2005 Chrysler Sebring - Electrical/Engine problems

[jman2888]

Hello,

For about a year my car has been having issues. First the power windows started to act wonky, at times I'd put them down and they wouldn't go back up for hours and then finally the switch would work and they'd go up. Then back in maybe August '13, my front passenger side window was all the way down and would not go back up. Also, the rear driver side window stopped working all together. Furthermore, because of the window issues, the window switches on each door weren't working. Eventually, the driver side window switches were all messed up, the switch for the right front passenger would control the rear driver side window only when going down, but then the actual switch for that window would only work going up. I made a video after I noticed it was happening.

When the problems with the front passenger window started, eventually I came to the point that I had thought it was the regulator. So after purchasing a used regulator(about $80) from a local shop and replacing the regulator in the window with the help of my brother we got it all in as it should. Unfortunately, that did not help because still the window would not go up. We popped the switch off for that door and found the right two terminals for power to the regulator and attached a battery to them and managed to get the window to go back up, but only halfway. After that I started to have to park my car with a bag over the gap so rain wouldn't get in.

Next I thought it was the circuit breaker so I went to a Chrysler dealer and special ordered a ~$10 CB and replaced it - but that was not the problem. I checked some of the fuses and there was nothing wrong with them. I tried replacing the window switch with a new one($25) but that too was not the culprit.

My car was later brought to my mechanic and he couldn't get the window to go back up and winter was about to start (its cold here in NY). My dad managed to get the window up all the way and then put would blocks underneath inside the door to keep it up.

Other problems since then I've noticed:

• A couple months ago, my keyless entry remote power lock button only worked for all doors except driver. (This became a problem because I thought I locked all doors but someone went through my car and stole some things out of it recently, and I left the driver door unlocked not remembering it didn't lock that door anymore.) The button for the trunk still worked.

• The power lock switch located on the driver door has completely stopped working.

• A couple months ago, my keyless entry remote power lock button only worked for all doors except driver. (This became a problem because I thought I locked all doors but someone went through my car and stole some things out of it recently, and I left the driver door unlocked not remembering it didn't lock that door anymore.) The button for the trunk still worked.

• The power lock switch located on the driver door has completely stopped working.

More recently, within the last two weeks:

• The keyless entry remote does not work any more for power locks or for opening the trunk. I have not tried testing the Panic button but doubt it works.

• The inside dome light does not work at all, even with turning it on manually or opening a door.

• The power mirrors do not work.

• The radio stopped working. (I am a music fanatic, and its hard to drive to work without music; I have to use my phone for that now.)

• Also, I was out driving about a week ago and had no problems at all until I got home and parked my car. When turning off the ignition I noticed it said "no BuS" on the odometer. It has never done that before; I have not seen this happen again since then. After seeing it, I tried starting my car again and it did start, but did not say "no BuS".

Additionally, since about 6/2012(bought it from someone else back in ~4/2012), I noticed that the engine was having power issues when running the AC. I'd go to hit the gas and it would hesitate to speed up from a stop light. This continued for about a year until last year when I noticed it wasn't only when the AC was on, but all the time. When my car is idling it rumbles terribly, sometimes it will stop, other times it continues. And more recently, when I am driving at about 45 mph, the engine begins to lose power and it feels like maybe an engine misfire. I tried some injector cleaner but haven't noticed any changes.

I replaced the spark plugs back in ~September '13, perhaps I need to do it again?

I have done some research on this but there is no real conclusive answer to fix it. Some people say it's the instrument cluster, others say it's an O2 sensor, others say its a crankshaft sensor.

What I am left with is thinking about taking it to get the entire car re-wired/check for a short in the wiring?

Before I take it to someone that specializes in electrical I would like to see what the community has for me.

[jdl]

Any electrical issue, check the wiring diagrams, then voltage and ground. With multiple issues, pick one system, then track it down. If you want to start with power windows, that's fine. All you need to check voltage and ground is a simple automotive test lite from the auto store, doesn't cost much.



Also, check for any applicable trouble codes. Some of the national brand auto stores will check codes for free.


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[jdl]

In the diagram, the tan wire carries voltage to the master switch, goes hot with the key on, check for voltage on that wire. If no voltage, check for voltage at the circuit breaker, key on. If no voltage, have to check ignition switch and wiring.

The wiring harness should be on the hinge side of driver door, may have protective rubber boot covering, pull the covering back far enough to access proper wire color.

You can tug a little on those wires to see if any wires might be broken. Because you open and close that driver door so much, it works that wiring harness back and forth, so check for broken wires.

The black wire is ground, To check ground, prove black wire with test lite connected the battery voltage, penetrate the insulation, make sure your touching the actual wire in the insulation. If the lite comes on, the ground hopefully is ok. Any hole you make in wire, when your done, cover the hole with finger nail polish or something. No need to turn on key to check ground.

Take a look at ignition switch connector, anything look burned or melted?

[petersonj13]

please some one help i have chrysler sebring 2005 4door, it was ruuning well until recently now engine light pops up and car jerks a lil, seems like gears have hard time switching but drives well after 30 but if i pass 60 it jerks alot. so now if i turn off the car and turn it back on it runs perfectly fine. but somtimes when turning the car off and turning it back on the car will not start nd i would have to wait for 10 to 15min to start it again for it to run. and its back to normal and this comes once in a blue. some say its the cam senors or lack of tune up, does anyone have the same problem??? and got it fix???