Tranny issue: Not shifting after oil change

[sprintuser]

Hello, I recently purchased a 1996 Maxima with 126000 miles.

I changed the tranny oil and filter, the horror starts as follows:

1. The car did not want to shift into gear.
2. I revved to 2500RPM and it did.
3. I ran the car for approximately a mile, same issue, only shifting to forward and reverse on higher RPMs.
4. I drained the new oil, it smelled burnt (the original oil did not).
5. I replaced the oil with new one, and same issue, the car does not want to shift gears.

I used supertech oil (for use in cars previously serviced by Dexron III). At the original (first oil change) there were very fine black substance coated on the magnets, cleaned them, no traces of metal shavings (did not look hard enough).
On the second oil change (burnt smell, after a mile of running) I noticed small metal shavings on the oil pan while cleaning. The quatity was less than the amount of sulphur you may get when stripping the stirking end of a matchstick.

I am worried and at a loss for ideas .

Please advise what I may have done wrong (fluid level was checked per instructions in owner's manual).

Thanks in advance!

[rather_b_boatin]

Oh boy, it sounds to me like quite simply there was not enough tranny oil. NEVER force a shift or rev up to shift. (this goes for any piece of equipment) If it were my car, I would flush 2 qts through, replace the tranny filter, add fresh fluid, and PRAY! If it still does the same thing your looking at about a grand for new tranny.

[rather_b_boatin]

Also-When you re-fill: fill it till dipstick full, start engine, shift through all gears, re-check dipstick, re-fill as necessary, shift through again, re-check. Level will be lower after oil runs up through, be sure to compensate.

[BeZerK2112]

Good luck with all that. Many tranys have a way to perge excess fluid. Dont be afraid that your putting too much in. You can always call the nissan dealership and ask them how much oil is needed for replacement.

[sprintuser]

Thanks for the advice guys.

I did fill it up but to no avail. I put three more quarts in and ran the car another 1.5 miles. The car was shifting at 1500 RPM when cold, but that went up to 2500RPM + for shifting when warmed up. And after the run, the new oil smelled burnt.

I am looking at a tranny replacement at this time. I believe it ran without a sufficient oil level and may have thus damaged the internal parts .

I have found a used tranny (1996 GXE with 120000 miles). I am looking at roughly $500 to get the new one installed.

Any advice/suggestions for tranny replacement would be be a great help.

[BeZerK2112]

You can always attempt it yourself. Grab a shop book and have at it. That what i did. Worked out great. However if I was you I would look to see if I could do a engine and tranny swap at the same time. put the 3.5 in it and have some fun! Thats just me though. There are fourms all over the place about doing that.

[sprintuser]

That would be a great project Bezerk. But I am trying to get this running in the shortest amount of cash outflow as possible.

I am still struggling with the notion that I MAY have killed my tranny.


It does not 'jerk' or hard shift into a gear at the higher revs. Also, car was only a very short distance with limited oil quantity. I have heard that if the tranny is going, the shifts become VERY hard, in my case, you cannot feel the car moving into gear at the high revs.

Thoughts?

[Nahkapohjola]

I was 'there', scary. My issue was foaming after full oil change (Note: service manual instruction is only half =½ change, and meant to keep Nissan in trannyswap business...). Read what was done http://www.cardomain.com/ride/748507/24

Try definitely this defoam before tranny swap: The foam comes out after idling ½-2hours (keep on, change thru each gear), car tilted in steep angle. Do change car positions(tilt angle) multiple times. In my case, almost all foam went out after that 2hr exercise, AND tranny started to work flawlessly. The tranny is an 'oil-channel-spaghetti-maze' with zillion 'airpockets', may be really next to impossible to get all the bubbles moving/out from each pocket.... Some bubble related slips occurred during next 2weeks, but now its been ok for 2yrs... Btw. I have cheapest dino oil, works ok.

[sprintuser]

Thanks for the reply Nakh. From the pictures and description, it seems that I have a different tranny (1996 GXE).

How can I tell if I need a locking or non-locking tranny? Is there something in the VIN that would allude to this?

Thanks.

[Nahkapohjola]

Yes yours has bigger oil capacity etc. I figure it can take more load (?). My guess is that the fluid 'brains' (oil pathways) are equally complicated and thus likewise suspect to this kind of oil swap / foam problem, traveling tiny bubbles are collected into a 'convenient' spot and form a vapor lock. Dont know, but its a cheap try u can make. Cant figure out how oil change could 'brake' the tranny.

Also make sure TCU and thus tranny solenoids gets adequate charge voltage (refer to page 14).

VLSD: front jacked up, rotating one tire by hand causes the other tire on opposite side to rotate to SAME direction.

[sprintuser]

Nahk, does 'VLSD' imply locking tranny? I shter some other way of telling (than turning the tires?).

Thanks.

[Nahkapohjola]

If "locking tranny" means that both wheels burn rubber then its same as VLSD (I guess Variable Limited Slipping Differential.) Tranny type has indicator letter, dunno what (try reading, check 'Favorite Links' at top right on mentioned page)

Your tranny has selfdiagnostics: do they go through?
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/748507/15
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/748507/21
(Links only for reference as your tranny may have longer err code list)

[sprintuser]

Nahk, thanks for the reply. Those links are very helpful, unfortunately, they are for trannies throught the year 1994 (per description in text). Also, the engine and tranny buttons are different than my 1996 Maxima.

[Nahkapohjola]

Dont get sidetracked: a car is a car, button shape doesnt define a tranny problem... Your tranny also has electronics ctrl unit TCU as 'all' maximas do -and- in the TCU EPROM is self diag program installed that user may run through (as said, fully complete downloadable how to info via 'Favorite Links'). This diagnostics can find out every predetermined electrical/solenoid type wiring/contact problem, temp sensor. However, proper oil change doesnt produce any such failure that this diag can reveal.

If for some odd reason the problem is in the solenoid pack (on car replaceable, I guess 150$) or valve set, cant see how whole used 500$ tranny would be better. Whatever, if u cant clic/get the diag running, I still guess its cheapest to go for a diag run at Nissan shop - before tranny swap. Limit their ta$k just for the diagnostics.

[sprintuser]

I had the transmission looked at. The clutch packs were burnt.

I had a used tranny put in. It is working great. Lesson learnt on my part. This could have been a very costly lesson, but calling around helped me save a bundle.

I will now be working on improving the asethetics (clear lights, tinting etc.).

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Once I get some stuff done, I will post pics.

Take care and thankyou everyone, especially Nahk.

God Bless