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Old 11-07-2005, 12:38 AM   #1
Sleepr awd
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Exclamation READ THIS BEFORE POSTING!!! The Comprehensive Guide to Modifying Your 3g

The Comprehensive Guide to Modifying your 3g


Step one: Covering your bases
If your car is not running correctly, you should not be modifying your car. Make sure everything under the hood is running in tip top shape and that there is nothing wrong with anything on your vehicle, this applies across the board and will save you a lot of time and money in the long run.

Step Two: Applying Murphy's Law
The best way to go about modifying your car is to procure a cushion of at least 1000$. This may be too little for most people, but it is a good starting point for beginners. You will run into bumps in the road such as: bent wheels, fender benders, worn tires, and thieves. Insurance deductables for accidents and random large animals in the road in the middle of the night may cause a need to for money to be available on a moments notice especially if this is your primary or only ride. Wheel locks, alarms, etc are all good ideas to prevent thieves, avoiding them altogether is not going to happen unfortunately. The cushion of money will also help you pay for parts when awesome deals arrive. During my time owning a 3g a person was selling his T3/T4 turbo, fmic, 2 FPR's, e-manage, injectors, and gauges for 550 shipped. Many of those parts will cost more than 500 shipped new. Having your cushion will also help you keep from backtracking. When you have to sell purchased parts for less than what they are worth to you to pay for tickets, or things that happen, your setting yourself back two-fold.

Step Three: Financial advice
I'm not a financial person, but I do know that. Do not use credit, and in the best case scenario, have your car payed for before modifying it. Although many don't think of it, your car payment is tying you down and adding extra payments with credit cards for car-parts is the least wise way to go. Have cash to pay for parts. It will also keep you from backtracking furthur due to credit card interest costing you more money as well. Getting trapped in debt is depressing as well and may cause you to sell your car. We don't want this to happen to you.

Step Four: the Guarantee
Using your paypal account is probably the easiest way to keep track of your money and who you have made payments to. It can also keep your butt covered by allowing you to have a moneyback guarantee in case you don't receive what you have purcased. Personally, I got screwed on my first purchase for my car for 180$ for 2 GTS wheels, I used paypal, however I did not have the money for the guarantee and lost 180$, when it could have cost me 20$ to purchase the guarantee and gotten my money back when money was tight. The money back guarantee is always a good idea even if it pays off once.

Step Five: Efficiency
Once you have your cushion, do everything you can as efficiently as possible. Do not spend money twice. If your plan include forced induction, think twice before purchasing a Cold-Air intake, that will be replaced later by turbo or supercharger. Do not buy a lower end part, when you will need to replace it later for a more expensive part that you could have purchased in the first place. If your going to do something that would be cheaper to do in a package, then do it. For instance, instead of replacing your clutch, flywheel, differential, and motor mount separately, get the clutch you will need to fit your application, the flywheel of your choice, the limited slip differential, and the motor mounts all at once. It is much cheaper to do it that way than to take the same thing apart again and again and again. Research Every part you purchase, read reviews, talk to people that have it and have had it for a while. Various parts can be had for cheap that may or may not work and other members will know, whereas the company you purchase it from will not tell you if it will actually work. Do not half-do anything. If you have the money, you might become a guinea pig for a part so that other members will know as well, but before doing so make sure no one else has had problems with it.

Step Six: The Simple Rule
If you can't do something right the first time, you had better have enough time to do it at least once more.
When replacing the turbo on my friend's GVR-4, We bought all the necessary parts and attempted at performing the swap. In the process we discovered the person that had it before us half-did almost everything or thought it was "good-enough". We ended up taking the turbo and all necessary components off 3 times and it has been to automotive shops for oil and antifreeze leeks 4 times because of the person before us's half-done attempts and ill-fitted hoses that "looked good".

** recently the same guy that rebuilt my friend's car from the ground up has caused even more problems. the 4g63 motor is built to take 20psi fairly regularly. It was also bought under the pretenses that the motor was freshly rebuilt not more than 6k miles ago. When he went about torquing the bolts of the head onto the block, he did not use the specified amount of torque and it has since warped the head (from pushing mild boost) and needs to be replaced, that the water pump, and the oil pan/line have been done since then and all at different times. This is the 4th set of belts, alternator, timing belt to go into this car in the past month. so TAKE THIS INTO CONSIDERATION. If you don't know what you are doing please have a professional do it for you, or at least follow the directions.


Step Seven: Balance

Don't un balance your car. I'm not talking about keeping weight 50/50. Purchase parts for your car that will not only make it go faster, but also stop faster and turn faster. If your car runs 12's but can't pull more than .6g lateral or stop from 60mph in 200ft, you're definitely digging yourself a grave, don't neglect your brakes, suspension, tires in your aim to go faster.


Step Eight: Never forget pushing the limits

Never forget murphy's law: If anything can go wrong. IT WILL.
I've experienced this 5 times already, and I have had my car for a year and a half. It will happen, and it will happen when you are least prepared to deal with it. When you are pushing your car to its limits make sure you are ready for it to blow up, even if it is said to be within reliability. My friend turbocharged his 95 GS eclipse and pushed the psi to 5 lbs of boost, at this point his transmission fell out and he asked his mom and dad to use the credit card for a new one. Not everyone has mom and dad anymore.


Step Nine: Know your limits
At a certain point, a fast car no longer becomes fun to drive. Cars can be too fast to be driven daily and make sure this is in your plan. Have a beater to drive if you plan on going to this level, and there is nothing wrong with a 13 second car that you can drive everyday as opposed to a 11 second track queen. Traction will always be an issue with Front wheel drive, and would be worse in a 12 second car on snow. Think about what you want and what it will take to get there.


Favorite Links:

Want to find out how a turbo works? Can't find out how to change your air filter? www.howstuffworks.com

Eclipse forums
www.club3g.com << awesome information and helpful members
www.neweclipse.org << carefull sifting through some of the info and beware of their club3g jealousy hissy fits, i'm currently banned from this site for expressing a view that did not match the moderator's ideals. their mission statement is not how they run their site

Looking for parts?
www.roadraceengineering.com -- various parts and useful install how to's
www.tearstone.com -- turbos and various parts
www.rippmods.com -- superchargers and performance parts
http://www.deyemeracing.com soild/firm motor mounts

http://www.oxygensensorwholesale.com New O2 Sensors

http://www.amazonhose.com Hoses and fittings

http://www.bakerprecision.com/ Fittings Flanges hoses

http://bellengineering.net/ Not much for our cars but alot of info on turbo's

http://www.precisionte.com/ Turbo's and wastegate's

http://www.tialsport.com wastegates BOV's and more.

http://www.turboxs.com BOV's boost controllers.

http://www.summitracing.com again not much for our cars but they do have plug wires etc...

http://www.zex.com Plugs

http://www.rceng.com/ Injectors

http://www.roadraceengineering.com/ good info and some hard to find parts from the 2G that will work on our cars. Not to mention a ton of stuff for the 3g as well.

http://www.titanmotorsports.com Gauges

http://www.apexi.com/ for the S-AFC.

http://www.aempower.com FMU and E-manage

http://www.forcedperformance.net Turbo's and Stuff

http://www.tuner-world.com

http://www.jegs.com Link to fittings and adapters
Instructions on how to install a S-ACF v.1 or v.2 on ANY 3G!
http://opusx.dyndns.org/garage/safc/install.pdf

Right click save as!!

http://www.prostreetonline.com/ Lots of great parts and info!

All your exhaust needs and at very good prices!! Mandrel bends, flex pipe, O2 bungs and much much more!

http://www.exhaustdepot.net

http://injector.com/injectorselection.php

http://www.straightliners.co.uk/calcs/eng-disp-calc.htm
Calculate Engine Displacement

http://www.majorleagueduning.com/te.../Airflow_hp.htm
How much CFM do you need from your boost to achieve a certain amount of HP calculator?


http://www.turbofast.com.au/TFmatch.html Other Turbo Info

http://www.hightempsilicone.com Cool Flex Radiator hoses

http://4G64.com

www.rpw.com.au
www.pjautomotive.com <<sells various eclipse parts, including a generic CAI



--taking suggestions for this ^^ and i yanked pieces from random threads, thanks cficare and eclipsed4utoo


Courtesy of Eclipsed4utoo




For all you guys and girls out there who want to do modifications to their 3G, I have made a list of a number of parts that you can start with. These are parts that I would recommend. If there are other parts that you want, don't let me stop you from getting them. Remember, it is YOUR car. I will also list websites to get each part. You may find sites that are cheaper than the ones that I post. If so, get the parts from whereever. I am not looking around the internet for the lowest prices. You will notice that I post Tearstone's (Russ) website alot. That is mainly because I've met him, he is a good guy, he knows alot about the 3G, his site is easy to navigate, and he mainly sells parts for the 3G. You can find most of these parts on plenty of other websites.

You will notice that not all of these modifications will increase your HP. Some will increase handling and braking. You will also notice that I will not list any stereo systems, undercar neons, decals, body kits, or any other visual mods. These mods are strictly for the performance of the car.

------------------------------------------------------

First and foremost, I want to get this out of the way. THERE IS NOT CHIP MADE FOR THE 3G. THE PIECES OF CRAP THAT ARE SOLD ON EBAY ARE A JOKE. THE JET MODULES CANNOT DO ANYTHING FOR YOU. THROTTLE BODY SPACERS WILL DO NOTHING BUT LIGHTEN YOUR WALLET. SO WILL ELECTRIC SUPERCHARGERS AND THE "TURBONATOR". If you want to spend your money on these, you can feel free to send that money to me. You will get the same reward out of it.

------------------------------------------------------


With that being said, we will start with the most basic mods then work up....


Intake

AEM/Injen/K&N - These three CAI are basically the same. You won't go wrong with either one of the three you decide to buy. You may hear people talk about CAI vs. WAI. Neither one is better than the other. They will both give you about the same HP gains. Some people say that a WAI is louder so they like that better. Either way you want to go will be good. The only advise I will give you is to STAY AWAY FROM EBAY INTAKES. These intakes usually are crap and will not fit.

http://www.club3g.com/forum/showthread.php...ght=ebay+intake

You can usually get the name brand intakes from most online vendors. However, I have found that NOPI has the most comprehensive list of intakes. NOPI

CAI = Cold air intake
WAI= Warm air intake (shorter version of a Cold Air Intake)
SRI= Short Ram Intake =WAI



Exhaust

There are a number of manufacturers that make exhausts for the 3G. GReddy, JIC, Apex'i, HKS, Borla, Magnaflow, Injen, Razzi(dual exhaust), and Invidia. All of these, with the exception of the HKS, are full cat-back exhausts. You can also get most of these from NOPI. Exhausts are ok to get from Ebay, but research the seller before buying. I believe the Invidia is regularly sold on Ebay.

And to make things better, any exhaust that is made for the 2G GS-T(not GSX) will also fit the 3G with minor modifications. These modifications can be made by a muffler shop for very cheap.

These exhaust will give you next to nothing in the performance aspect, but they will make the car sound awesome. Not the raspy, **** off bubble bee sound that the local ricers sound like. These exhaust produce a low, mellow, deep tone.

You will need to know whether your 3G is a fed-spec or a cali-spec eclipse. If you have a 02+, then you have a cali-spec.

If you have a 2000 or 2001 eclipse, use the following methods to figure out which you have...

Quote:
On the GT, the easiest is to slide under the front of the car, near the passenger tire. Look up. If you see a big bulky rectangular thing with some pipes coming out of it, you've got Cali emissions. If don't, you've got fed emmissions.
Quote:

The second way involves looking at some numbers and appears to be valid for 2000 model year Eclipses only. Pop the hood of the car. There is a sticker on the firewall behind the engine. It's behind the intake plenum, on the plenum's passenger side. On that sticker is a series of numbers and letters. If the 2nd to last number is a 9, you've got Cali emissions. If it's a 4, you've got a Fed spec car.
IF you have a fed-spec eclipse, then you will have to have modifications made to the exhaust for it to fit on your car. If you have a cali-spec, then the exhausts will be bolt-on.



Headers

Long-Tube

This is where things start getting a little more difficult. I will try to explain this the best way I can. There are two types of headers: Long-tube headers and Short-tube headers. Long-tube headers will give you more HP gain but will also be more expensive than their Short-tube counterparts.

We will start with the Long-tube headers. There are three manufacturers who make long-tube headers for the 3G: Hytech, RIPP Mods, and RPW.

Hytech are the most expensive, running you about $1900. However, they will give you the most HP gain. I have seen gains of 40whp from these headers. These headers are not currently being produced anymore. You can either buy them used or contact Hytech and have them make you a set. Hytech currently only has the headers for the V6. Sorry 4cyl guys.

RIPP Mods also sells long-tube headers for the 3G. They will run you about $1200(V6) and they are said to give you around 30whp. However, I have seen many people get 10whp from these headers.

RIPP Mods - V6
RIPP Mods - 4cyl

RPW also sells long-tube headers for the V6. They can be purchased from RPW or Tearstone.

Short-tube

Now for the short-tube headers, there are more manufacturers. BFD, XIR, and CMF are common ones. These are all basically the same headers. You can probably find them on ebay. RPW out of Australia also makes a set of headers. They are well designed headers and will probably give you the most HP from the short-tube headers. They can be found Here.

DC Sports also makes a header for the 4cyl. It can be found here

OBX makes a pretty crappy header for the 3G. But its cheap, so that is also an option.

RPW's 4cyl Race Header


Electronics

If you decide to get headers for your 3G, you will likely need some type of electronic fuel management unit to tune the engine. Headers normally tend to make the 3G run rich.

Piggybacks

The most basic fuel management unit is the SAFC2. SAFC means Super Air/Fuel Controller. This unit will allow you to tune the A/F ratio (Air to Fuel ratio) to keep the car running stoich. Apex'i and HKS makes this type of fuel controller. The Apex'i one can be found on Tearstone's site

The next step up would be to the GReddy Emanage Blue.
Quote:
e-Manage is an inexpensive programmable fuel management system that allows you to properly tune your factory fuel system without having to change the entire factory ECU system to an expensive "stand-alone" unit. The e-Manage system is a universal "piggy-back" type unit which taps into most Japanese factory ECU wiring, by utilizing the existing sensors. Basic functions will allow the user to slightly alter factory injector duty-cycle (± 20% at 5 preset RPM points) by intercepting and altering airflow or MAP sensor signals. For Honda VTEC cars you can adjust the VTEC shift point. Additional features are built into the system but are only accessible through the use of the e0-1 programmer or our PC-Windows based "e-Manage Support Tool" communication software (Please see our Authorized GReddy Support Dealers for more information). There is a 16x16 airflow adjustment map, larger main injector correction adjustment, upgrade air flow meter adjustment, boost limiter cut, anti-engine stall, VTEC-fuel adjustment, real-time map trace, real-time display, real-time communication and basic Data-logging. With the use of our "Optional Injector Harness" and the software, the unit has the ability to control an additional 16x16 injector duty cycle map and the controls for adding up to 2 additional sub-injectors. If the "Optional Ignition Harness" and the software are used the unit has the ability to control a 16x16 ignition timing map. All of the above maps can also be map-traced in real-time as well. If the factory range of map or airflow meter is surpassed, you can incorporate our "Optional GReddy Pressure Sensor and Pressure Harness" to set larger scales of adjustment.


It can be found Here

For the Emange Blue, you will also need these harnesses: Injector Harness and Ignition Harness

After that, the next step is the GReddy Emanage Ultimate.

Quote:
In addition to standard e-manage airflow-based adjustments, the Ultimate version includes new and upgraded features. Included is a PC-based Ultimate Support Tool software CD, with an easy-to-use Parameter Set-up, tab menu format and speedy USB communication. Ultimate has improved direct Map control for adding and subtracting Fuel and Ignition. The ability to switch between 2 preset tuning Maps (i.e. Street or Race program) via externally mounted toggle switches. There are Maps for Individual cylinder adjustment for both Fuel and Ignition. There are also options to convert injection and ignition systems (i.e. group or sequential injection and group or individual fire ignition.) An Airflow Output Map option even allows for airflow meter elimination. And when used with a wideband A/F Meter, the Air Fuel Target Map can self-tune an Injector base tuning Map, to speed up initial tuning. There are also built-in Boost, Rev and Speed Limiter-Cut features. To create super smooth operation, there are various fine tuning Correction Maps to adjust for Throttle Acceleration, Vehicle Speed, Water Temp, Intake Temp, Auto Trans Shift, Anti Engine Stall, and Idle. To further aid in tuning, e-manage Ultimate's improved integrated Monitoring, Map Tracing and Datalogging features far exceed any other piggyback controller on the market. Even when not connected to the software, 8 channels of datalogging (at 20msec intervals) can be recorded and stored to be reviewed later. With the Support Tool connected, over 30 channels can be covered. Other new features include: Improved RPM recognition, Warning Settings, Password Protection for individual tuning Maps, NVCS (Nissan), VTEC (Honda), O2 Feed-back, Clean Fouled Plugs, and numerous others in future updates.
Quote:
It can be found Here

For the Emanage Ultimate, you will need this harness: Harness Kit

For both of the Emanages, using their Emanage Support Tool will allow you to tune the engine with a laptop.

Standalone

There are a number of standalones available for the 3G. However, none are specifically made for the V6 and only the AEM EMS is designed for the 4cyl auto. If you decide to go with one of these, you will need to do custom connections for the harnesses. It has been done before, so it's not impossible.


Suspension

Shocks/Struts

There are many different combinations you can go with on suspension. The most common is the KYB AGX/Eibach Prokit combo. This combo can be found at Here. This is probably the best price on the internet.

You could also look into KYB GR-2, Koni, or Tokico for shocks.

Springs/Coilovers

You can also look into Eibach Sportsline, Tein S-tech, Tein H-tech, or Ground Control Coilovers for springs/coilovers. STAY AWAY FROM EBAY COILOVERS. They will make you car ride like ****.

True Coilovers

Now, if you have the money to spend and want to go big time, go with the JIC Magic FLT-A2 or TEIN SS. With the TEIN's, you can get the EDFC which will allow you to electronically control the dampening force from inside the car.

Suspension Bars

To help out with handling, you can get a Rear strut tower brace and ST rear sway bar from RRE's Suspension page

Motor Mounts

For motor mounts, Deyeme makes all four(front, rear, and both sides) in flex or firm. These are direct replacements of the stock mounts. No pressing or cutting required.

Tricky part is, Deyeme doesn't advertise the mounts as for the Eclipse. They advertise them as for the 2001-2005 Stratus/Sebring Coupe, which is almost the same car as the Eclipse. Go to the following page and choose "2001-2005 Stratus/Sebring Coupe" from the drop-down menu on the left hand side.

http://www.deyemeracing.com/

Brakes

There are also several combinations of brakes that you can go with. The most common rotors used are the Powerslot slotted rotors. They can be obtained through this Group Buy. You can also look into Baer, Stoptech, and Brembos, but they are very expensive. Another warning....STAY AWAY FROM EBAY CROSS-DRILLED/SLOTTED ROTORS. They are crap and the WILL crack which will cause major health risks. This is one part that you do not want to go cheap on. As I saw someone say on another forum, "Do you want to trust your life on the cheapest part you could find?"

As for brake pads, I've heard good things about Hawk, Porterfield, and AXxis. The Hawk HPS pads dust alot but have excellent performance. I have them along with the Powerslot rotors, and I love them.

Transmission

LSD - Limited Slip Differential

There are two major LSDs made for the 3G: Quaife and Kaaz. Quaife is the most expensive but provides a lifetime warranty on the LSD, even if its damaged from racing. You could find them almost anywhere on the internet.

Clutches

There are a number of clutch manufacturers that make clutches for the 3G. Most notably are ACT and SPEC. You won't go wrong with whichever one you get. Two notes though. First, Exedy makes STOCK replacement clutches. So going with an Exedy stage 1, you are basically putting another stock clutch in. Second, if you plan on going with a Stage 3 clutch, you might as well go ahead and buy a LSD to go with it. There have been a number of guys that put a Stage 3 clutch in and destroyed their stock differential. If you destroy your stock differential, most likely, you will also damage your transmission because of the broken pieces of metal flying around.

High Stall Torque Converter(Autos Only)

Ian(Rezlo) makes awesome torque converter for the automatic tranny guys. He has had many, many happy customers. Search around his page for more information.

http://www.rezlo.com/Pages/Sell/HSTC/Jap.htm

Intake Manifold

Now if you have plans of going with a turbo or supercharger, one upgrade that would help out would be to upgrade from the stock intake manifold. For the GT V6, there are a couple of options. You can choose between the GTS intake manifold, the Diamante VRX intake manifold, or the RPW intake manifold.

You can probably find the GTS manifold and Diamante manifold at a junkyard or from a dealer. You can purchase the RPW manifold from RPW or Tearstone(sales@tearstone.com)

GT to GTS intake manifold swap

Diamante Intake Manifold Swap Explained Briefly

For the 4cyl guys, RPW also makes an intake manifold for the 4cyl. It can also be purchased from RPW or Tearstone(sales@tearstone.com).


Engine Building

There are tons of combinations that you can do when deciding to build your engine(if you decide to go that way). The ONLY manufacturer that has stepped up to the plate for many of the engine internals is RPW.

Here is a list of items they sell:

RPW Billeted Camshaft
Vernier Camshaft Gears
Valve Springs
Stock conrod modifications
8mm ARP conrod bolt kits
Shot Peened conrods
Forged steel conrods
Hypereutectic Pistons Stock CR 9.0:1
Hastings Piston Rings
Forged Pistons
RPW Ported & Polished Heads Stage 1
RPW Ported & Polished Heads Stage 2
RPW Heavy Duty head gasket
ARP Main Stud kit
ARP Head Stud kit

RPW can also make custom camshafts to your specs.

For more information on these, you can either email them at rpwinfo@iinet.net.au or email Russ(tearstone) at sales@tearstone.com . Russ is a US retailer of RPW.

V6 Engine parts
V6 Short Block Race Engine
4cyl Engine parts

Russ also sells pre-built 4cyl race blocks but he doesn't have them added to his site yet.

Now for the good stuff.

Forced Induction(Turbo/Supercharger)

It is possible to turbo or supercharge the 3G eclipse. There are kits for both. It is your own decision as to which one you want to go with. Both have their advantages and both have their disadvantages. Please read this page.. Difference Between Turbo and Supercharger


Turbo

First, please read this article How Turbo's Work. Also, PLEASE pick up a book called "Maximum Boost" by Corky Bell. It is available from Barnes and Noble. These two documents will give you a basic understanding of turboing a car. It will also give you an understanding of how a turbo works. I can't stress this enough...do your research before attempting putting a turbo on your car. You have heard many horror stories of engines blowing from turbos. The turbos DID NOT cause this. It was the operator not knowing what they were doing. You can easily destroy your engine if you don't understand what you are doing.

Don't be scared off by the previous paragraph. Turboing a car isn't rocket science. It can get complicated at times, but with research, it can be overcame.

4cyl Engine

The 4cyl engine is an excellent engine to turbo. If you find yourself feeling down because you could "only" get the 4cyl....hold that head up. I'm sure you have heard of the awesome, spectacular 4G63t engine that is in the 1G/2G GST/GSX. Well guess what, you pretty much have a stroked 4G63t. The two engines are very very similar. The 4cyl engine(commonly referred to as the 4G64) can handle up to about 17-18psi on the stock internals. This is excellent considering this engine was never meant to see boost.

There are 4 turbo kits made for the 4cyl. Tearstone sells two kits: the Basic Turbo Kit and the Pro Turbo Kit. You can also looking the Max-Rev turbo kit. I've heard its a nice kit that is bolt-on also. Then there is the DDP(Dougs Dyno Power) kit. This is a horribly designed kit that will require modifications to make it fit. I would never advise anybody to buy this kit. I am only listing it because it is a "kit"(if you want to call it that).

If that doesn't strike your fancy, you can also piece a kit together. You can use parts from the 1G/2G turbo eclipses to piece together a custom kit. This is what alot of 4cyl guys do and it is substantially cheaper.

V6 Engine

Well GT guys, I'm sorry but I can't say the same about the GT engine. It is a great engine, very similar to the VR4, twin turbo, 3000GT engine, but the pistons are crap. Pistons from Autozone are better than the crappy ones that Mitsu put into this engine. The engine can run safely at about 8psi on the stock engine. 10psi is pushing it, 12psi is walking a very thin line. The first thing that will go is the pistons. Now once the pistons are replaced, the rest of the engine is pretty strong.

But don't feel bad, because the GTS guys have it even worse. Since the GTS has 10:1 CR pistons, it cannot handle more than 5-6psi before the pistons go. IF YOU ARE WANTING TO TURBO A GTS, YOU NEED TO REPLACE THE PISTONS BEFORE YOU EVEN START.

Tearstone also sells a v6 kit.

DDP sells a V6 kit but its in the same boat as their 4cyl kit.

Oh, and forget about trying to piece together a custom kit. You will spend more money piecing it together than if you would have bought a kit.

Tearstone no longer offers a turbo kit for the 3G eclipse and it would have to be sourced either used or custom


Supercharger

RIPP Mods has a supercharger kit for both the 4cyl and V6 engines. Most of the information is on their site so there is no need in me repeating it here. However, there is one thing I would like to say. You will see HP numbers on their site regarding their SDS kits. These are CRANK HP NUMBERS NOT WHEEL HP NUMBERS. There is a big difference.

V6 - Stage 1
V6 - Stage 2
V6 - Tuners Package
4cyl - Stage 1
4cyl - Stage 2
4cyl - Tuners Package

All RIPP's SDS kits require an aftermarket headers.



SWAP




Well, Since the beggining of it's existence, the 3g eclipse has... well ...

for lack of better words SUCKED. There is hope though, beyond supercharging and turbocharging. the MOST worthwhile upgrade to one's vehicle is an engine swap...

YES i said MOST worthwhile that means moreso than purchasing a CAI (though it is close).

AND YES i said SWAP. One has been done with ease already and more have come within the last week. IT is actually going to let me keep my car as a street warrior as opposed to driving that 4 door around fast and everyday.

What is this swap you may ask?

Mitsubishi Diamante. 6g74 w/ 3.5 liters of displacement and the ability to get a 4.1 liter STROKER out of it.

The long block drops right in onto the engine mounts and with little modification to the starter plate and axle hanger you yourself can accomplish this swap.

The SAME wiring harness in the eclipse, the ECU for the eclipse will work without modification and is better b/c of the more aggressive tune.

and the BEST part?

EVERY modification done to an eclipse will fit on the 6g74 since the 1" height difference is NOTHING. CAI, Supercharger, Headers, Turbo kits, exhausts. EVERYTHING fits. Even the transmission is the same to bolt up and requires no modification.

details found here.

http://www.club3g.com/forum/showthre...t=70489&page=5

oh and if you need to flash your ECU witha dsmlink style tuner it is also available and info in this page.

http://www.club3g.com/forum/showthread.php?t=56138

So yes, ladies and gentlemen, THERE IS HOPE!


This is my spill for all the n00bs to look at. If I forgot something, my bad. I seem to do that alot.


If you plan on doing these mods yourself, I suggest taking a look at the online service manual. You can download each section to your computer for later use. Special thanks to Enrique Mora, Jr. of Fast-4Ward Motorsports for hosting the service manual.

3G Service Manual

If you are looking for more websites....here is another List

RPW's Eclipse Webpage

All RPW parts are available through Tearstone or you can email Russ at sales@tearstone.com.

DISCLAIMER:

I am not responsible for you modding your car, parts breaking on your car, or any use of this information that results in something bad happening to you. This writeup is for information purposes only and I will not be held responsible for your own mistakes. Have fun modding your 3G eclipse.

Me again...
Warranty?
** Modifying your car does not result in the voiding of your warranty, if the part causes the problem or is a problem the warranty will not cover it and any affected parts, emissions systems should not be touched if you want to keep your warranty and applying headers to one's car will most likely cause a voiding of the warranty because you are removing catalytic converters from your automobiles exhaust system**

Dos and Don'ts

Don't
-drop your clutch, dropping as in, rev the engine up above 3k rpm and let your foot off immediately, causing wheelspin and wheelhop, dropping the clutch WILL result in a warped flywheel and is not fun to drive on whatsoever
-try working on your car without any knowledge of the systems inside and accepting the risks of such
-change your own oil, that is if you want to keep your warranty, changing your own oil will result in the forfeiting of your warranty and you won't get a thing if your engine does blow up
-drive in an improper position, back straight, head up within your comfort range, and this is a car not a recliner
Do
- use synthetic oil, you can if you want, it doesn't hurt, it may not actually help there are many theories but switching from conventional to synthetic shouldn't cause any problems even on a new engine
-retain all paperwork of things repaired on your car, if something goes bad, you've got proof they screwed it up and not you
-be a hypochondriac if you still have your warranty, take it in if it feels funny or if you think something may be wrong, if your under a full warranty, having it replaced then or at least documentation that you felt something was wrong during the warranty period, you can still have it replaced for free after the warranty has been finished



Model Breakdown
RS
I'll start with the most base model size. I'm sure most of you guys are aware that the RS is lacking in features almost as much as the standard civic. It comes with mitsubishi's 4g64 SOHC 16valve motor at 2.4liters of displacent. Fear not RS owner because there is hope. The 4g64 is the bigger sister of the almighty 4g63T found in 1g and 2g eclipse turbo cars. This means that many of those parts will fit to it and it also makes this motor easy to turbocharge, and it holds up well to boost, see above in Eclipsed4Utoo's explanation of turbochargers for more information on that. Unfortunately the RS does not come w/ a Rear sway bar (one would need to be custom mounted) and does not come w/ a sunroof either, which are the 2 largest differences in relation to performance and driving comfort (well at least i really like my sunroof). Rs also comes w/ the smallest sized wheels at 15". A couple people (literally i think 2) have run 16.1's entirely stock w/ this car, so there is some hope. There is no Sportronic transmission, it only comes w/ the 5 speed or 4 speed automatic. Your antenna should be on the outside of the car as well. no alloy fuel door for you guys. You've got front 2 disc brakes and rear are drums.
GS
The GS has more of the features the higher models have, power windows, power locks, all options pretty much available. They also get shinier 16" wheels, but the same motor as the RS. With all those options the GS actually weighs more than RS's, so being outrun by one on the track shouldn't come as any surprise. The GS comes with a rear sway bar which helps in handling that the RS does not. And there is also an option of a sportronic transmission as opposed to the RS's old-school 4 speed automatic. You have the advantage to an in windshield radio antenna. you also had the option of an alloy fuel door. You've got front 2 disc brakes and rear are drums.
GT( not GT spyders 2003 and newer)
A good portion of you owners have this car. GT, 3.0l SOHC 6g72 motor, sister engine to the 3000GT's VR-4's. This does alright w/ turbo or boost in general and its been reported wonderful w/ nitrous w/ the proper equipment. Refer to Eclipsed4utoo's boosting options for more info. What sets these guys apart are a front strut tower bar the other models do not have, as well as the rear sway bar. We have 17" rims in different variations and sideskirts below our doors (the largest difference b/t us and the 4cyl guys). all in all not a bad car, but it does not measure up to the amount of boost the 4cyl. guys are able to push. Our brakes are much better w/ 4 disc's all the way around at a decent size. All calipers are single piston except for those on the fed specs which are dual.
GTS (and GT spyder guys not previously included)
ok so you guys basically have the GT model w/ ALL available options except for the sportronic transmission. Alloy fuel door, 17" polished wheels, and a variable intake runner that allows for just a little more air to come in the engine when you push it, the intake manifold is slightly different as well allowing more even air-flow so none of your cylinders run lean. leather seats, 6disc cd changer, in windshield antenna for your radio. life's good isn't it? well boost will suck for you (refer again to eclipsed4utoo's boost info) you're one step behind the GT guys in taht your pistons have to be the first things out of your car. You guys have the same brakes as the GT guys


Lingo:
"bhp" or "hp" "base horsepower" or "horsepower"- power made at the crank or flywheel
"whp" or "wheel horsepower"- aka power to the ground, it is how much of the energy your engine makes ends up being useful. Dyno's measure whp
"Dyno"- an instrument used for measuring the power and effectiveness of a car's performance in acceleration
"ECU" - engine control unit, holds the maps of fuel that the engine uses, also controls the A/C, fans, heater, lights, and almost anything else that is connected with electricity



Oh and BTW we're not responsible for you modding your car, parts breaking on your car, or any use of this information that results in something bad happening to you. This writeup is for information purposes only and we cannot be held responsible for your own mistakes

and i'm still taking suggestions
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Last edited by Sleepr awd; 02-17-2007 at 10:55 PM.
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Old 11-07-2005, 12:54 AM   #2
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Re: The Comprehensive Guide to Modifying Your 3g

Stickied.
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Old 12-09-2005, 01:38 AM   #3
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Hey guys nice thread! I hope all the new people will stop and read it.
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Old 01-03-2006, 04:11 PM   #4
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Re: The Comprehensive Guide to Modifying Your 3g

Best thread man...Well written. Take care bud
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Old 08-18-2006, 04:37 AM   #5
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Re: The Comprehensive Guide to Modifying Your 3g

Thanks for taking the time and posting that.
page saved....
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Old 09-03-2006, 12:42 AM   #6
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Re: The Comprehensive Guide to Modifying Your 3g

Well, Since the beggining of it's existence, the 3g eclipse has... well ...

for lack of better words SUCKED. There is hope though, beyond supercharging and turbocharging. the MOST worthwhile upgrade to one's vehicle is an engine swap...

YES i said MOST worthwhile that means moreso than purchasing a CAI (though it is close).

AND YES i said SWAP. One has been done with ease already and more have come within the last week. IT is actually going to let me keep my car as a street warrior as opposed to driving that 4 door around fast and everyday.

What is this swap you may ask?

Mitsubishi Diamante. 6g74 w/ 3.5 liters of displacement and the ability to get a 4.1 liter STROKER out of it.

The long block drops right in onto the engine mounts and with little modification to the starter plate and axle hanger you yourself can accomplish this swap.

The SAME wiring harness in the eclipse, the ECU for the eclipse will work without modification and is better b/c of the more aggressive tune.

and the BEST part?

EVERY modification done to an eclipse will fit on the 6g74 since the 1" height difference is NOTHING. CAI, Supercharger, Headers, Turbo kits, exhausts. EVERYTHING fits. Even the transmission is the same to bolt up and requires no modification.

details found here.

http://www.club3g.com/forum/showthre...t=70489&page=5

oh and if you need to flash your ECU witha dsmlink style tuner it is also available and info in this page.

http://www.club3g.com/forum/showthread.php?t=56138

So yes, ladies and gentlemen, THERE IS HOPE!
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