown to be able to bench 1600w@1ohm clean signal.

The highest reality clean wattage amp 'X' can bench is 800w@1ohm.

We will look at the signal. now we all know that wattage is Amperes*voltage.
@1ohm total average current passing through the coils will be 40a. this is at one ohm impeadence; in other words, what ever frequincy will give that coil exactly a 1ohm load.

if at Point A amp 'X' can no longer produce a signal verticaly it must produce extra wattage horazontaly, result? clipped signal. since the voltage will stay the same for a longer period of time it will move more current in that period of time and there for more wattage.

amp 'X' that can normally only produce 800w clean producing 1600w will have a suverely clipped (almost completely square) signal. this will cause the coil to slam forward, stop, idle (very short), then move in the other direction. the sound will be slightly quieter than amp 'Y' and will be very muddy and distorted (yes even bass frequincies)

Amp 'Y' will make the coil move forward, stop and allow the suspension to start moving the coil back the other way untill the signal moves in the other direction. the coild stays cooler, the sound is heard as it is sappsed to be heard and is slightly louder (i say only slightly because total wattage is total wattage. the distorted wattage will be louder than the clean wattage but not as loud beause Amp 'Y' will reach greater excursions).
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