ASD + Fuel Relays chatter in run position zero rpm

[gromittoo]

Originally Posted by brcidd

If it were mine, I'd go under the dash and check the dark blue wire out of ignition switch for hot in run, and the yellow for hot in start.....

I tried my tests this morning. There is 11.9 volts on pin 86 of the starter relay when I put the key to start. This voltage goes to 0.0 in other positions. This happens reliably.

Next I tried putting my voltmeter across where the coil of the starter relay plugs in (+ to 86; - to 85). I get 10+ volts when I turned the key to start. This happens reliably.

I am still concerned about the "Automatic ShutDown" relay, and its random clicking. (between 1 second and 2 minutes). It clicks even without the key in the ignition. It should not do that. It ran my battery down a little overnight, so I put the charger back on the battery.

If I keep turning the key from run to start repeatedly, once in every 30 or so tries, I hear the solenoid kick in, and the starter turn for a fraction of a second. My theory is that I happen to hit the ASD relay in the correct position, the starter relay works. But it only lasts a second. If I understood what the ASD relay does, I would consider bypassing it. Removing the ASD relay did not help in any way.

Maybe it is time to get it towed to the dealer.

[gromittoo]

As for the blue wire: When I turn the key to the "run" position, all of the expected things happen on the dashboard (first all lights come on, then the airbag and seatbelt stay lit), and the doors lock. This would indicate the power from the "run" position is getting through.

Something that has me really worried. I have tried to use the Off - Run - Off - Run -Off - Run method of getting any P-codes stored in the computer. I don't see any P-codes or the normal "done" that would be displayed on the odometer if there were no P-Codes stored. I am beginning to think I need a new PCM. My OdbII reader doesn't indicate any problems, but I think it takes a real Chrysler DRB tool to evaluate the PCM.

To verify that, I would have to have the van towed to a dealer, then decide if I want to buy their overpriced PCM, or have the van towed home again. A new PCM is like $625+, and one on eBay is like $165.

[gromittoo]

I did a search on "pcm double start override output failure", and I think it describes my situation:

1) bypassing starter relay gets it to crank, but not start
2) issues with the ASD relay
3) doing the "key dance" does not display any P-Codes or even the word "Done" on the odometer display.
4) double start override output is the connection from the PCM, that grounds the starter relay.

Strangely, my $25 ODB reader + Torque App on my phone connects to the PCM, but does not read any codes (scans, then says no codes found). This is in spite of the Check Engine Light coming on ~ 1 minute after turning to "Run". I would expect to see a P1684, since I did disconnect the battery.

[gromittoo]

I purchased a used computer on eBay Friday Afternoon. The outfit was able to program my VIN and the correct Mileage. It arrived this morning (Monday).

THE NEW COMPUTER FIXED ALL THE PROBLEMS!!!