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Old 06-08-2003, 10:48 AM   #16
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Good lsd's are Kaaz, Quife and Cusco.
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Old 06-08-2003, 05:55 PM   #17
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I was just saying to try to keep your final gear b/c some ppl likr to buy a type r lsd and sometimes you get th efinal gear with it and I was saying to just use yours and not the type r. Unlesss you want to but the ls final gear is much better for turbo apps.
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Old 06-08-2003, 07:51 PM   #18
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Again, thatnks for the info ppl I think I'll stay away from the Type-r lsd then, unless its better. It sounds like it wouldn't be any workse to get one of theother brands u all listed, cusco, kaaz, quife, than a type-r...and that would insure my final drive isnt messed with.
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Old 06-09-2003, 03:01 PM   #19
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Re: Turbo on an LS

Quote:
Originally posted by eckoman_pdx
Okay, I have an LS in my civic. I know first off, I know I need to make it a manual tranny, thats a given. Don't ask why I have an LS auto in my car, long story. Now, my question is, I am planing to eventaully build up the engine, close the deck, etc, to handle a sh*tload of boost. My goal is 400hp. I've been researching what I need to do to get their. I know also know the LS tranny is great for Turbocharging, cuz of its longer gear ratios (I also know I'll need new axles, an LSD, etc). My question is, I was thinkin, it'd be best to keep it an LS, not an LS/Vtec, with the goals I have. I am not sure though. If I went LS/Vtec, it'd be a GSR head, and I was thinkin a Type-r tranny (has an LSD) and ecu. Or would you still keep it an LS tranny and just add the vtec ecu. I know a few places, from a few here one in cali and one in arizona, that do good LS/Vtecs. WHat are your thoughts. Keep in a regualr LS and build it up? or Build up an LS/VTec. I heard for such I high HP app, I'd be better off keepin it a regular LS.
gsr head...? EW

where are you getting info from? lsvtec turbo puts out more than built ls turbo unless you run an equally agressive cam as one thats on a high high power lsv . but even then, you would have to find a cam that would be a serious beast and then you would kill the car as a street driver. i seriously doubt you'll ever reach the kind of horsepower your expecting with an ls-t. 400 to the wheels without a good flowing b16 head is tough but not impossible . i know from experience.you have to know your way around that engine pretty well to get the power you want.

goodluck man, youve got a shitload of work ahead of you.
im getting ready to retire my fast car from the streets. a severly reworked ctr head is going on along with a new turbo manifold, some "top secret tricks" lol and a rebuilt cable ys1. im shooting for high 500 horses to the wheels with either the new 1300cc or 1100cc injectors.
im also finally going to put together the fiberglass hatch hinges so that i can put that on. and dont worry....i will post pics as soon as i pay off my best buy card and get my new camera.
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Old 06-09-2003, 09:22 PM   #20
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quaife LSD are the best I heard...and they are less expensive than cusco and Kaaz.....People don't underestimate the LS engine. It's pretty dam good engine.....and is arguably the strongest Torque B series engine you can get. It is perfect for turbo applications....you really don't need 500 HP on an integra to smoke people......255 WHP can get you 13.3 in a quarter mile...How much dam power you want? WRX's, evo's, corvettes, camaros, mustangs run about 13.3-13.5...so what more do you want? a 10 second street car is NOT going to be street legal and most likely will be uncomfortable to drive...Do you know what kind of clutch you would have to get to support 500 HP???? You'd better make sure that whoever is in front of you is out of the way..because engagement will be dam harsh! As soon as you let up it's going to engage and take off.....not to mention its going to be harder to press the clutch in....is 450-500 hp needed? I see alot of people talking about building 9, 10 second street cars......I don't think so...not legally.
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Old 06-09-2003, 10:05 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally posted by super_man_3179
a 10 second street car is NOT going to be street legal and most likely will be uncomfortable to drive...Do you know what kind of clutch you would have to get to support 500 HP???? You'd better make sure that whoever is in front of you is out of the way..because engagement will be dam harsh! As soon as you let up it's going to engage and take off.....not to mention its going to be harder to press the clutch in....is 450-500 hp needed? I see alot of people talking about building 9, 10 second street cars......I don't think so...not legally.
umm....my 10 second slip was in street legal form and before this month (retired the car from the street) i drove it on the weekends in good weather. my car has a stage 5 four puck clutch from clutchmasters with a solid springless hub which means feathering is alliminated. driving the car was not THAT hard. pushing in the clutch is not much tougher than a cm stage 2-4 clutch.
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Old 06-10-2003, 04:18 AM   #22
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Can I ask why you like the B16 head better? Superior Racing Development in Arizona (they have done over 15 tech articles in magazines in the past 2 years) told me that the GSR head is better suited for turbocharger due to the shape of cumbustion chambers on the head. They said the B16A head wasn't bad, just that the GSR head would be better for a LS/Vtec turbo. I'm not argueing, only tellin you where I heard it Also, I do know someone in cali with a 500hp ls/vtec-turbo, thing halls ass, lol. I had also heard, however, that it's better to turbocharger an LS, and not an LS/Vtec..so it all contridictong each other...hence my confusion over what to do, lol. I have that power goal. I am willing to go what route I need to attain it, and wait until I can afford to go a certain route if I have too. My goal is the power level, not doing it a certain way, so like I said in an earlier post, any input helps The more in depth the reasons the better too
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Old 06-10-2003, 08:41 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally posted by eckoman_pdx
Can I ask why you like the B16 head better? Superior Racing Development in Arizona (they have done over 15 tech articles in magazines in the past 2 years) told me that the GSR head is better suited for turbocharger due to the shape of cumbustion chambers on the head.
Quote:
They said the B16A head wasn't bad, just that the GSR head would be better for a LS/Vtec turbo. I'm not argueing, only tellin you where I heard it
that is a stock head.
Quote:
Also, I do know someone in cali with a 500hp ls/vtec-turbo, thing halls ass, lol.
hahaha......yeh...they do
Quote:
I had also heard, however, that it's better to turbocharger an LS, and not an LS/Vtec..
if you want better reliablity and less headaches....lsturbo. if you want crazy power lsvt
Quote:
...hence my confusion over what to do, lol. I have that power goal. I am willing to go what route I need to attain it, and wait until I can afford to go a certain route if I have too. My goal is the power level, not doing it a certain way, so like I said in an earlier post, any input helps The more in depth the reasons the better too
dope
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Old 06-10-2003, 12:36 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally posted by super_man_3179
quaife LSD are the best I heard...and they are less expensive than cusco and Kaaz
Kaaz should be cheaper from the 2.
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Old 06-10-2003, 07:55 PM   #25
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the LS VTEC swap is a great way to utilize a b18b, an with a turbo this motor is unstopable. There are only a few problems your going to face if not reinforceing internals. Ok first look at the rod to stroke ratio, rod to stroke ratio is the ratio of the length of the connecting rod to the length of the piston stroke, or the distance the piston travels from the top to the bottom of its stroke. A low rod to stroke ratio means the rod will be closer to a horizontal angle on its upstroke. This means that more of its force will be pushing the piston horizontally, rather than vertically. Meaning two things for your engine. First of all there will be more stress on the sides and in the center of the rod, rather than on its ends, leaving the rod more vulnerable to breaking. Second of all there will be more stress on your cylinder walls. The rod is pushing the piston at a more horizontal angle right into your cylinder walls, rather than up and through them. The risk here is putting that piston right through the cylinder wall. Or the cylinder wall will actually flex under the pressure, causing the shape to turn from a circle to an oval shape. This causes the loss of the seal created by the piston rings. A small amount of oil could slip past into the combustion chamber. Bad things happen from here. The oil gets combusted, leaving nasty carbon deposits in your combustion chamber and exhaust ports. which is a bad thing for flow or valve sealing. But if the swap is done right with replaced and stroger internals you should have no problems.
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Old 06-10-2003, 08:14 PM   #26
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hybridsol, what should I look for to make sure the swap is done right? there is one place locally that seems to know what they are doing talking to them, and Superior Racing development (they do a lot of work with Hasport) in Arizona seems to know there stuff too. But like you said, I want to make sure it is done right. I am not looking to do things wrong, and have bad things happen and ruin the engine. Secondly, what types of internal strenghtaning do you recommend. Is there anything to do about the little rod ratio problem? or is that what the strenghting of the internals helps with? I was thinking closeing the deck for sure...that open deck design of honda's seems vurnable to puressure, stress and boost, so thats a must do. But whar else...I know I need "stronger rods and bearing" since the LS has kinda weak rods and bearings (so to speak), and probably at this point new pistons to, along with new vavles, retainers, springs, etc. Some porting and polishing of the head, and I figure at least a 3 angle vavle job would be smart (or do you suggest something else?) Would knew cams be smart too? what else do you suggest? Also, I fought what its called, but there is this thing JG eninge dynamics and Dan Pormero (I spelled it wrong, I know) racing do to the head that improves the flow...it's not porting and polishing, they are doing soemething to the shape of the head..I have a book on it, but can't remember for the life of me what it is...they usually do that on high output engines. There is like milling, filling, welding, graiding, smoothing out..I know this is no help, lol. I'll post it when I remember what its called, lol. I am willing to save-up money to do everything that needs to be done to make this work and do it right, versus half-assing it and killing my engine. Is there anything you'd change that I mentioned? Or are there things I missed? I want to do the engine work right, and all at once, so any help you could give is appriacted. Also, for turbo apps..Do you like GSR heads or B16 heads? I know SRD and others I have talked to say the GSR head is better to start with if I am gonna turbo the LS/Vtec? What are your thoughts? Thanx for the help
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Old 06-11-2003, 03:27 AM   #27
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I cant really figure out what you're asking... Maybe because its 1:24am for me... but I havent a clue what you just asked...

I'll take a guess... as to say you're thinking of having your head milled for a bit more compression?




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Old 06-11-2003, 04:02 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally posted by eckoman_pdx
hybridsol, what should I look for to make sure the swap is done right? there is one place locally that seems to know what they are doing talking to them, and Superior Racing development (they do a lot of work with Hasport) in Arizona seems to know there stuff too. But like you said, I want to make sure it is done right. I am not looking to do things wrong, and have bad things happen and ruin the engine. Secondly, what types of internal strenghtaning do you recommend. Is there anything to do about the little rod ratio problem? or is that what the strenghting of the internals helps with? I was thinking closeing the deck for sure...that open deck design of honda's seems vurnable to puressure, stress and boost, so thats a must do. But whar else...I know I need "stronger rods and bearing" since the LS has kinda weak rods and bearings (so to speak), and probably at this point new pistons to, along with new vavles, retainers, springs, etc. Some porting and polishing of the head, and I figure at least a 3 angle vavle job would be smart (or do you suggest something else?) Would knew cams be smart too? what else do you suggest? Also, I fought what its called, but there is this thing JG eninge dynamics and Dan Pormero (I spelled it wrong, I know) racing do to the head that improves the flow...it's not porting and polishing, they are doing soemething to the shape of the head..I have a book on it, but can't remember for the life of me what it is...they usually do that on high output engines. There is like milling, filling, welding, graiding, smoothing out..I know this is no help, lol. I'll post it when I remember what its called, lol. I am willing to save-up money to do everything that needs to be done to make this work and do it right, versus half-assing it and killing my engine. Is there anything you'd change that I mentioned? Or are there things I missed? I want to do the engine work right, and all at once, so any help you could give is appriacted. Also, for turbo apps..Do you like GSR heads or B16 heads? I know SRD and others I have talked to say the GSR head is better to start with if I am gonna turbo the LS/Vtec? What are your thoughts? Thanx for the help
I'm not farmiliar with your area, so I guess just ask around. You are correct in assuming that strengthening your internals will improve your situation, in regards to the rod/stroke ratio. The engine needs to be rebuilt with new internals (sleeve's), bearings, seals, oil pump, etc. (what you mentioned). When rebuilding an LS bottom end, I recommend either shimming the oil pump for more pressure or using a b18c or b16a oil pump. To add the VTEC cylinder head to the b18b bottom end, you have to tap and plug to the VTEC oil supply hole found on the bottom left side of the head. A 1/8 inch pipe plug should work for this. Then run an oil supply line from a Tfitting placed on the oil pressure sending unit on the block to the VTEC oil galley plug found on the intake side of the head near the distributor. To make the oil line, you need a piece of -4 braided steel line around 20 inchs long, with two female A/N fittings attached, a 3/8 inch NPT to -4A/N adapter for the head, a 1/8 inch NPT to -4 A/N adapter and a 1/8-inch NPT Tfitting with two female sides and one male side. Also open up the dowel pin holes on the VTEC cylinder head to 9/16 inch b/c the b18b block has larger dowel pins to locate the head on the block. It is also critical to hook up the knock sensor, or the VTEC function will be crap. The engine's ECU looks for the knock sensor signal in order to activate VTEC. The B18B block has no provision for a knock sensor. If you don't want to run a knock sensor, you can do the following things. You can have a knock sensor not attached but grounded to the chassis and connected to your ECU, or Hasport I believe carries ECUs that are reprogrammed to allow VTEC operation with no knock sensor input. An LS head gasket is used with the appropriate VTEC ECU for your year and chassis of vehicle. A jumper wire running from the appropriate pin in the ECU to the VTEC control solenoid completes the activation of VTEC. But since your getting this done at a shop consider this a list of things to look for, if you suspect the shop screwed something up. (Shops are risky buisness) I recommend doing the swap yourself only then can you ensure perfection. As for the head a GSR head will give you a higher compression than the other b-series heads because of its 41.6cc combustion chamber. The smaller combustion chamber makes .2 more compression. Then you have the b16a head, the b16a head is a better flowing head 5.25% in fact and with a larger combustion chamber 42.7cc's. So for turbo aplication take a wild guess which head you should use. Then again I like the b18c head. I hope I helped out, if I missed anything feel free to comment. I wish you the best of luck.
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Old 06-11-2003, 02:33 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally posted by hybridsol

I'm not farmiliar with your area, so I guess just ask around. You are correct in assuming that strengthening your internals will improve your situation, in regards to the rod/stroke ratio. The engine needs to be rebuilt with new internals (sleeve's), bearings, seals, oil pump, etc. (what you mentioned). When rebuilding an LS bottom end, I recommend either shimming the oil pump for more pressure or using a b18c or b16a oil pump. To add the VTEC cylinder head to the b18b bottom end, you have to tap and plug to the VTEC oil supply hole found on the bottom left side of the head. A 1/8 inch pipe plug should work for this. Then run an oil supply line from a Tfitting placed on the oil pressure sending unit on the block to the VTEC oil galley plug found on the intake side of the head near the distributor. To make the oil line, you need a piece of -4 braided steel line around 20 inchs long, with two female A/N fittings attached, a 3/8 inch NPT to -4A/N adapter for the head, a 1/8 inch NPT to -4 A/N adapter and a 1/8-inch NPT Tfitting with two female sides and one male side. Also open up the dowel pin holes on the VTEC cylinder head to 9/16 inch b/c the b18b block has larger dowel pins to locate the head on the block. It is also critical to hook up the knock sensor, or the VTEC function will be crap. The engine's ECU looks for the knock sensor signal in order to activate VTEC. The B18B block has no provision for a knock sensor. If you don't want to run a knock sensor, you can do the following things. You can have a knock sensor not attached but grounded to the chassis and connected to your ECU, or Hasport I believe carries ECUs that are reprogrammed to allow VTEC operation with no knock sensor input. An LS head gasket is used with the appropriate VTEC ECU for your year and chassis of vehicle. A jumper wire running from the appropriate pin in the ECU to the VTEC control solenoid completes the activation of VTEC. But since your getting this done at a shop consider this a list of things to look for, if you suspect the shop screwed something up. (Shops are risky buisness) I recommend doing the swap yourself only then can you ensure perfection. As for the head a GSR head will give you a higher compression than the other b-series heads because of its 41.6cc combustion chamber. The smaller combustion chamber makes .2 more compression. Then you have the b16a head, the b16a head is a better flowing head 5.25% in fact and with a larger combustion chamber 42.7cc's. So for turbo aplication take a wild guess which head you should use. Then again I like the b18c head. I hope I helped out, if I missed anything feel free to comment. I wish you the best of luck.

That is alot of very helpful info hybridsol.
Is the only difference in the gsr head and the Ls head the vtec oil passage and the smaller dowel pins on the gsr head, that is for bolting up ofcourse, lol I know the other differences lol. But is that the only thing that is different for the block to head fit? What is the pesky oil leak that alot of ppl talk about? Is it the oil line to activate vtec? I am very interested in possibly doing the swap then if that is all the work you have to do to the head, b/c I was under the impression that you had to have some machine shop work done to the head for it to fit, but maybe it was just the two things above that everyone was talking about having a machine shop do.
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Old 06-11-2003, 04:45 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally posted by hybridsol

To add the VTEC cylinder head to the b18b bottom end, you have to tap and plug to the VTEC oil supply hole found on the bottom left side of the head.
if you recomend new pistons....he doesnt need that oil with forged pistons...just weighs it down and the pressure can be used other places
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