codes P0171, P0174 Lincoln LS V6"

[shorod]

How old is your battery? The electrical systems in these cars are pretty picky. Even if the battery load tests fine and starts the car fine, if it's around 5 years old I'd suggest you replace it and see if that fixes your issue.

-Rod

[koolier]

hmmmm its worth a try ill try it with another car battery

[koolier]

rod, took ur advice and bought a new diehard gold battery, and problem is gone... u really know ur ls's, i thought a failing battery would mean the car would not start sometimes which never happen since i bought the battery 3 yrs ago, im never again buying a cheap autocraft battery. thanks for ur help

[shorod]

Thanks for the feedback. Hopefully that will be a long-term fix for you.

Thank the forum, I learned about the battery trick from others on this forum.

-Rod

[koolier]

ok car work with no problems for 24 hrs, next day started doing same thing again, cutting off at stop light or when idle for more than 3 min, 2 days later, starting it and extremely rough idling, unplug coils one by one on right side and seems that entire right side, 3 coils, are not igniting, used a spark tester which shows that they are sparking, remover air intake again to check to c if fuel nozzle is clogged, not clogged, dont know wat else to do, fuel is good, sparking, could it be egr, please help!!!

[koolier]

looks like coils on right side are bad, replacing all coils from ebay, lets c if that works

[koolier]

just wanted to update, it was the coils, replaces all the coils for 20$ each from ebay, and now engine runs perfect, feels like when i bought it brand new, also i replaced the valve cover seal with an aftermarket seal because the coils go when oil leaks into the spark plug wells. so it seems i had 2 problems at the same time, the pcv valve and misfiring due to bad coils. i wish the damn ecu would have picked that up and give me a check engine trouble code or something. its seems the ecu detected the misfire on the right side coils and then cutoff the fuel to the right 3 cylinders, but gave no check engine light,

hope this helps someone!

[00V6LS]

My 00 80,000 mile, V6 LS is exhibiting the symptoms and EC's 171/174. I'm preparing to complete the replacement of the elbow which is likely to be the cause; and I'm looking for some related input/advice.

#1. Has anyone paid for this repair to be completed; and what did it cost?

#2. When performing this repair; what other 'maintenance' actions should be performed while the engine is exposed?

#3. Beside having a new part for the elbow, and intake gaskets; what other parts am I likely to need to have on hand at the time of the repair.

#4. One step in the process is to drain the coolant; what is the best way to do this? Is there a drain tap on the bottom of the radiator? If the objective of this step is to remove the coolant from the top half of the engine; do I need to ensure that the thermostat is open so the engine will drain too?


Thanks everyone.

[shorod]

I don't know what you could expect to pay for the dealer to change the PCV elbow. I'm guessing probably somewhere around $300 based on the 2 hours or less labor and the $25 part marked up by 40% or so. The intake manifold gaskets are reusable if I remember correctly.

Other items you should consider while in there would be spark plugs and, if the plugs/coils show evidence of oil leaks, valve cover gasket sets and coils. The bank 1 spark plugs are very easy to get to once you get the upper intake manifold off.

-Rod

[sjcaplan]

Same problem on my car (LS 2001) with P0171 and P0174 - replaced the plenum gasket as that was leaking but still no help with the codes and Check Engine LIght. Rod - could you please get me info on this hose/elbow you are talking about so I can forward onto my mechanic.


Thanks

[00V6LS]

I completed this repair with some DIY lessons learned that may be worth passing on. This really was not a hard or difficult repair to complete. You get to know your car much better. Also; I would not have been adventurous enough to embark on this repair if I did not have the backing of this Forum and the contributions from Rod; thanks Rod, I felt like you were right there with me at times

Be sure to use a pre-lube to help with any corrosion on bolts. This was especially the case for the 7 bolts on the crossbar at the cowl. Take every precaution to prevent ANY bolts from breaking as you remove them. Resolving broken bolts is not a pleasant use of time.

Use caution when working around plastic parts; these are easily susceptable to breaking and can be avoided with proper care. If they break, you may be able to repair/mend them using a super glue for plastic.

VERY, VERY IMPORTANT - BE SURE TO PREVENT ANYTHING FROM ENTERING THE OPEN EXPOSED INTAKE PORTS!

It is not necessary to completely remove/disconnect the fuel line or the electrical connection for the injectors. If you're careful, once you remove the support bracket bolt for the fuel line, you can remove and place the lower intake aside with the fuel line and injector wiring still connected. This will save you time and still provide adequate room and access to reach the elbow to make the repair.

Lightly lubricate the inside of each end of the new elbow to make pushing it onto the mating tube and EGR Valve connection much easier.

When reassembling; make as many of the connections to the rear of the intake manifolds as possible before you place them in their installed position.

Reconnect the two vaccuum hoses to the EGR component that bolts on at the rear of the upper intake manifold, before placing the manifold in position. Once the manifold is in place, it is then easier to bolt the EGR component on and not have to try and work in cramped quarters and tight places to reconnect these hoses.

Take this opportunity to inspect everything and complete normal routine maintenance of parts while they are within easy access.

[sjcaplan]

Thanks for the reply - base dont he info from Rod, I took this back to my mechanic who did find the elbow hose was cracked and the source of the vaccum leak and check engine light. Getting this info off the forum probably saved me several hundred dollars in diagnsotic time and fixes from the dealer.

Thanks all !

[00V6LS]

After I completed this repair (replaced the elbow connector) the car runs great and no engine light

After a couple days of driving I noticed a slight smell of engine coolant, so I found the problem to be needing to replace a hose clamp. After I fixed this, I used a garden hose and spray nozzle to gently rinse the residual coolant from the engine.

Now, the engine will not start. The engine turns over and there is gas being sent to the cylinders, but there is no attemp to start at all. I don't thinik there is any spark at any of the plugs at all.

What would likely have happened?

Anyone have a thought on this?

[00V6LS]

After the vehicle sat unused for a day, the engine started easily. I didn't notice anything unusual, however, I didn't test drive it either.

The next time I used the vehicle was to drive to work on a Monday morning, about 20 minute drive. On the express way, I noticed the engine beginning to run rough, however, I was able to travel at 80 MPH and the car seemed to be driving ok, not perfect, but ok.

When I exited the E-way, I noticed a rough performance, but the car was still running okay.

I had to stop at a convenience store, and when I started the car the engine cranked for a while before it started and then the car wanted to keep stalling out.

I managed to keep the car running by using neutral when stopped and then placing the car into Drive to go, however, the engine performance was deteriorating fast.

I decided to turn around and head for home. While driving home the engine light came on. I stopped at an Auto Advance store to have the code read and the code indicated the front o2 sensor. I had the codes cleared, bought two O2 sensors and made it home. Replaced the sensors and the engine is running better, but still has a seeming firing issue. It just feels like the engine is not firing right.

When I took it for a test drive, it feels like the engine is not firing right and does not want to reach high speeds. There is no engine light at all.

It just seems like what ever has happened seemed to be associated to rinsing off the engine. Maybe not, but the timing is uncanny. Before that, right after I finished the elbow replacement, the engine was running great, smooth, and powerful.

Any insight is really appreciated.

I'm going to pull he car in the garage and remove the upper intake and go from there.

Is there a way to validate the health of the coils?

Any ideas?

Thanks everyone.

[shorod]

You may have gotten water into the spark plug wells. There have been reports of others having misfire issues after rain storms. The rain runs off the windshield cowl and into the plug wells. You might pull the coils and spray out any water that you find.

-Rod