1986 300 Zx specs needed

[stephenp]

turbo timer as in the timer that allows it to run for several minutes after you turn it off to allow the turbo to cool????
just let it idle
or the ignition timer that adjusts the timing to increased boost at a set rate?

[DeleriousZ]

turbo timer will not add any hp... it just allows the car to run for a programmed amount of time with the key out of the ignition.. it's just a precaution after driving hard and heating up your oil... if you don't allow it to idle and circulate the oil, you'll cook the bearings in your turbo

[stephenp]

hey how exactly (roughly) did you hook up the water alkyly injection???
just so i get a rough idea to play with while i replace my bearings...

[stephenp]

and what is alkyly????
you just use windsheil;d wahser spray pump and anytime you use high boost have it turn on from the c terminal in the tps?????
what is the ratio of alkyly to water???
does it come premixed
where can i get it ???
please help

[k3smostwanted]

Originally Posted by stephenp

and what is alkyly????
you just use windsheil;d wahser spray pump and anytime you use high boost have it turn on from the c terminal in the tps?????
what is the ratio of alkyly to water???
does it come premixed
where can i get it ???
please help

its alcohol...and ask zgringo for the mixture...i think it is like 60/40 or something like that. 60 being water...

zgringo is the pro when it comes to water injection...i dont know if a windshield washer spray will provide a fine enough spray/mist. you need an injector of some sort...you know like a fuel injector, it actually sprays the gas in your engine, it doesnt stream it like a garden hose.

[ExTrEmEDrIfT]

alot of pepl use regular windshield washer fluid all it isi alchol and water mixedwith dye

[k3smostwanted]

Originally Posted by ExTrEmEDrIfT

alot of pepl use regular windshield washer fluid all it isi alchol and water mixedwith dye

really??? i didnt know that...

but would the windshield fluid sprayer supply a fine mist like, what is needed run a water injection system??? i dont think it would. even when you add the little nozzle, it still isnt a mist. hot air will absorb some of it but if the spray isnt fine enough water will get in your engine and thats not good. your just trying to cool your air with the water and it vaporizes instantly.

and cant you just use regular water...its just not as effective as the water/alky mixture.

[DeleriousZ]

yep you can use regular water, there's a good article i was just reading on it at 300zxclub.com in the z31 section... i think al made a big post on it here a while back... maybe try searching it and see if you come up with something?

[Zgringo]

I tried to find the post "D" but it's lost somewhere's in the jungle.
Windshield washer fluid is 75% water an 25% alky. It works fine for everyday use, but if your running Hi boost and no intercooler it would be best to use a mixture of 60%-40%. If your running IC then 75-25 is great.
And no you can't use a windshield washer pump. It don't put out enough pressure to create a fine mist spray as needed.
In an effort to run more boost without having to resort to running race gas full time, and to help keep our engine cool during extended high-speed runs such as hot lapping, we installed an Snow competition water/alky injection system. Unlike the crude windshield washer pump-based systems of old, the Snow system uses a sophisticated, solid-state, piston-type pump that pumps the water at 125 psi. At this high pressure, there is little likelihood that boost pressure can reduce water flow significantly. A windshield washer pump, by contrast, can only run 10 to 20 psi. If you only have a 10 psi water pump and are running 20 psi of boost pressure, you will end up reverse-flowing boost pressurized air throughout your water/alky injection system. Water/alky injection relies on water's naturally high specific heat, which means it requires a lot of heat to change liquid water into water vapor (steam). The high specific heat is one of the reasons why water is an excellent coolant. When injected into an engine, water does several things. When it is first injected, some of the water vaporizes absorbing heat from the incoming intake stream. This helps cool the hot intake charge in much the same way nitrous oxide injected into the intake of a nitrous-equipped car does. Since the Z's stuffy engine compartment and intake tract suffer from heat soak, we will really need this intercooling effect. Once inside the combustion chamber, the water is fully vaporized into steam. This vaporization absorbs a tremendous amount of heat from the combustion reaction, helping cool the engine internally to prevent glowing hot spots (areas of self-ignition where detonation propagates). The heat absorbed from the water's phase change also acts to buffer the combustion event, slowing it down. Thus, the water helps regular pump gas behave much like slow, controlled-burn, high-octane race gas. The superheated steam also acts like a powerful steam cleaner inside of the engine, removing compression-raising, hot-spot-propagating carbon deposits from the combustion chamber and spark plugs. This is a pretty cool side benefit of water injection. Since water absorbs power-producing heat, it does not produce quite the same horsepower per psi of boost as race gas does, but it does allow quite a bit of additional boost. Because of its cooling and combustion buffering effects, water also goes a long way to eliminate engine-damaging detonation. The Snow water/alky injection system uses a unique proprietary atomizer nozzle to introduce the water to the intake air stream. The nozzle produces a range of droplet sizes from a fine fog to a coarse mist. This helps the water work more efficiently. The fine water fog vaporizes almost immediately, helping reduce the intake air temperature by about 20 to 30 degrees. The larger droplets do not vaporize until they reach the combustion chamber where they can perform their internal cooling and combustion buffering duties. All of the droplets are small enough where the even distribution of water throughout the manifold plenum is assured. Since most modern fuel injected cars have manifolds that are designed to flow dry air only, not a mixture of liquid and air, the maintenance of correct water droplet size is critical for even cylinder-to-cylinder water distribution. Since we first tried the Snow system, we have had nothing but success with water injection for both increasing power and getting more reliability out of heavily boosted engines. The Snow an Aquamist system works so well that almost all of the psycho turbocharged Group-A rally cars in Europe use this exact system with up to 3 bar of boost. Some rally cars use two pumps with multiple nozzles for even more water flow. In fact, the European-market Ford Sierra Cosworth uses this system as original equipment from the factory! This alone speaks highly of the system's reliability and performance. In previous testing, the Snow system was able to keep a turbocharged SE-R's engine from getting coolant temperatures above 200 degrees during hard track lapping on a 100-degree day. Stock SE-Rs will normally overheat under these conditions, no less turbocharged. This is a strong testament to the ability of water injection to keep an engine from overheating under extreme conditions. Since the Z's tight engine compartment suffers from poor air circulation and the Z is also prone to overheat under track conditions, the Snow system is going to be one of our strategies to help keep the engine cool and in one piece at the track. The Snow system can be tuned using different sizes of jets ranging from 0.40 mm to 1.0 mm. We opted for twin 0.5 mm jets, treating our engine as two, small 1500-cc three-cylinder engines. We used the Z's rear-mounted windshield washer reservoir as the water holding tank for the Snow system, since the Z is so tight that there was no place else to fit an additional water tank. Because of the Z's lack of space, we were forced to mount the Snow pump to the backside of the front bumper support. This sounds less than ideal, but because space goes for such a premium in a Z, this was literally the only place we could find! To partially offset the power-reducing, internal-quenching effect produced by the water, a leaner fuel-air mixture and more ignition advance can be run. Advancing timing on a turbocharged engine that has been retarded to avoid detonation will not only increase power output, but also reduce exhaust gas temperature--a good thing. JWT will program a special ECU that has a special map to complement the water injection system once we get close to getting our engine running. The water injection system is almost like having a perpetual tank full of race gas--without the $5-per-gallon cost. After all, water is cheap. For once in the history of hot rodding, something can be done for nearly nothing. As an interesting side note, water injection also reduces toxic oxides of nitrogen emissions by reducing combustion temperatures. All of these advantages and cleaner air to boot.

[ExTrEmEDrIfT]

wow nice article i think it took me 10 mins to read and about those rally cars running it on their cars ive heard this and pretty cool because it is a really cheap efficient system and dayumn 3 bar .....

i didnt know the cosworth however came stock with the water/alky injection system interesting...


how much did the Snow competition water/alky injection system cost??

[92rs25th]

Ok , I went ahead and bought the vehicle , Apparently it was listed wrong and it's an 84' but anyways , Runs like a top. Boost seems to work proper. I did some dieting for it today , Completely removed the entire A/c system and brackets. On a side note , that damn ac motor bracket was a bitch to get off. So that's up for grabs , 50.00 Plus shipping and you get it all if anyone wants it. It's a new A/c motor too. Yes - To the earlier question of it having the electric control suspension. The guy put coil overs in the back , I'm going to cut the stock cat out and put a magna flow hi-flo cat in probably tomorrow. I stripped the interior - The carpet was shot. All the panels from the door back are up for grabs too if anyone wants them. They are a light brown and none are broken.

I do have one issue though , I hit about 35 mph and my speedometer quit on me , Now the bastard doesn't work at all.

Does anyone know what's up with that ? Is it just a fuse somewhere , a short , Or is the gauge blown ? I'd really like to get it working since I don't quite have insurance on the car yet and getting pulled over for speeding and being asked for insurance papers would be a bad thing.

Thanks for the feedback in advance guys !

The Z is a great car. Smoked me a Civic XD

[k3smostwanted]

Originally Posted by Zgringo

I tried to find the post "D" but it's lost somewhere's in the jungle.
Windshield washer fluid is 75% water an 25% alky. It works fine for everyday use, but if your running Hi boost and no intercooler it would be best to use a mixture of 60%-40%. If your running IC then 75-25 is great.
And no you can't use a windshield washer pump. It don't put out enough pressure to create a fine mist spray as needed.
In an effort to run more boost without having to resort to running race gas full time, and to help keep our engine cool during extended high-speed runs such as hot lapping, we installed an Snow competition water/alky injection system. Unlike the crude windshield washer pump-based systems of old, the Snow system uses a sophisticated, solid-state, piston-type pump that pumps the water at 125 psi. At this high pressure, there is little likelihood that boost pressure can reduce water flow significantly. A windshield washer pump, by contrast, can only run 10 to 20 psi. If you only have a 10 psi water pump and are running 20 psi of boost pressure, you will end up reverse-flowing boost pressurized air throughout your water/alky injection system. Water/alky injection relies on water's naturally high specific heat, which means it requires a lot of heat to change liquid water into water vapor (steam). The high specific heat is one of the reasons why water is an excellent coolant. When injected into an engine, water does several things. When it is first injected, some of the water vaporizes absorbing heat from the incoming intake stream. This helps cool the hot intake charge in much the same way nitrous oxide injected into the intake of a nitrous-equipped car does. Since the Z's stuffy engine compartment and intake tract suffer from heat soak, we will really need this intercooling effect. Once inside the combustion chamber, the water is fully vaporized into steam. This vaporization absorbs a tremendous amount of heat from the combustion reaction, helping cool the engine internally to prevent glowing hot spots (areas of self-ignition where detonation propagates). The heat absorbed from the water's phase change also acts to buffer the combustion event, slowing it down. Thus, the water helps regular pump gas behave much like slow, controlled-burn, high-octane race gas. The superheated steam also acts like a powerful steam cleaner inside of the engine, removing compression-raising, hot-spot-propagating carbon deposits from the combustion chamber and spark plugs. This is a pretty cool side benefit of water injection. Since water absorbs power-producing heat, it does not produce quite the same horsepower per psi of boost as race gas does, but it does allow quite a bit of additional boost. Because of its cooling and combustion buffering effects, water also goes a long way to eliminate engine-damaging detonation. The Snow water/alky injection system uses a unique proprietary atomizer nozzle to introduce the water to the intake air stream. The nozzle produces a range of droplet sizes from a fine fog to a coarse mist. This helps the water work more efficiently. The fine water fog vaporizes almost immediately, helping reduce the intake air temperature by about 20 to 30 degrees. The larger droplets do not vaporize until they reach the combustion chamber where they can perform their internal cooling and combustion buffering duties. All of the droplets are small enough where the even distribution of water throughout the manifold plenum is assured. Since most modern fuel injected cars have manifolds that are designed to flow dry air only, not a mixture of liquid and air, the maintenance of correct water droplet size is critical for even cylinder-to-cylinder water distribution. Since we first tried the Snow system, we have had nothing but success with water injection for both increasing power and getting more reliability out of heavily boosted engines. The Snow an Aquamist system works so well that almost all of the psycho turbocharged Group-A rally cars in Europe use this exact system with up to 3 bar of boost. Some rally cars use two pumps with multiple nozzles for even more water flow. In fact, the European-market Ford Sierra Cosworth uses this system as original equipment from the factory! This alone speaks highly of the system's reliability and performance. In previous testing, the Snow system was able to keep a turbocharged SE-R's engine from getting coolant temperatures above 200 degrees during hard track lapping on a 100-degree day. Stock SE-Rs will normally overheat under these conditions, no less turbocharged. This is a strong testament to the ability of water injection to keep an engine from overheating under extreme conditions. Since the Z's tight engine compartment suffers from poor air circulation and the Z is also prone to overheat under track conditions, the Snow system is going to be one of our strategies to help keep the engine cool and in one piece at the track. The Snow system can be tuned using different sizes of jets ranging from 0.40 mm to 1.0 mm. We opted for twin 0.5 mm jets, treating our engine as two, small 1500-cc three-cylinder engines. We used the Z's rear-mounted windshield washer reservoir as the water holding tank for the Snow system, since the Z is so tight that there was no place else to fit an additional water tank. Because of the Z's lack of space, we were forced to mount the Snow pump to the backside of the front bumper support. This sounds less than ideal, but because space goes for such a premium in a Z, this was literally the only place we could find! To partially offset the power-reducing, internal-quenching effect produced by the water, a leaner fuel-air mixture and more ignition advance can be run. Advancing timing on a turbocharged engine that has been retarded to avoid detonation will not only increase power output, but also reduce exhaust gas temperature--a good thing. JWT will program a special ECU that has a special map to complement the water injection system once we get close to getting our engine running. The water injection system is almost like having a perpetual tank full of race gas--without the $5-per-gallon cost. After all, water is cheap. For once in the history of hot rodding, something can be done for nearly nothing. As an interesting side note, water injection also reduces toxic oxides of nitrogen emissions by reducing combustion temperatures. All of these advantages and cleaner air to boot.

WOW...ill read chapters 5-12 later!!!

[92rs25th]

Oh , I had the question of -> Would cutting the cat out help or decrease performance ? I would fill the whole with a straight pipe leading out to the muffler.

[DeleriousZ]

depending on how plugged up it was (probably quite a bit) you'll notice a pretty amazing gain with it out of there..

[92rs25th]

Well it's an 84 and it has 130K original miles on it and they guy said it was his dads car and the exhaust is all original. So I imagine it's probably pretty plugged up lol. after 21 years of use ?

Will it sound good out the muffler too ?