98 Ultra passenger window stuck

[Foolzrushn]

I had the passenger window stuck on my 98 PA Ultra, due to lack of cycling. The process of removing the door panel would basically be the same for the driver's side door. I believe that the 1997 through 2005 Park Avenues are similar.

To remove door panel:
1. Pry out inner door handle surround carefully, with a flat screwdriver. Notice from the picture, that the forward end should be lifted first, then slide it forward to clear the hooks on the aft side and then off of the door handle.


2. Remove plastic screw cover in finger recess of the armrest. Notice that the forward end is lifted first, then slide the screw cover forward to clear the aft prongs, while lifting it out. Careful to not break off the rearward plastic prongs. Remove 2 screws.


3. Remove plastic fastener from round air duct in door, where 'heated air' enters the door for outside mirror visibility in winter. The fastener has already been removed in the picture. (Note: I installed a threaded riv-nut in the door structure hole, so I could use a screw for easy removal the next time.)


4. Carefully pry out light housing in aft lower edge of door. Pry a little at a time on one side then the other. Remove the hidden screw under housing location, after disconnecting the electrical connector.


5. Pry with flat brake tool, screwdriver or similar tool, around sides and bottom of door panel to release panel from door structure.

6. The panel is now ready to be lifted by pulling up on the bottom of the panel. There are several large plastic hooks that fit through square holes in the door structure that hold the weight of the panel. Lift and wiggle panel about an inch or two until the hooks come out of the holes. The panel will still have electrical connectors to disconnect before it is completely free. Let the panel drop away from the door so you can use both hands on the connectors.

There is a sound/moisture barrier (thin black foam sheet) stuck to the door structure under the panel with VERY gooey adhesive. After I removed the barrier, I covered the adhesive with strips of paper towel so I would not get it all over everything while I worked on the door. My barrier was falling apart, so I left it out on reassembly. You might replace it with plastic sheeting if you have some on hand.

In my case, I had to remove the window motor (3 screws) so I could work with the window lifting arms. The linkage had rusted at the point where the arms cross.


I used penetrating oil on the arm pivot point and pried with a flat screwdriver, to force the gear teeth on the linkage to move again. The motor did not have the power to move the rusted arms pivot.

The motor was OK, although I removed the cover and lubed the motor bushings with grease, being careful not to get any on the motor brush commutator. After I cycled the linkage and got it loose, I replaced the motor, hooked up the door panel switch and made sure that the motor would work the window. If you do this, mark the motor housing so you don't end up with the motor magnets (motor case) reversed, causing your window to go in the opposite direction of the window switch.

If you find something broken, and will need to search for parts, use a chunk of 2x4 cut to the proper length to hold up the window temporarily so you can use the car with the motor removed.
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