Codes 171 & 174 TSB # 03-16-1 update

[TonyMo]

I just signed up so this is my first post. I just wanted to say a big "THANKS" for the instructions.
Here in Ontario, as of Jan 1/13 they now do the emissions test off the computer, not the tailpipe. So, you will not pass if you have a check engine light on.
My 02 Windstar has had the light on for a few years. It did not pass the emissions test and got the codes P1071/P1074.

I found your website and the instruction page at http://leckemby.net/windstar/windstar01.html

The Ford dealership quoted me $550 for this fix. The van isn't worth much more than that. It only has 220 000 kilometres and I'm not ready for a new vehicle yet.
My level of car repair experience is that I change my own oil.
But, I read over this thread and read the instructions on the website a few evenings and gave me enough confidence to try it. I ordered the parts kit from Summit for $95.
I took the laptop out the garage and got started. I took the cowl off following this video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QtPZYA8QWB8
The whole procedure took me 5 hours. The only "oh crap" moment was when a socket slipped out of my fingers and went down one of the intake holes. $4 flexible magnet wand saved the day!
Anyway, the codes cleared no check engine light but still had P1000 for almost two weeks in order to complete the drive cycle. But then, took it back in, passed emissions!

Sorry for the long first post, but I just had to say a big THANK YOU!!!!

[jk2auto]

Looking for some advice for my 2001 Windstar. The van recently developed a surging idle. I replaced the IAC and some vacuum lines that where questionable. This seemed to help, but only for about a day. Now, when idling, the van jumps from 700 RPM to 1500 RPM when I turn the wheel (just enough to engage the PS pump).
I upgraded the isolator bolts a few years ago, but decided to check them out again. While I was at it, I replaced the lower intake manifold gaskets, EGR valve, thermostat, air filter, coil pack, plugs and wires. I also cleaned the MAF sensor, and throttle body. Now the surging idle is gone, but the RPMs still jump when turning the wheel. It is getting dangerous to back into a parking spot, or turn while waiting for traffic.
Could this be the IMRC, or IMRC shafts leaking at the intake manifold? MAF sensor? Vacuum line to the brake booster? Any help would be much appreciated.

[Tampabayer]

Go to Autozone and see if any any error codes come up (they check it for free). Check your IMRC's, disconnect the arms and vac line on each one. Be careful not to damage plastic bushings where you disconnect them. Push the arm into the IMRC, then hold your finger over the vac hole. The arm should stay in. If not the diaphragm is leaking and the IMRC needs to be replaced. Also check the arm that was hooked up to IMRC moves freely.

[olopezm]

Originally Posted by Tampabayer

Go to Autozone and see if any any error codes come up (they check it for free). Check your IMRC's, disconnect the arms and vac line on each one. Be careful not to damage plastic bushings where you disconnect them. Push the arm into the IMRC, then hold your finger over the vac hole. The arm should stay in. If not the diaphragm is leaking and the IMRC needs to be replaced. Also check the arm that was hooked up to IMRC moves freely.

Unfortunately 1999 and newer windstars have an electronically controlled IMRC module so your test won't work in this case.

JK2AUTO - Was the intake tube for the air filter properly installed after the repairs? You might want to try cleaning the IAC with some carb cleaner and see if it helps.

Oscar.

[Mustang_Driver]

Well i broke down and bought another Windstar i originally had a 2000 and when i had the tsb fixed it was at a toyota dealer where i bought the van and after 3 months the motor detonated and i sold it for parts and after 5 years due to a family medical requirement i had to be able to carry a wheel chair in my mustang which it definatley would not fit i sold it and bought a 2001 windstar again the CEL was off i didn't bring my code reader and i got a fairly good deal on it. During the first week it ran great then on the 120km makr the CEL came on and low and behold P0171&P0174 codes (What was i thinking) but after i contacted the dealer they told me they would in no way fix it and it was my problem so after i got the parts list from the dealer($508.60+taxes) and 366.00 for labor i decided to try and fix it myself. i found a kit mad by Dorman Products #615-177 it had all the parts(valve cover & gasket,Isolator bolts,pcv valve and tube,u-shape vacuum line,6 lower intake gaskets,plenum gasket) i ordered it up in Canada paid 120.00 +taxes so i saved 380.00 on parts and my labor. is there anything anyone can give me advise on before i tackle this and on Monday i have to take it to the dealer to get the PCM re-programmed ($60.00) looks fairly straight forward just have to take pictures of everything before i start. i have contacted ford Canada about making this a recall but they pretty much told me to keep my receipts in case of a recall i think for the 380 i saved i will pick up another set in case someone i know buys a windstar or mustang with the 3.8L but am going to be at it first thing in the AM hope all goes well

[scubacat]

Why do you need to get the PCM reprogrammed? Just swap the grommets and port seals, and clean the EGR ports, and you'll be done. Check the little plastic bushings on the IMRC actuator arms as well as they might be brittle or broken by this point, too.

[Mustang_Driver]

it is just part of the TSB maybe there was a parameter that needed adjustment i don't know but i got everything done and the kit i bought came with 2 extra gaskets i am thinking throttle body and IAC (1 is a big round one with a rectangle attached to it and the other kind of looks like 2 peaked rectangles)see pic. once i figure out where they go i'll replace them but it doesn't seem to run any different and i hope the codes went away

[scubacat]

The one on the left is for the throttle body; the one on the right is for the IAC valve. I'd just stick them in a drawer somewhere in case you ever take either of those off someday; they generally do not need to be changed. (I'd just go ahead and replace them if I needed to take the part off and had the gasket already lying around..)

[Mustang_Driver]

thanks for the info... just a quick update i got everything put back together after 2 hrs most of that was making coffee drinking coffee cleaning the oil out of the upper and lower plenum and scrubbing the egr ports. it looks like it had the problem for awhile must be why the dealer jumped on the offer i gave for it but after everything was partially dry i got fed up and just grabbed the leaf blower to dry everything.so i have put 75km on it checked for codes and comes up with 0 codes but 1 monitor still isn't ready EV Monitor(Evaporative System monitor) not sure how many more miles i have to drive for that one to ready itself (Finger's crossed it still comes up 0) overall i found it a pretty easy job to do and on a scale of 10 i rate it at 5 just because you could use a 3rd hand for somethings and getting the upper valve cover bolt was a bit of a pain in the A** with the fuel lines in the way. i did hear that it may throw a p0401 code for the DPFE sensor i forgot to change it while i had it apart but i would do this again if anyone needed help but again thanks for all the input the dealer will be doing the pcm update tomorrow so i will have to go through the readiness monitors all over again.....

[CheeseHead1]

Originally Posted by Mustang_Driver

...the dealer will be doing the pcm update tomorrow so i will have to go through the readiness monitors all over again.....

Do people recommend having the deal do the PCM update? I know it is part of the TSB. I have a 2002 Ford Windstar 3.8L engine.

In another post, someone mentioned that having the PCM update done can actually make your mileage worse - so they did not recommend it.

Also, any tips to get a decent price on the PCM update? My local dealer wanted $100 just to *check* the PCM version, then another $55 or so to update it. That seems excessive.

A local shop said $40 to check the version, then another $80 if it needs the update (I'm guessing that last $80 is probably to take it the same Ford dealer to actually get the update done).

[CheeseHead1]

Originally Posted by Mustang_Driver

....checked for codes and comes up with 0 codes but 1 monitor still isn't ready EV Monitor(Evaporative System monitor) not sure how many more miles i have to drive for that one to ready itself (Finger's crossed it still comes up 0)

In some states you can actually "pass emissions" even if one or more monitors are not set. The laws probably vary state to state, but (for example) here is a summary from Wisconsin.

If your vehicle model year is: We will accept it for inspection with:
1996 – 2000 0, 1, or 2 unset monitors
2001 or newer 0 or 1 unset monitors

I believe other states are similar.

I have also found some really helpful information online on how to get your monitors to set. Do some searching. Again, it varies by vehicle. They recommended driving under varying conditions, including highway miles and also accelerating smoothly from 0 to 50 mph with half throttle.

[CheeseHead1]

This page has the TSB in PDF format (1 document, 4 pages).

[Mustang_Driver]

Well since the repair i haven't seen the dreaded CEL yet..... still comes up with 0/0 codes on my scanner but still has the EV sensor blinking as i guess it hasn't reset yet i don't drive it on the highway so i guess i have to take it for a drive on the highway for a run......i get roughly 200-250km (124-155miles) per quarter tank after the PCM upgrade but i still feel the odd hesitation every now and then but i can deal with it....happy so far with it i just need to find a key fob for it as it is getting closer to winter and it has remote start sure would be nice to get that working next

[Mustang_Driver]

Originally Posted by CheeseHead1

$80 if it needs the update (I'm guessing that last $80 is probably to take it the same Ford dealer to actually get the update done).

Sounds about right..... just depends on the hourly rate and it takes about 30mins to do just go in and tell them you need a pcm update as you had some work done and they'll do it for you . it cost my 117p/hr divided by 2 which was 58.50 then taxes and shop supplies came to just over 70 dollars canadian

[Mustang_Driver]

Okay i don't know if anyone has had this happen, Like i said in previous posts i did the valve cover,egr valve,intake port gaskets,isolator bolts, Upper plenum gasket, U-Shaped fuel rail pressure vacuum line. I have driven the van about 1500KMs since i lost my job and just don't drive much anymore and the van still has 0/0 codes and a blinking EV sensor icon is there something i may have missed as after 1500km it SHOULD have reset itself by now 4-5 months after the repair has been done. i am thinking about selling the van but i don't know if it will pass the emission test if the EV sensor isn't resetting