2001 lincoln LS V8 Code # 1299

cjones9 · 10-04-2007, 07:50 PM

The car overheated once and now it continually runs about mid range on temp gage. I have no heat when it is turned up to 90 inside the car, it is running great but not sure where to start. I have checked coolant level and also pressure tested everything there is fine. I have ordered a cylinder head temp sensor and a heater core, as well as a new thermostat. pretty sure its not just a thermostat. What would you recommend

shorod · 10-04-2007, 08:17 PM

Welcome to the forum!

You might have a Dual Coolant Control Valve (DCCV) that is stuck closed, not flowing any coolant through the heater cores.

-Rod

cjones9 · 10-04-2007, 10:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by shorod

Welcome to the forum!

You might have a Dual Coolant Control Valve (DCCV) that is stuck closed, not flowing any coolant through the heater cores.

-Rod

what would be the best way to check the dcc valve

shorod · 10-05-2007, 12:43 PM

That's a good question. On my wife's, I hooked my scan tool up to the car and checked the HVAC system for errors and monitored the datastream readings. All the temp sensors appeared to be reading accurately, and the signal to the DCCV was changing, but the temperature was not. I swapped in another control head to be sure, as well as checked the position readings of the different doors. Everything checked out nominal, but obviously there was still an issue. So, I replaced the DCCV since it was about the only thing I hadn't changed. I took the old one apart and was able to verify that one of the valves was stuck.

Scan tools to query the climate control system are not really easy to come by, and I'm not aware of an easy way to test the DCCV. The DCCV runs around $160 from Fast Parts Network, so it's not a cheap part to "shotgun." Fortunately for me, it fixed the issue.

-Rod

cjones9 · 10-05-2007, 01:47 PM

Rod-
Did your wifes car blow any hot air in the car or was that even an issue, if your wifes car was blowing hot air it would be safe to say that it is the heater core that is causing my problem?

shorod · 10-05-2007, 09:37 PM

My wife's car was blowing very hot air (115 degrees F at the vents) on any setting other than 60 degrees F. At 60 degrees F (automatic), the air was cold.

The DCCV works in both directions. Well, I'm not sure that makes sense. The valve modulates the flow of coolant through the heater cores. If one or both of the valves is stuck closed, you will have very minimal (if any) coolant flowing through the heater corresponding heater core. However, if it is stuck open, you will have continuous flow through the core. I'm not sure how the modulation works, if it is a PWM square wave, or if it is a variable voltage that controls the flow. I suspect PWM. If that's the case, it makes a lot of sense how my wife's DCCV was failing. The sticking valve would work for zero% duty cycle (spring to hold it closed, as well as for 100% duty cycle. However, for fast switching in between, the valves would stick in the open position. It was obvious that at least one of the valves was rubbing the solenoid assembly.

So, in your situation, I'd say it could still be a faulty DCCV (due to the over-temp coolant when the engine overheated) or a coincidental wiring issue.

-Rod

tebpsu93 · 08-06-2008, 02:24 PM

My 2001 Lincoln LS today started blowing hot air out of the passenger side vents instead of cool air. If I set the temp to 60 it blows cool. I've read some of the previous posts (like the one below) about the DCCV, my question is where is this valve and is it a DIY job. Sounds like it regulates coolant flow which may not be a DIY job.

- Tom

You might have a Dual Coolant Control Valve (DCCV) that is stuck closed, not flowing any coolant through the heater cores.

-Rod[/quote]

shorod · 08-06-2008, 05:38 PM

The DCCV is located behind the radiator and low on the passenger side (US) subframe. It isn't too bad of a job if you have the necessary tools. A set of hose pinch-off pliers are very helpful so you don't need to drain the entire cooling system. You'll also find it a lot easier to replace if you put the car on jackstands and can work from underneath as well as from above.

Based on a recent experience I had with my wife's 2002, you may also want to consider that you may have a bad passenger air discharge temperature sensor. The temp sensor is the same as the driver's side air discharge temp sensor and the evaporator discharge air temp sensor. You may want to try swapping the driver's side and passenger side sensors and see if that changes the behavior. On hers, there was no diagnostic code either from the self test or according to the scan tool. However, the datastream for the climate control system on my scan tool showed a bogus reading for the evap air discharge temp sensor. I swapped that sensor with the passenger discharge sensor and the system started working fine. Bought a new sensor from the dealer for $16.19 (full MSRP) and all is well now. The dealer said they've never stocked that part, so they must not fail too often.

-Rod

tebpsu93 · 08-06-2008, 06:18 PM

I think I would like to try and swap the temp sensor first. Where do I find these sensors?

I have the same problem on my 2002 Chrysler Town & Country. The passenger side blows warm air if the temp is not set below about 68. Does this have a similar sensor?

Thanks,

Tom

shorod · 08-06-2008, 08:44 PM

The passenger air discharge temp sensor is located in the center plenum. To get to it you need to remove the passenger footwell trim piece which is held in place with two plastic push rivets. Then remove the one 8mm (IIRC) bolt to drop the floor vent. With that removed, stick your head under the dash and look to the center plenum area behind the radio and HVAC controls. The temp sensor will be an off-white color rectangular piece (all that's visible) with a two wire connector plugged in to the top of it. With a small, long flat pocket screwdriver, unplug the wiring then pry the side nearest the radio/HVAC controls away from the plenum. It will pop out slightly, at which time you can reach in and wiggle the sensor out usings a side-to-side motion. Do not twist/rotate the sensor.

There will be two more sensors just like it on the driver's side mounted in the plenum. Access and remove them in a similar fashion.

I'm not sure what the Town and Country will use or how it controls the heater core flow. I believe it just has a single heater core though whereas the LS has a dual core heater core and controls coolant flow for the driver's side and passenger's side independently.

-Rod

danielsatur · 08-07-2008, 05:38 PM

You can bench test this valve with 12V and use WD40 to clean + exercise.

They seem to lockup during the summer months when not being used.

MCGIVER

gramman03 · 08-09-2008, 02:19 PM

2002 lincoln ls ac blows hot air. Ran diagnostic and was given this code:

19 47

Any suggestions would be great

Quik_LS · 08-09-2008, 06:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by danielsatur

You can bench test this valve with 12V and use WD40 to clean + exercise.

They seem to lockup during the summer months when not being used.

MCGIVER

I have seen you recommend wd40 in several posts now - wd40 is not recommend as it is not sensor safe - meaning it coats sensors and is not meant for the heat range found in egines, engine bays.

Quik_LS · 08-09-2008, 06:19 PM

the V8 uses a seperate electric coolant pump to circulate into the cabin - so... make sure to check out the fuses and then also check that pump.

if you PM me your e-mail address I'll send you a cooling system diagram and you can start from there.

rhanson1 · 10-20-2008, 01:21 PM

Hey Quik LS, I would love to get my hands on a cooling system diagram. Could you email one to me too?

I'm having a heating problem with my '04 LS V8. When the engine first warms up, I get some heat. But as the engine gets warmer and runs longer, the air coming out of the vents becomes progressively cooler. If I drive long enough, the vents will eventually blow nothing but cool air, even if I have the ATC set on 90 degrees. The fan speed continues to run faster and faster because the system knows that it is not keeping up with the temperature setting.

The engine temperature gauge shows normal readings - the engine warms up quickly when cold and then the temperature needle remains in the normal mid-position at all times. Therefore I don't think I have a thermostat problem. However, if I hit the accelerator and rev up the engine, I suddenly get heat out of my registers.

Based on the symptoms, I think I have a cooling system problem. I suspect that I either have air in the system or I have a coolant control valve problem. Or, based on your last post, maybe I have an electric coolant pump problem. I noticed that my coolant level is very low, so the first thing I'm going to try is adding more coolant.

I took car to my dealer for him to fix this problem, and he didn't have a clue. At first he insisted that everything was operating normally. When I demonstrated to him that it wasn't, he said it was likely a very complex problem that would require tearing apart the dashboard and would be very expensive. I think he's entirely on the wrong track because I think this is a cooling system problem - not an automatic climate control problem. I don't think he even considered the cooling system, so I am stuck with trying to diagnose the problem myself. Thus a diagram to help me understand how the system is supposed to work would be very helpful.

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