Tried a new glue today

[primera man]

Originally posted by christofurr


They don't have it listed on there , what's the retail on it?

They have quite a good selection of kits though. Could be worth a drive up there one weekend soon to have a look around, maybe pick up a couple of new kits .

I'm sure it was only around the $5-6 mark.

Nobbys Nuts.....yep, it sure does eat up paint. Like you said, it can only be used on unpainted parts.

FOTW.....The main thing i like about it is it is so quick. It bonds so fast and has a very strong bond. Plus with the added bonus of being able to sand it straight away speeds up building time :flash:

[Jonno]

Originally posted by Nobbys Nuts
A word of caution though about getting it on your skin. In some people it has been known to effect skin.

If it is the same type of stuff we use in Plastics at school to bond styrene, too much exposure to it can give you cancer...If I remember correctly.

[Chain]

Ok, some more detailed pics showing 5 of the top for liquid cements.



Left to right:
1 Tamiya:
Written in japanese and cant make out which model is this cement in particular, anyone can identify it?
2 Plastruct's Plastic Weld : Not much has been mentioned about this.
3 Testors : Seems good by those who have used it.
4 Tenax 7R : Best of the best, whats already been said.
5 Ambroid's Pro Weld : Not much mentioned about it too.

Overall the site didnt mention much about the rest cept for Tenax7R which it says was the best to use but also mentioned that you should try any of them to see which you are comfortable with.

Any feedbacks would be great about the others besides Tenax7R.

Bah I hate it when there are no pics for silly ol' me

[Jonno]

Thats a pretty good write up, this thread should be added to the FAQ.

Chain: What site did you get that from?

[Chain]

Jonno I got it from here:
http://www.scififantmodmadrealm.com/AMASFH-1.html

Not much info but some good tips for correcting seams.

[Jonno]

Cheers.

[sugarcaddy]

You know I hate to be a sour puss, but lacquer thinner does the same thing. And at a cost per once difference is well worth spending 5 bucks on a 1QT can. Sure it smells bad, but most of that other stuff does too.

I use lacquer thinner to weld joints all the time. It works just as well as any of those other "space age welders". I can put some thinner in a joint wait about 20-30 seconds and its done. I really don't recomend that you use this with painted parts-you will have a mess.

Scott

[DSM-Mark]

Originally posted by appleseed
so... i don't know what tenax or p-man's source for this new liquid glue contains but any solvent that can evaporate that quick and melt plastic may certainly enter your bloodstream through your skin and cause undocumented harm. so just be careful using this stuff and don't arbitrarily pour some excess glue on your hand just to see it evaporate and experience that evaporated aclohol sensation on your hands.

a.

I would just like to reiterate this point. Don't be stupid about chemicals that you don't know what they are. Your skin is very porous. This obviously doesn't apply only to you PMan.

[Mean_B16]

I use plastic welder which works exactly how you desrcibe this stuff, it works GREAT and makes building body kits soooo much easier because you don't have to wait as long between drying. My glue bottle says "toxic" just like yours and says "has been known to cause cancer in small lab rats so I would not recommend rubbing it on your finger anymore. just my 2 cents

[appleseed]

the photo that chain posted has the plastistruct glue in there but there is another one. the red bottle is weldene and is the 'safe' and environmentally friendly one. this one needs to cure overnight. it does not work as fast as the bondene one from the same manufacturer. the bondene one comes in a white labeling and is the one with the higher toxicity. i would recommend the bondene one as it works much faster than the weldene.

the label for the weldene says it is for styrene to styrene plastic only while the bondene works for styrene and abs plastic. abs plastic is a bit more resistant to regular plastic glues or solvents which allows me to believe that bondene attacks or melts the plastic more agressively than the weldene.


a.

[Diesel2NR]

Tenax is all I use now. It's really good stuff

[BWheel]

OK, some people have asked for some more info on 'what is Tamiya's thin glue like in comparison'... here's a bit of a run down:

Glues - they act as a glue, leave a substance in the joint that sticks the parts together. There is some bonding and softening of the plastic, but still pretty much a compound.

Tamiya's 'Ultra-Thin Cement' fits into this, and is still a glue. However, this is VERY thin, and runs uses Capillary Action to draw the glue into the seam, rather than lying on the outside. This results in a very good coverage of the glue.

On the side of BONDERS, such as Tenax, they are a bonding agent that melts the plastic, and then evaporates. If you use a normal paintbrush to put it on, it leaves a dry residue you can just flick off the brush. If you have a spill, just leave the part to dry, and the surface will be unmarred - but don't touch while wet, as said previously, you will have nice fingerprints everywhere.

Again, the easiest way to apply is to use cappillary action to draw the liquid into the joint.

Word of caution - these are extremely carcinogenic in nature (cancer causing) - use VERY well ventilated rooms, and avoid skin contact. In fact, Tenax has a huge warning label on it about this (Apparently only causes Cancer in the state of California? Go figure...). It is however really good stuff, so it's worthwhile looking at. Don't know about getting it airmail though - probably sea-mail only.

[daggerlee]

Hum, I always thought Tamiya extrathin was 'bonding' glue, doesn't it smell like regular model glue?

[Toksin]

Originally posted by primera man


If your bringing the beers !!

Sorted.

[primera man]

This will be added to the FAQ as there is a lot of good info in here for others to read.
Cheers