1998 Plymouth Voyager Engine 3.3L

[cnuoc1]

My new (to me) 98 Grand voyager engine 3.3L vin R engine just up and died on me -110,000 miles. Took it to 2 mechanics and same answer "you need a new engine". Going rate around here seems to be 5200 for a remanufactured and 3500 for a low-mileage used. 3500 seems way to high for a used engine even if it is installed.

I found a good mechanic who will do the install for a reasonable rate if I provide the part. I know I can get a used engine for around 500-800. There are a bunch of used 97 and 99s in my area but no 98s. The salvage yard told me the 99 (also a 3.3L vin R) wouldn't be interchangeable - that doesn't sound right... does it?

If I decide not to fix it - what do you think it's worth as a parts car? Vehicle is in pretty good shape (a few minor dings), lot's of new parts on it but needs new tires.

Last, I was told these vehicles are notorious for tranny problems. Is that all voyager/caravans from this era, or just certain ones?

[Mrbizness1]

Originally Posted by cnuoc1

My new (to me) 98 Grand voyager engine 3.3L vin R engine just up and died on me -110,000 miles. Took it to 2 mechanics and same answer "you need a new engine". Going rate around here seems to be 5200 for a remanufactured and 3500 for a low-mileage used. 3500 seems way to high for a used engine even if it is installed.

I found a good mechanic who will do the install for a reasonable rate if I provide the part. I know I can get a used engine for around 500-800. There are a bunch of used 97 and 99s in my area but no 98s. The salvage yard told me the 99 (also a 3.3L vin R) wouldn't be interchangeable - that doesn't sound right... does it?

If I decide not to fix it - what do you think it's worth as a parts car? Vehicle is in pretty good shape (a few minor dings), lot's of new parts on it but needs new tires.
Last, I was told these vehicles are notorious for tranny problems. Is that all voyager/caravans from this era, or just certain ones?

You need to find out what exactly is wrong with the motor, do you need a short block or a complete motor. The 3.3 motor should be good for 200k+ miles with proper maintenance.

[tempfixit]

I agree with Mrbizness1. Find out from the mechanics that told you that a new engine is needed. WHY does it need a new engine, what is wrong with the engine!!!!!

Are you sure it is not a fuel related problem?

Can you describe if there where any strange noises when engine quit. Give us a detailed description of the complete process when engine died. Could just be a faulty camshaft or crankshaft sensor.

Another thing you can do is do the key dance for codes, ignition switch off-on, off-on, off-on and count the check engine light for flashes (1 flash pause 2 flashes means code 12) or watch for codes in the odometer. Example P0500) Post any codes.

Trannys can be a problem if not maintaned proberly.

[wafrederick]

The transmissions do have this problem: the spider gear pin spitting out and ruins the case.There is one fix to prevent this and most transmission shops do this,weld the ends of the spider gear pin.It includes the 3 speeds.The interchange on the 4 speeds is 1996 to 2001 and the differance is is the crank sensor.A 3.3 out of a 1994 to 1997 Dodge Intrepid,Chrysler Concorde and Eagle Vision will fit,the book says no and I have done it this way.The exhaust manifolds,crank pulley and I believe one of the valve covers will have to be changed

[cnuoc1]

Thanks for the replies!

The noise started out as just a small tick that I would could only hear at high revs. I mentioned this to my mechanic, who listened to it and decided it was lifter noise and that I should probably dump the vehicle on some poor sap before it died. I didn't do this and the ticking noise quickly morphed into the loud knocking that I am hearing now.

The engine hasn't exactly died yet - it just makes loud knocking noises when running. In fact, it doesn't seem like the engine has lost any power, which I thought was wierd - although I haven't been very heavy footed since it started making the noise. It does feel like it's going to die when idling. (i haven't been driving it - only to the shop twice)

The first mechanic just listened to it and immediately said it sounded bad and would need a new engine. I wasn't too happy with the diagnosis and lack of investigation so I took it to the second mechanic and he basically did and said the same thing. He listened to it for a long time 10-15 minutes or so and concluded that it was a rocker arm breaking apart (I have know idea how he could tell this without taking the engine apart). I don't know what exact code was read out, but he told me it was a cylinder misfire on #1.

I don't really know the history of this vehicle. I got it from a couple moving to Hawaii who were looking to dump their vehicle cheap - it had about 80,000 mi.

Thanks!

[exalteduser]

believe it or not, engines can be repaired too, no sense in spending a ton on a used engine that could be just as bad or close.

[cnuoc1]

Yeah, ideally I would like to just get it repaired. After having two separate mechanics tell me it needs to be replaced I'm a little daunted. Are you saying you think this might be a repairable situation? - maybe I need to get a 3rd mechanic to take a look.

[tempfixit]

Ask your friends and co-workers for a reputable mechanic and have them check it out. I would get another opinion.

Could possible be a broken bracket on the head closest to the firewall. The bracket (by bracket I mean the part of the head that the rocker arm shaft is bolted too) If that broke the rocker arm shaft could be compromised and cause a ticking from the rocker arms which could be cause of the misfire on #1 clyinder. If this is the case there is a fix that can be done without removing or replacing the head. If need be I can find a thread on another forum on fix.

ANother thing is check the fexplate (flywhee)l for cracks which could also cause a knock.


hope this helps

[wafrederick]

The 3.3 is a throw away engine.It could of broken the rocker arm pedistal in the head off bending the rocker arm shaft too and the fix is to replace the cylinder head instead of welding it back in with a comeback later on