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Old 08-17-2014, 07:01 AM   #16
jtsaur
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Re: maxima stalls after deceleration, stalls at idle

I have a 9 years old 2005 Maxima. The engine is now experiencing the similar problem.

I had the engine light on a few weeks back. But, it never stalled. My mechanic replaced knock sensor, connector, and thermostat.

After service, the light went away. However, it started stalling. Last night, it stalled 4 times. The last time, the nice police gave me a tip, keep the rpm over 2000 to start it up.

I figured it stalled because the engine was missing gas. So I kept the rpm over 2000 even at the light with the other foot on the break. That's how it stopped stalling and got me home.

Looking at the dates of this thread, Maxima had this similar issue 1o years ago. I wonder if they never fixed it, this a separate design issue, or one shouldn't expect a 9 years old Maxima to run without issues.
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Old 05-19-2015, 01:37 PM   #17
No1sBoy
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Re: maxima stalls after deceleration, stalls at idle

You al might want to take a look at this?

A service bulletin released by Nissan on September 1999.

Found it in my AllData.

This is a PDF I uploaded to my DropBox... This is NOT spam or some other crap....
Good luck to you all.

https://db.tt/Q89At4WS
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Old 12-08-2015, 01:35 PM   #18
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Re: maxima stalls after deceleration, stalls at idle

I thought it may help someone to share my experience.

I have a 2004 Nissan Maxima SL
In September of 2015 (about 130k miles on the car) it started idling rough, which progressively got worse and the car would stall at idle.

This progressively got worse and it would start to stall often when I would let off of the accelerator, even while moving. Nothing like losing power steering etc.. while traveling down the highway.

When the problem first started the check engine light came on, and I even had the car stuck in 4th gear once, but I digress...

Took it to a shop in Mountain View and they diagnosed 3 engine codes. A very friendly mechanic explained the first thing to address is the Ignition Coils and Spark Plugs. So I did that work plus a tune up which cost me $900

After a couple of days the car was having the same problems, this time the "fix" was to replace the MAF sensor. $333 dollars later I got the car back and it was fine, for about 2 days. The problem was much less severe when it reoccurred so I dragged out a return trip for a few weeks, driving the car only when necessary and getting to know my bicycle a bit better.

When I brought the car back I could barely keep it running while he had the computer plugged into the car to diagnose it. He suspected the Throttle Body and I made an appointment. Picked the car up a couple days later with a new throttle body and gasket (~$500), and I was shown the computer performance before and after. This really seemed to smooth the car out and it was idling like new.

So a few days later, the car has started idling rough and stalling yet again. I will take the car back and give them a chance to make it right, but I am dead set against giving them any more money. I cannot help but suspect the problems they have addressed were NOT causing my car to stall because it is acting exactly as it was before I spent $1,700 to fix it!!

The last thing he mentioned when I picked the car up last time was some valve in the transmission, but he also talked about how the TB talks to the PCM and TCM so I'm anxious to see what the "real" fix is.

Bottom line, if your car is doing this make sure you get some assurances that the shop will fix the problem, not just replace parts they think will fix the problem.

Last edited by Suntastic; 12-08-2015 at 06:21 PM. Reason: Additional Details
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engine stalls after returning to idle neilthomas Engineering/Technical 0 09-24-2007 07:18 PM

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