Why I hate windshield rubbers!! Just wrecked my Skyline!!!!!!

[DSM-Mark]

Pearl light blue R34, clearcoated, polished... looking fabulous. So I masked off the window rubbers, and sprayed with Tamiya Flat black. Took the tape off while it was still tacky, as instructed... well, the tape had bled. So I guess I must have gone on little thick with the paint. Well, now I'm looking at this half dry black paint in all the low spots around the window trim... basically impossible to polish out without polishing through the clearcoat. So then I start thinking... what if I use just a little bit of lacquer thinner? The black paint is fresh, soft, and should come off a lot easier than the 3 week old clearcoat. Besides, it's tamiya lacquer... that stuff doesn't come off for anybody! So I got a rag with lacquer thinner, and gave the excess paint a wipe. Well, in one swipe, It took off the black, the clear, and the pearl light blue all in one shot. ARRRRRRRG!!!!

I need feedback on how you guys do window trims so well without airbrushes. PMan, I've read your routine... just one question... what kind of black enamel do you use? I've tried Humbrol 85, but it also bled through the Tamiya masking tape.

[clem24]

Hey man,

Press your tape down firmly! And someone suggested to spray on clear AFTER you mask so that it will seal the edge (but it won't seal a bad tape job). Live and learn dude!

clem..

[Veyron]

If you used Tamiya bottle acrylic, Windex or some other window cleaner that has ammonia in it will take it off without hurting anything, provided the body is painted with TS or enamel etc.

[DSM-Mark]

Originally Posted by clem24

Hey man,

Press your tape down firmly! And someone suggested to spray on clear AFTER you mask so that it will seal the edge (but it won't seal a bad tape job). Live and learn dude!

clem..

I did press it down! oh well, live and learn I guess.

I just tried the gundam marker + brush paint route for doing rubbers on another body... the results are actually quite respectable. And if you did the initial trace with the panel line approach (thinned black paint, capillary action) you would get more even colour. I think I'll use that method from now on if the window rubber has a recessed line around it (as with the R34).

Thanks, guys.

[chubbs36chambers]

yeah man do the Gundam marker its easy and there is a less of a chance for you not to F*ck up your model. i learned the hardway too!!! and it sux

[Lownslow]

yeah the clear seal worked for me ever since i had a super bad bleed that ruined a beautiful paintjob

[nis.k.a.]

If the madk was firm you probably put in on too thick. Very light sweeps until full coverage. I let it sit for a minute of two between sweeps. It seems to work for me.

[RallyRaider]

Strange you had a lot of bleed through using tamiya tape. When burnished down properly I hardly ever get any bleed through, and if there is a small ammount it can be scraped away with a toothpick before the paint fully cures.

Regardless, it is good to see you have found another method that works for you.

[Fkouch]

I always use Enamel to paint trim on acrylic gloss bodies. If I get any overspill or leaking the excess paint can be removed with White Spirit without damaging the acrylic paint.

As for the leaking, maybe you are thinning your paint too much?

Cheers

Farrokh

[Merkava]

After I apply any kind of masking tape, I usually burnish the edges with a toothpick or my fingernail. It seems to work fairly well. If you need extra protection, you can try spraying clearcoat over the tape. After that, nothing will get through!

Another tip: if you are airbrushing the black paint, don't try to get complete coverage on the first spray. Instead, lightly mist on the first coat. It will seal the edges of the tape and give later coats better adhesion.

[primera man]

I always use enamal paint for the rubbers.
I cant work out way it should have bleed so much if you pressed it down really well and used a toothpick to make sure it was in all the groves.
I always brush mine as the paint is thicker and less likely to run. The spray paint is alot thinner and if the tape is not sealed it will be easier to get under.

If this way is not working for you, go to the Gundam paint marker method

[Vric]

Originally Posted by DSM-Mark

I just tried the gundam marker + brush paint route for doing rubbers on another body...

this is exactly what I do. this is the safiest way. I also use ModelMaster Acrilyc Flat black, so if you make a mistake, it can be cleaned easy.