Electric forced air induction?

[gmatov]

But when the pump stalls, it isn't flowing anything. When it "stalls" on a centrifugal, the air just backs up in the housing while the impeller spins. Pressure+no flow=no more power. Flow+no pressure=no power. Exactly the same as the HP vs Torque arguement.

Nissan,

I am really sorry you bought 10 grand worht of turbo.

When you kink the hose from your 125 psi compressor, yours only, I presume, there is no longer any pressure, ie, dead tank.

When you disconnect the hose from the tank, entirely, and run the compressor, you have flow, but low (of course not NO ) pressure, so no work done. Absolutely no help, huh?

Pressure, into a manifold, or flow, into a manifold, WILL help to shove some, SOME, air, I must reiterate, into the vacuum created when the valves open.

At idle, you are at 21 inches of mercury, right?

ie, about 12 psi absolute, ie, the engine is sucking like hell to get a full cylinder, but it can't, right?

You can supply 1 MORE psi, and you do not think it can possibly help? 400 CFM more, from the git go, will not help? Simply to overcome inertia?

It will, naturally, not suck in those 400 cfm, they are just there, if needed. But, they are there RAT NOW. Not when you take your piece of paper off the nozzle. The one that is holding in the pound or so of pressure the vac or the blower can produce.

Can you understand this?

Cheers,

George

[Hit_N_Run-player]

i highly doubt fanatic spent 10grand on his turbo setup...

[gmatov]

Then, 37 bucks, though his pics show more.

Point is, ANY more air helps.

Under less vacuum, there IS more air there, regardless, available to be sucked in.

As to the post with the Oxy, and the poster who says you will turn the combustion into a cutting torch, BS. 10 % Oxy, mebbe, adding some O2, negative.

Ah, well, live and learn.

Cheers,

George

[Hypsi87]

Originally Posted by gmatov

Then, 37 bucks, though his pics show more.

Point is, ANY more air helps.

Under less vacuum, there IS more air there, regardless, available to be sucked in.

As to the post with the Oxy, and the poster who says you will turn the combustion into a cutting torch, BS. 10 % Oxy, mebbe, adding some O2, negative.

Ah, well, live and learn.

Cheers,

George

First of all o2 is oxy... oxy=oxygen which would melt pistons... You must be thinking of accetleine (sp) Second of all keep your posts on topic. That is why there is a different thread.

[gmatov]

You missed the point. I mean if you add 10% Oxy, also called O2, you might cause way too hot a flame front in the cylinder. That would be an atmosphere of 30% O2, rather than the sealevel average of just about 19%, 50% more. You might not even have enough fuel for all that O2 to combine with, run lean, and raise the temps that way.

After that it should be interpreted as "adding SOME O2, also called Oxy, negative."

This is basically what you are doing with a turbo, anyway, forcing a greater charge of air, 20% of which is O2, into the cylinder, whether you are boosting just to get to atmospheric, to fill it, or to get a couple pounds of compression into the cylinder, overfilling it a little.

As to off topic, you're right, didn't even realize this was not that thread when I wrote that.

Cheers,

George

[nissanfanatic]

lol, I wish I could spend 10k on a setup. Shit I wish I could spend 5k.

About 2.5k.

[volkmare]

I may be new to this forum, but I am not new to performance.

I read some of the posts on this subject (not all of them) and some of you are a little off base – no offence intended.

First of all, an engine does NOT suck air. Get that thought out of your heads.

Ideally speaking, an engine “displaces” the air behind the piston leaving a place in front of the piston with nothing in it.
The engine then depends solely upon atmospheric pressure to push air into the empty space. Any restriction to that flow reduces the total charge that gets pushed into the engine. Likewise any reduction in atmospheric pressure (altitude) reduces the total charge the engine receives.

There are many factors that affect the total charge, but it all starts with atmospheric pressure. Without said pressure, nothing goes in.

On my turbo Beemer, if I crack the throttle just enough to slowly spin up the snail and watch the manifold boost gauge that measures pressure between the throttle plates and the intake valves, I will feel a definite seat of the pants thrust as the gauge approaches zero pressure and inches into only ½ psi boost.

Take my Dodge V10 that I tow a fifth wheel with.
At sea level, it makes 345Hp, or so dodge says.
At 3500’ altitude where I live it does not. This is because the atmospheric pressure is 1-2psi lower here than at sea level.

If one were to put an electric blower on that engine capable of 300-500cfm AT 2psi pressure, the engine electronics would think it was back at sea level, apply the appropriate fuel to the charge and make 345 hp again.

If that pressure is more than you want, just back off the throttle and restrict the flow into the engine.

If I ever found a practical 12v blower that could do that it would be worth while topping a mountain pass towing a trailer.

Mark
Crew chief over 2 Bonneville land speed records that stood for 14 years.

[jimmer92]

Hi everyone,

I am currently doing my dissertation on applications of electric turbocharging in Motorsport and I was wondering if you could give me your opinion on it.

If you could have a go at the following questionnaire that’d be super.

https://www.surveymonkey.co.uk/r/3TWM66P

If you have any additional comments regarding electric turbocharging, then that would also be of great use to me.

Many thanks in advance

James