Help! Dead Van! Electrical?? - Page 2

GNXdreamin · 11-03-2009, 02:32 PM

okay, i found an online 5 band resistor calculator. You input the band colors, and it gives you a value. The colors are brown, black, red, silver and silver. The values it gave me were a resistance of 1.02 ohms, and a tolerance of + or - 10. Does this sound accurate??

GNXdreamin · 11-03-2009, 05:02 PM

Alright, so i went to radioshack, and all they had were 4 band resistors. So i came back home, and did some more research. I found one calculator that was able to provide the color codes for a 4 band equivilant to the 5 band that i broke. The color code is Brown, Black, Gold, Silver. Same 1.02 ohm resistance, and tolerance of +/- 10%. So if i go back to radioshack and pick up a 4 band resistor that matches that color code, does that mean it's the same as the 5 band that i broke?? Please Help! Thanks.

Alphabravo · 11-03-2009, 07:38 PM

If it's labled "C2" then it's definitely a cap, not a resistor. I have a board from a Gen II van and C2 is a shiny blue capacitor labeled "102K". That means it is a 1000 pF, +/- 10% tolerence capacitor. I don't know if it's the same on the Gen III van you have, but if the one you broke was a shiny blue thing, then who knows, it just may be. As a reference, C1, C23, and C25 are all the same as C2. If yours are the same as well then maybe there's a greater chance your C2 was the same too. PS they are VERY hard to read, if you have a magnefying glass use it.

Good luck.

Alphabravo · 11-03-2009, 08:03 PM

Your resistance calculator seems right. I think you'd do OK with a 1 Ohm resistor. But are you sure it is labled "C2"???? C2 is a capacitor, not a resistor. If it was a resistor it would be labled R-something.
I know that if it has color bands it's defilintely a resistor, but labeled C2??
I'm looking at C2 and it's a cap.

GNXdreamin · 11-04-2009, 09:56 AM

well, that certainly makes sense that it would be a capacitor. I looked at the board again, and yes, the resistors are labeled with an R. But this component i broke is in spot C2, and it is shaped and looks like a resistor. But it's really tiny. It's got a yellow colored body, with 5 bands around it. Brown, black, red, silver, and silver. I did some more research online, and i did find one site that said color banded caps were used in older applications. So i'm guessing that this would be a cap, then? If so, what the heck is the value?

Alphabravo · 11-04-2009, 12:31 PM

Your safest bet would be to just buy the junk yard board you mentioned for $40, even if you do have to re-solder it at the connector.

But if you want to play around with it here's a link that gives you cap color code info:
http://www.tpub.com/neets/book2/3g.htm

Good luck.

GNXdreamin · 11-05-2009, 03:57 PM

Alright, i went to the junk yard, and got a replacement circuit board. I resoldered the connector, and put it in. No change. Still no start, and the alarm light comes on after the key has been in the on position for about 20 seconds. What now? I'm at a loss here. Now i'm thinking it's the PCM, because i'm still getting the code 940 on the instrument cluster. Any ideas, anybody?

Alphabravo · 11-05-2009, 05:21 PM

Could be something in the wiring harness? Try this thread, this guy seemed to have similar problems as you:

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...ighlight=alarm

Hope it helps. Good luck.

pentabob · 11-07-2009, 06:40 AM

Hi GNXdreamin,
This is probably old news as you stated the 940 is a CCD bus problem, I only wanted to confirm that the alarm light staying on is also an indication of the same problem... here is a quote.....
"If the VTSS indicator lamp comes on after ignition ON and stays on, the CCD bus communication with the powertrain control module possibly has been lost."
So with the code and the light pointing to a communication loss problem maybe this will narrow down the problem, going to do some more research.
Good luck,
Bob

GNXdreamin · 11-08-2009, 05:52 PM

after doing some research, i've found that some vehicles equipped with vehicle theft security system are also equipped with what's called a central timer module (CTM) which gives the "okay to start" signal to the PCM. If the CTM is bad, the vehicle will not start, and also in turn give the impression that the PCM is bad. I was considering replacing my PCM, but now i'm not so sure. Does this information apply to the town and country? does my van have this CTM? and if it does, where is it located?

pentabob · 11-09-2009, 06:24 AM

This may also be old news but I dont see it anywhere in the thread...

"The VTSS will prevent the engine from starting until the BCM receives a disarm signal"

Have you tried disarming the system per your owners manual?
Still digging...
Bob

GNXdreamin · 11-09-2009, 07:50 AM

yes, i tried disarming the system several times. I tried disconnecting the battery. I can't seem to gain any ground here. I can jump the starter at the starter relay, and it will crank, but won't fire.

pentabob · 11-09-2009, 12:03 PM

OK GNXdreamin,
Here is a touch more info, have you tried this disarming method or just with the remote?
This method is for a 1998, hopefully they are the same.

"Enabling
To initialize the VTSS feature the operator must, with the engine compartment hood open, cycle the key in the liftgate key cylinder to the unlock position giving the BCM a disarm signal. At this time the visual alarm outputs the headlamps and marker lamps will function. However the audio alarm output the horn and engine disable portion of the VTSS will not function until there has been twenty consecutive engine run cycles. When this has occurred the total VTSS will function."

This next line would indicate disconnecting the battery wont really help...
"The current VTSS status armed or disarmed shall be maintained in memory to prevent battery disconnects from disarming the system."
Will continues digging after the dentist
Bob

GNXdreamin · 11-17-2009, 05:27 PM

well folks, looks like the problem has been solved. The van got put on the back burner there for a while, but i got back to it today, and turns out it was a bad PCM. I got one from a junk yard for $50, put it in, and it started. Holy crap, i'm so relieved. So just thought i'd let you all know. Thanks so much to all of you for your advice and input on the matter. Till next time............

RIP · 11-17-2009, 07:01 PM

It's the component everyone does their best to avoid. In your case, it turned out to be the worst case scenario but wow, did you ever luck out on finding that $50 PCM. Many junkyards pull them and send them to computer fix it shops for resale. I probably don't even need to say this but generally a new PCM has to be programed with your vans VIN number and updated but if it's running great why bother. Great job!

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