PRND321 Lights, Oil Level Light, Temp Gauge

[ktmccrary]

I have an actron scanner that checks many things but I cannot find anything related to what gear it is in. And I have had the switch off and apart (10 rivets). This switch is so well made with heavy contacts that it would take a tank to mess it up.

[tblake]

If you can start your car in both Park and Neutral, and your backup lights come on, chances are your PRNDL switch is fine.

[olopezm]

You can use an external site like the one I use (imageshack.us) for high resolution pictures. The forums image capabilities require you to use a lower resolution or smaller size (100KB) which is why I would recommend the external site.

From there you can copy the "Forum thumbnail" and paste it here.

Best regards,

Oscar.

[olopezm]

By the way, the 9 pin connector you mention is the CD changer connector, as indicated in the first diagram.

[ktmccrary]

9-pin conn body.jpg
The black 9-pin connector lying on the gearshift knob has a LT GRN, TAN, and DK GRN wires in the middle 3 pins and fits into the factory stereo head shown next:

9-pin connector.jpg

BLK powered wire.jpg
Single pin connector BLK wire, 12v when ign sw is on. This appears to be factory taped to the wire bundle that bypasses directly behind the stereo head unit with 1-1/2" factory tape

Head Main CONN.jpg
This is the main connector for the oem stereo from which the mating connector was cut and gone, leaving the following wires:

Overall view.jpg
So here's what I have:
BLK/WHT GROUND VERIFIED
DK BLU RR + VERIFIED
LT BLU RR - VERIFIED
ORG BAT/MEM VERIFIED
BRN LR + VERIFIED
YEL LR - VERIFIED
BRN/WHT DIMMER VERIFIED
GRY/BLK LIGHTS ON VERIFIED
LT GRN SHOULD BE RF + TENTATIVELY VERIFIED
DK GRN SHOULD BE RF - TENTATIVELY VERIFIED
GRY SHOULD BE LF - TENTATIVELY VERIFIED
TAN SHOULD BE LF + TENTATIVELY VERIFIED
YEL SHOULD BE ACC/PWR ON - NO VOLTAGE PRESENT- I STILL NEED TO TRACE THIS PROBLEM

DK BLU UNKNOWN - THIS MUST BE THE STEERING WHEEL CONTROLS, BUT WHERE DOES THIS GO ON AN AFTERMARKET UNIT
DK GRN UNKNOWN - 12V PRESENT WHEN IGN SW IS ON - MUST BE THE DATA LINK E&C DATALINE , BUT WHERE DOES THIS GO ON AN AFTERMARKET UNIT
DK GRN UNKNOWN - THIS MUST BE THE RADIO ON OUTPUT, BUT WHERE DOES THIS GO ON AN AFTERMARKET UNIT

LT GRN UNKNOWN - 1 OF 3 WIRES IN 9 PIN CONNECTOR - assumed to be cd changer
TAN UNKNOWN - 1 OF 3 WIRES IN 9 PIN CONNECTOR - assumed to be cd changer
DK GREEN UNKNOWN - 1 OF 3 WIRES IN 9 PIN CONNECTOR - assumed to be cd changer

BLK UNKNOWN - This wire has a 1-pin connector and is
folded and taped to the wire harness in the back, not
with the other wires and also has 12v present with
ign sw on


IC test plug.jpg
This is the back of the instrument cluster while still hooked up. Since there is nothing in the dash that plugs into the center open connector I assume this is a factory test connector

[ktmccrary]

I agree on the CD changer connector. When I first printed the diagram, that portion was cut off. Other than that connector and it connecting to the stock radio/CD, there is no evidence anywhere I can find that there was ever a CD changer in there. Thanks for the help.

[ktmccrary]

splices.jpg
Here is a pic of the splices I mentioned earlier

Stereo Wires.jpg
Here is a closer up pic of the stereo wires

[olopezm]

Ok, all wires at the radio seem to be OK, you have the wires at C1,C2 and C3 on the diagram. The wires you have not identified are for the

steering wheel controls - DK BLU
E&C dataline - DK GREEN
RADIO ON - DK GREEN (this is a remote for the antenna amplifier)

C3 is the external CD changer connector as already mentioned. Since this was an optional feature your car definitely didn't come with it which is why you can't find any traces, YET you still have the harness like other GP's do (mine has the digital cluster on top of the radio harness which came standard in GTP's even when it came with the single cluster).

To test the speaker cables you can use a 1.5 volt AA battery, connect and disconnect it several times between each pair of wires and listen for a clicking noise coming form each speaker.

Is there any chance you could mention on which fuses are those splices installed?

I can't find any reference to the 1 pin cable, I'm still checking my diagrams and will report ASAP. I think it's strange since most power lines are orange...

The yellow wire without power needs to be traced back to the fuse box to find out if it's broken or not. Is there any chance the other guy replaced the yellow wire with the single black wire???

Best regards,

Oscar.

[ktmccrary]

Where can I find a diagram of the back side of the fuse block? Some of those wires don't go where they seem sometimes.

GP3800-2and3merged.jpg It seems we have identified all the radio wiring, and the black live wire is in a connector and obviously wasn't used on the oem radio. So, I'm back to my original 3 problems. This drawing is 2 merged pages from my Haynes manual. There appears to be a common physical ground on both the transaxle switch and the Oil level switch. Can anyone tell me where to find this physical ground?

[olopezm]

I've been checking diagrams and those splices at the back of the fuse block can't be OEM (they don't look like factory installed to me). I've never taken apart that in my GP but the manual doesn't shows any black wires turning into pink or similar...

You could try using a DMM to find the exact location of those splices in the fuse block.

My manual has a bit different diagrams, but that ground seems to be located at the lower left front of engine.

Best regards,

Oscar.

[ktmccrary]

I traced the 3 splices and they don't seem to be part of my problem. The BLK/WHT ties directly to the ground bus in the fuse block. The pink wire goes to the TCC fuse and the GRN/WHT wire goes to pin 86 on relay 14 the FP relay. There's no question that these ARE NOT factory splices.

The BLK/WHT wire coming off the oil level switch is open to ground. I jumpered this wire to ground and it didn't fix anything. In the diagram above I can't figure out the transaxle range switch. There are two connectors on it. One is a 4 pin with YEL, GRY, WHT, BLK/WHT (which I assume to be line 27) The other plug has several big wires and other wires on it including a BLK/WHT which is grounded, so even though it's in a different connector, I assume this is the wire coming of the right side of the switch in the diagram going up to that junction point.

[olopezm]

Please keep everything related to the same problem in the same thread.

Did you inspect the ground from the TRS you asked before?

The ground to the oil level sensor is located at the lower left front of the engine and there is a splice which divides its path to the fuse box at the engine compartment (Engine Oil Pressure indicator Switch and MAF sensor grounds) and to the Engine Oil Level indicator Switch. The other ends) of the Oil Level Indicator (BROWN) and the Oil Pressure Indicator (TAN/BLK) go to the PCM in the air box.

Your idea on the TRS is correct, the colored wires are in one connector, the ground is in a different one.

Best regards,

Oscar.

[ktmccrary]

'I'm in the middle of NC and it got down to 10 degrees here last night and I am getting sick of working on this car. I cannot find ANY ground near the left bottm front of the engine. That area is ony 8 inches away from the oil level sensor. but the wires don't even go that way. There is a connector on the A/C compressor, and those wires are routed over and join with the oil level sensor wires, and the oil pressure sensor wires and the are sheathed together in a larger bundle of wires that go toward the PCM. The actual BLK/WHT oil level wire bypasses the PCM and goes through the bundle on top of the radiator, which it looks like I'm going to have to break open now to find the routing.

[ktmccrary]

WIRE D3.jpg WIRE D3-FUSE BLOCK TOP.jpg WIRE D3-FUSE BLOCK.jpg
The ground wire (BLK/WHT) wire from the oil level sensor goes into a harness that wraps over the transaxle, by the PCM, over the radiator, around the battery and into the engine bay fuse panel at wire D3 in the large black connector. Click on the first pic to see the wire highlighted in RED. The 2nd pic shows where this pin is from the top, again hightlighted in RED. The 3rd pic shows in RED the actual pin D3 this wire goes to in the block. THIS PIN IS NOT GROUNDED IN THE BLOCK, though is sits aside 3 other wires in the block that ARE grounded as highlighted in YELLOW in the 1st 2 pics below.
Ground Wires.jpg Grounds on block.jpg Spliced Ground.jpg
The last picture above shows a larger BLACK wire in the middle to the left of the screw lug, not marked. This pin was physically removed from the block and the original BLK/WHT wire replaced by this short black wire and spliced twice, but it does go to ground in the block.
Mess 1.jpg Mess 2.jpg Mess 3.jpg Mess4.jpg
These last 4 pictures are of the mess that is my engine bay right now.

Does anyone know if this wire going to D3 could possibly have been moved and inserted in the wrong hole?

[olopezm]

I'm sorry you're getting tired of it, I know the feeling something similar happened with my Town Car and I had to make a big mess, but trust me once you fix it you'll love the car and feel very confident you did your best effort and work it out!.

My diagram doesn't shows the oil level running into the fuse box, it only shows it splicing into the MAF and engine oil pressure switch OUTSIDE the fuse box. Check the attached image where 2 is Oil pressure switch,3 is the MAF and 4 is the Oil level switch.

I was out of town and just arrived home, I'll take a look at the pictures and see if I can find something., I'm a bit tired though...

Best regards,

Oscar.