Dual climate control blowing heat on AC (DCCV removal instructions in post #107)

[shorod]

The one I did was on a V6, so some of the steps were different. Plus, that was two years ago, so I don't recall exactly what it took. I remember it was pretty intuitive once I got started. The most frustrating part was figuring out how to unplug the connectors. I ended up Googling it and found that you press in the red tab to unlock the plug. For the rest of it, I jacked the car up, drained the coolant from the radiator, visually located the DCCV (may also be called heater control valve, Dual Coolant Control Valve, Dual Coolant Flow Valve, coolant valve) then started removing things to get it out. I didn't really follow any procedure.

Did you e-mail Torrie that you needed a DCCV and he came back with something called the "Valve assembly?" I'm pretty sure Torrie is familiar with the DCCV and gave you the right information. If you have an illustration from Fast Parts Network, that will confirm it's the right thing too. When I ordered the one for my wife's 2002 LS V6 it was called " VALVE ASY - A/C TEMP."

-Rod

[RJLipscomb]

It looks like access from above is tight but possible. I emailed Torrie and he replied with "Valve Assembly - HTR WTR". There are some cheaper sites (+/- $105+ shipping). Ford lists the same thing for Motorcraft Part #YG378. I cannot find a picture of the valve any where on the web. It just seems to me that Ford does not want you replacing this thing yourself and somehow makes it impossible to confirm. Years ago, the web contained photos and diagrams of everything, now it is hidden behind layers of nonsense. I know what mine looks like, why can't someone post a picture of the valve they're selling? Tomorrow, I'll run down to Ford and look at their offering and then order it on the web.
Where did you dispose of the coolant?

[shorod]

Coolant disposal varies by state and sometimes even county. Check with your local hazardous materials handlers. Sometimes stores that sell coolant also must accept used coolant. Some shops will be glad to accept your non-contaminated coolant for their recycling stations, and some areas will allow you to flush up to x gallons down the toilet.

-Rod

[1865 Lincoln]

my 04 LS blows hot air on both sides (dual control) no matter what temp setting. Whats up with that?

[RJLipscomb]

did you run the datc tests and get any codes?

[PPPAnimal]

WOW, looks like this is a common problem. I too have a 2004 Lincoln LS blowing hot air both sides 100% of the time. I did notice if i turn on the climate control option for the seats, they blow cold air, while the dash system still blows hot. So i guess the computer knows it needs cold air in cabin but is just not blowing it. I did find that the 10A fuse for the climate control valve/clutch etc. was blown. I replaced it and still no difference. I suspect i now need to look into the bad sensor or stuck door problem talked about above. I will try the test mentioned about unplugging the door valve thing and see if it closes. If i understand correctly this would suggest the sensor is bad, if not, then the door valve maybe be bad/stuck. I will report back.

BTW, i do not have the message center thing needed to do the diagnostic tests mentioned so can't get codes from it. Was looking into getting a scanner but see they are $299 at Canadian tire for the one i expect i would need to see real time data from the cabin temp sensors etc.

Anyway, great thread. Thanks for all the help this has given me and who knows how many others.

[shorod]

The cooled seats are cooled by a system completely independent from the A/C system. Only the location of the seat buttons are linked to the rest of the climate control system.

Is the cabing air hot, like it's heated by the car, or just luke warm like there is no A/C cooling happening? Have you checked to see if the A/C compressor clutch is engaging?

The Message Center is not used for the self diagnostics of the DATC system. The self diagnostics will be displayed on the display for the DATC, so you should be able to access them.

Also, the $299 scan tool from any chain parts store will not be able to access the DATC system. This requires either a factory NGS/WGS diagnostic tool or a high end professional scan tool such as the OTC, Snap-On, Mac, or Cornwell.

-Rod

[PPPAnimal]

Originally Posted by shorod

The cooled seats are cooled by a system completely independent from the A/C system. Only the location of the seat buttons are linked to the rest of the climate control system.

Is the cabing air hot, like it's heated by the car, or just luke warm like there is no A/C cooling happening? Have you checked to see if the A/C compressor clutch is engaging?

The Message Center is not used for the self diagnostics of the DATC system. The self diagnostics will be displayed on the display for the DATC, so you should be able to access them.

Also, the $299 scan tool from any chain parts store will not be able to access the DATC system. This requires either a factory NGS/WGS diagnostic tool or a high end professional scan tool such as the OTC, Snap-On, Mac, or Cornwell.

-Rod

Hi Rod. Yes, the hot air coming out is very hot, as heated by the heater. and yes, after replacing the fuse for the A/C pumps clutch it did start engaging when the A/C was turned on. The fan motor speed changes when i switch from auto to manual A\C. Faster speed on the manual A/C Mode but still hot air from all vents. I hope to look at this more tonight and see if i can figure out if it may be the DCCV or a sensor controling it. Bummer that the Code Scanner will not work. I just talked to a buddy that has one and was going to lead it to me this weekend to try.

Thanks for the fast reply and again for all the help you give here.

[shorod]

See if your buddy has a couple of hose pliers as well that can block coolant flow. Then block off the flow to the hoses to the cabin to see if that allows the air to start blowing cooling (once the heater cores cool down). If so, that would indicate the DCCV is flowing coolant when it shouldn't be. If you verify that the voltage to the DCCV is correct, but the valves are sticking open, that narrows down your search significantly.

-Rod

[PPPAnimal]

Have yet to get time to look at it but when i do, i will try that.

I did figure out how to access the codes though. In this car it seams i needed to press OFF and DEFROST, then AUTO. Anyway, the codes it shows are.

27 99
27 97
12 65

Since i took the good clutch fuse out so not to blow it again i assume one code will likely refer to it.

[PPPAnimal]

Ok, with a good fuse in place for the A/C clutch i get diff codes.

27 98
27 98
12 65

I found the DCCV. Tried to remove the plug but even after sliding the red lock open it still does not want to come off. Tried a few other plugs that look like this one, they all came off fine. Figures the one i want off seams stuck. lol. So i figured i would try clamping the hoses. Found 3 hoses coming off the DCCV on the right side of the car right beside the RAD. 2 are heater hoses that run into steel lines soon after coming out of the DCCV and run to the firewall. 1 heater hose running from the DCCV to a line t'ed off the water pump. I tried to clamp them and thought it made a diff, less heat, still no air but then noticed the A\C pump was not engaging anymore. After shutting the car off and removing the clamps I started it again, the A\C pump would engage. Odd. With A\C off i reclamped the lines and waited for the heat to get out of heater cores. When it seamed like there was less heat (but still rather warm) i turned on the A/C and the air coming out cooled down to more like outside air temp. Still not cold but the best i have seen yet. I will let the car cool down for a few hours and try this again to see if i can get air the feels atleast somewhat cool.

[shorod]

Code 12 65 is a "Cold air bypass door actuator circuit failure."

Code 27 97 is "Driver Coolant Control Valve open circuit."

Code 27 98 is "Driver Coolant Control Valve short to ground."

Code 27 99 is "Passenger Coolant Control Valve open circuit."

-Rod

[PPPAnimal]

Well i got it fixed. A few of the tips on here were wrong from my findings. I will talk about them below.

2004 Lincoln LS was blowing heat in all modes.

Self Test was done by pressing OFF and DEFROST, then AUTO.
(not OFF and FLOOR, then AUTO as suggested above and also in
the 9.9 version of ALLDATA REPAIR program)

It first displayed the following codes.
Code 12 65 is a "Cold air bypass door actuator circuit failure."
Code 27 97 is "Driver Coolant Control Valve open circuit."
Code 27 99 is "Passenger Coolant Control Valve open circuit."

After replacing the 10A fuse under the hood...
27-97 and 27-99 open circuit errors were fixed.

Another self test displayed errors...
Code 12 65 is a "Cold air bypass door actuator circuit failure."
Code 27 98 is "Driver Coolant Control Valve short to ground.

As suggested on here, I unplugged the DCCV and checked if A/C would work fine
without power to the valve. If did not make any difference.
(the thought was that the DCCV would close without power, and open with power.
I have found this not to be the case. After opening up my old DCCV i found its
rest position to be open.)

As also suggested on here, I clamped the heater hoses coming from and too
the DCCV or Heater control valve. The A/C then started to work fine.
Just be sure your engine is cold when you do this test or you will still feel
the hot air from the already hot heater cores.

I then unplugged the harness for the DCCV and tested for voltage. It showed over
14 volts. So the DCCV was getting power and should of been working but was not.

Finally, the dealership wanted $197 canadian for a new DCCV. Reports on here are
you can get one in the states online for $99. I found on at the auto wreckers for $25. After replacing my old one with this, my A/C worked fine.

Another self test showed only the
Code 12 65 is a "Cold air bypass door actuator circuit failure."

I am not 100% sure what the cold air bypass door does but i notice
no problems with my Climate Control System ATM. I assume this error
has been there for some time before the DCCV went bad and its just
something i never noticed.

I priced a new acuator for this door and found the dealership wants $47
canadian. Is this something i really need if i don't notice any problems
without it?

I want to thank everyone here for all the help and info in this thread, it really
got me looking in the right direction. I likey would of ended up paying the dealership
$500 or more to diagnos this and fix it had i not found this info.

Lastly, i suggest you all download ALLDATA REPAIR. It is what the dealerships are using and many other repair shops. You can check it out at
http://www.alldatadiy.com/

Click on to test it out.

[shorod]

If the cold air bypass door is not working properly, the climate control system won't be working to peak efficiency. Per the factory service manual, "The cold air bypass door actuator is located on the evaporator core housing. During automatic operation the control module can position the door fully open so that some of the airflow will not pass through the heater core. This will provide for maximum cooling. The door is closed or partially closed during modes other than maximum cooling."

Many of the actuators are very similar and may have slight housing differences. If you wanted to check it out, you could remove the cold air bypass actuator and plug it in to one of the other actuator connectors and check its operation. Or there's an entire troubleshooting section in the FSM for this code. You can probably access the same pinpoint test from Alldata.

-Rod

[joegr]

Originally Posted by shorod

If the cold air bypass door is not working properly, the climate control system won't be working to peak efficiency. Per the factory service manual, "The cold air bypass door actuator is located on the evaporator core housing. During automatic operation the control module can position the door fully open so that some of the airflow will not pass through the heater core. This will provide for maximum cooling. The door is closed or partially closed during modes other than maximum cooling."

Many of the actuators are very similar and may have slight housing differences. If you wanted to check it out, you could remove the cold air bypass actuator and plug it in to one of the other actuator connectors and check its operation. Or there's an entire troubleshooting section in the FSM for this code. You can probably access the same pinpoint test from Alldata.

-Rod

This advice is invalid! I assume that you don't have an LS, and apparently don't have a factory manual. The LS has no cold-air bypass door. The error code is incorrect. The factory service manual says to ignore code 1265 because the LS is not equipped with a cold-air bypass door.