fuel pump wiring issues '94

[justinacolmena]

A few months ago, my pickup broke down, and apparently the fuel pump needed to be replaced. It cost a lot of money because the vehicle broke down in Fairbanks North Star Borough, but despite the exorbitant cost of towing and repair I was extremely lucky to be able to drive the vehicle out of that district without being cited and having the vehicle impounded and auctioned off, which is the normal course of action in such a district, because most people don't ever want to be seen in the same vehicle after any kind of breakdown or incident with first responders or law enforcement — any "brush with the law" or contact with first responders for any reason on the road jacks up your insurance rates, and goes on your record like a criminal offense or traffic violation, and accumulates "points" by which the cops can eventually have your driver's license revoked.

Recently I ran out of gas and it died. I put about 3 gallons of gas in the tank, and tried to start it. I am not sure what the problem is. The fuel pump measures about 7.5 ohms resistance, and it does pump fuel when I apply power to the power lead on the relay block directly from the battery, so I assume it is still good since it was recently replaced.

I pulled out the fuel pump relay, and discovered a +12V potential on both sides of the relay coil, despite a lack of pressure in the fuel system. The relay is not turning on, because the normal return circuit for power to the relay coil is not grounded, but actively forced to +12V potential apparently by some other relay somewhere which has failed to switch.

There are still various wiring "issues" due to severe and persistent corrosion that has unfortunately occurred under normal everyday conditions of use, which may have unfortunately burnt out the previous fuel pump.

[justinacolmena]

With the fuel pump hotwired and delivering fuel to the engine, the engine cranks, but it still does not start because either there is no ignition or the injectors are not functioning to allow fuel into the cylinders.

Call me paranoid, but "undercover" cops, especially certain female political operatives and their pro-feminist boyfriends, have definitely been involved in repeatedly vandalizing my vehicle, tampering with it, and disabling it to prevent it from starting

Car-trashers, home-wreckers, and life-ruiners, straight out of that police union hall.

This after I spent $360 to replace the windshield, and another window shot out by a police officer, on top of the previous $170 tow bill + $500 repair of the fuel pump. Those cops ate up my entire $1200 stimulus payment with their vandalism, after they robbed me of my other vehicle + the title to it after I was forced to crash into a huge boulder laid artful on the road by a gang of thieves and hostile 911 operators. The cops have also deprived me of my Alaska Permanent Fund Dividend check indefinitely without cause, and they are hard at work on the job stealing and confiscating all my money and property for their personal aggrandizement and labor-union enrichment.

There are certain "females" (generally in possession of too much jewelry and other items of value that do not belong to them) who really, really need to be in prison rather than working for law enforcement, and I really can't say I'm impressed with the men they work with either. There's a left-wing political organization called "ProPublica" involved in the crimes they commit under color of law.

[justinacolmena]

https://www.fixya.com/cars/t26651658...l_pump_pigtail

Saw this. Not sure how relevant.

The general problem might be a low battery, if the ignition and fuel pump systems are failing to come on, but that may necessitate thousands of dollars of additional repairs after charging or replacing the battery.