1990 Volvo 780 block

jimh · 01-22-2006, 08:58 PM

Pardon my lack of knowledge, but I have never owned a Volvo. A buddy of mine has this 780 that probably has a busted block. I think one of his sons let it run out of oil. My question is, I heard that this 4 cyl block might be the same for numerous cars, maybe even some Fords. I think the engine code is B230FT (2316 cc/2.3L Turbo). At this point I am assuming that IF I can get a used block, that I could get this back on the road without too much effort or $$$s. Or, if I wanted to do it right, get a rebuilt short block, with all the new lower half parts. How interchangable are these 2316cc blocks? Is there somewhere that gives a list on what is "swap-able"? I have used "automotiveforums.com" numerous times for my '95 Suburban and a couple of other cars, and have been thrilled with the responses and results. If anyone has any advise about this project, I would be very gratefull. Thanks in advance.

aleekat · 01-23-2006, 08:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jimh

Pardon my lack of knowledge, but I have never owned a Volvo. A buddy of mine has this 780 that probably has a busted block. I think one of his sons let it run out of oil. My question is, I heard that this 4 cyl block might be the same for numerous cars, maybe even some Fords. I think the engine code is B230FT (2316 cc/2.3L Turbo). At this point I am assuming that IF I can get a used block, that I could get this back on the road without too much effort or $$$s. Or, if I wanted to do it right, get a rebuilt short block, with all the new lower half parts. How interchangable are these 2316cc blocks? Is there somewhere that gives a list on what is "swap-able"? I have used "automotiveforums.com" numerous times for my '95 Suburban and a couple of other cars, and have been thrilled with the responses and results. If anyone has any advise about this project, I would be very gratefull. Thanks in advance.

http://epic.mcmaster.ca/~bill/volvo/...se/700cars.htm

Probably easier to get an entire engine.

jimh · 01-23-2006, 09:29 AM

Thanks for the reply, although it was not the most cost effective answer that I was looking for. But thanks anyway!

aleekat · 01-26-2006, 09:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jimh

Thanks for the reply, although it was not the most cost effective answer that I was looking for. But thanks anyway!

Actually, low mileage B230f is cheaper than rebuilding...

jimh · 01-26-2006, 10:09 PM

I found a B230FT for $925. Since you know more about these machines than I do, what is "low mileage" considered. They had between 80,000 and 150,000 miles. Supposedly compression and leak down tested, shipping included with 90 day warranty, 6 month and 1 year available for some extra $s.

aleekat · 01-27-2006, 07:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jimh

I found a B230FT for $925. Since you know more about these machines than I do, what is "low mileage" considered. They had between 80,000 and 150,000 miles. Supposedly compression and leak down tested, shipping included with 90 day warranty, 6 month and 1 year available for some extra $s.

Getting 300,000 is not unusual mileage if taken care of. You may shop around some more. Don't know where your located, so that price may be inline. If you are doing your own maintenance, then definitely go over to http://www.brickboard.com/. The forum for 700s, lots of smart guys. Also, upper right hand corner, select link, scroll down to 700/900FAQs. This alone has saved me lots of money.

jimh · 01-27-2006, 07:30 AM

I'm in St. Louis, MO. Do any of the other Ford companys share this block, just in case I wanted to rebuild a short block, or should I make sure to stay with Volvo items?

aleekat · 01-27-2006, 08:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jimh

I'm in St. Louis, MO. Do any of the other Ford companys share this block, just in case I wanted to rebuild a short block, or should I make sure to stay with Volvo items?

Not sure about the Fords. I know the redblock is a pretty reliable motor if taken care of. The turbos have beefier rods/lower compression than the non-turbos.(in case someone wanted to sell you a nonturbo). There is a guy at the Volvo dealership in St. Louis who has pretty good prices. He may know where a good deal on a motor is. Too expensive if you buy from Volvo. Richard in parts-800-844-9502

You might post this question over at brickboard in the 700 forum.

jimh · 01-27-2006, 08:26 AM

Thanks aleekat! The $925 engine is a turbo (thanks for info on difference from non-turbo). Of course that price is without the turbo, but has exhaust and intake manifolds. It should be pretty much ready to drop in. I'll touch base with your contact, I might just learn something.
Thanks again.

jimh · 01-27-2006, 03:39 PM

Yo "aleekat"! Thanks for the contact. I talked to him "very" quickly. The weather was just too good here in St. Louis today and they had a number of people that "got sick". Imagine that! He said that he knew of a couple of motors. I will give him a call on Monday when he is not soooooo stressed. Let you know what happens. I'm just kind of excited about this 780. But I like weird, hard to find, hard to find parts for kind of stuff. Thanks again.
Jim

aleekat · 01-27-2006, 10:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jimh

Yo "aleekat"! Thanks for the contact. I talked to him "very" quickly. The weather was just too good here in St. Louis today and they had a number of people that "got sick". Imagine that! He said that he knew of a couple of motors. I will give him a call on Monday when he is not soooooo stressed. Let you know what happens. I'm just kind of excited about this 780. But I like weird, hard to find, hard to find parts for kind of stuff. Thanks again.
Jim

Great news. Definitely go over to the brickboard, the 700/900faqs like I posted. Worth its weight in gold. Also http://www.fcpgroton.com If not on their website, call them. Very Volvo friendly and good prices.

jimh · 02-28-2006, 02:52 AM

Aleekat,
Well, I dove in and bought my 1st Volvo, busted block and all. Bought a used motor, pulled the bad one out and dropped the used one in. After numerous cranks, it sputtered to a start. Died if I gave it gas, restarts OK. Finally got it to idle. Had a check engine light. Found out how to check the codes. 123 (Coolant Temp) and 212 (Oxygen Sensor)! Cleared codes, restarted and after it warmed up, still have the 212. $60(universal) to $160 (oem). Any difference in anyones opinion? I have to get it running a little more reliably before counting on it for transportation. Let you know what happens after the sensor.

POST REPLY TO THIS THREAD