Search | Car Forums | Gallery | Articles | Helper | AF 350Z | IgorSushko.com | Corporate |
| Latest | 0 Rplys |
|
Show Printable Version | Email this Page | Subscribe to this Thread |
|
Thread Tools |
12-22-2011, 08:05 PM | #1 | |
AF Newbie
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: mpls, Minnesota
Posts: 76
Thanks: 1
Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
|
replacing brakeline
1997 Blazer 4X4 LT. I had to slam on the brakes and driver side brake line going to rear wheel burst around by the back door area. Looked at it and the entire length of brakeline looks rusted. How do you replace this? How do you get to it??? It is on top of the frame rail and looks very inaccesible. Any help is greatly appreciated.
|
|
12-22-2011, 10:15 PM | #2 | |
Nothing scares me anymore
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: City of Light
Posts: 10,702
Thanks: 12
Thanked 82 Times in 77 Posts
|
Re: replacing brakeline
My guess its probably has metric fittings. Many auto parts stores have brake lines in various lengths, complete with all flares and fittings on both ends. It's much easier to use such prefab lines rather than making your own. flaring your own lines is tricky to do, even for experienced mechanics.
I would suggest you carefully remove the line and take it to an auto parts store and get a new line of the same or slightly longer length and width, with matching fittings. If you get the old line off without bending it, you can bend the new line to the same shape, so it takes the same routing. You can usually bend it with your hands, or bend it around some larger sockets to get a nice radius curve. Do not kink or crease the line. If you do, the line is ruined and you will have to start again with another line. Then install it,(try to use the same clips and fittings) tighten the fittings ( a set of line wrenches would be an asset) and bleed the brakes. Make sure the line is secure and does not rub on any sharp edges. Note, if the old line is truly inaccessable, you can leave it in place and run the new line alongside. This may be a bit trickier because you would have to make sure the line is routed away from places where it can be damaged by a stone thrown up, or by off-roading damage. You would also have to secure it properly, so it wont shake or vibrate and will not touch the car on any sharp edges. If you must route a line in such a manner, its best to use an armored line, which is wrapped up in a wire housing. |
|
The Following User Says Thank You to MagicRat For This Useful Post: |
norteno (12-23-2011)
|
12-23-2011, 12:32 AM | #3 | |
AF Newbie
Thread starter
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: mpls, Minnesota
Posts: 76
Thanks: 1
Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
|
Re: replacing brakeline
thanks for the response. I have shaped brakelines in the past and have a couple tools for that purpose. I haven't flared any lines but have used compression fittings before. What is your experience and opinion on them? I like your suggestion of running the new lines next to the old ones. Like you said, I would have to run them where they wouldn't get damaged and attach them securely. I was first thinking I would have to remove old lines completely and run the new ones in the exact same place and that is where it seemed very difficult so I was really wondering was whether there was any proper, or easy, procedure for removing old lines from along the frame rail on the 97 blazer because I just couldn't see how to reach up there and disconnect and reconnect things; there just is not enough working room it seems. thanks again!!
|
|
12-23-2011, 12:13 PM | #4 | |
Advisor/Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Belleville, Michigan
Posts: 5,184
Thanks: 6
Thanked 103 Times in 95 Posts
|
Re: replacing brakeline
DO NOT use compression fittings. Compression fittings are only rated to 170psi, not NEARLY enough for a brake line. Brake lines must use inverted flare or bubble flare. The OEM fittings on the vehicle are in fact metric. If it's a 4 door, you can remove the fuel tank and get right at the entire length of line.
__________________
You have to know how it works, to figure out why it doesn't. |
|
12-23-2011, 01:49 PM | #5 | ||
AF Premium User
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Clarks Hill, Indiana
Posts: 2,724
Thanks: 0
Thanked 28 Times in 28 Posts
|
Re: replacing brakeline
Quote:
|
||
12-23-2011, 03:48 PM | #6 | |
AF Fanatic
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Worcester, Massachusetts
Posts: 5,017
Thanks: 70
Thanked 618 Times in 610 Posts
|
Re: replacing brakeline
Like Old Master said, NEVER use compression fittings.....
This vehicle uses a bubble flare......if you can find a good section of pipe, you cut it there, install nut and then make the bubble flare....then use a union and go new pipe the rest of the way(can measure this with a string alongside the old pipe, then measure the string itself)......then purchase pre-made sections and unions to make up the length.... |
|
12-23-2011, 11:19 PM | #7 | |
AF Newbie
Thread starter
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: mpls, Minnesota
Posts: 76
Thanks: 1
Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
|
Re: replacing brakeline
thanks to all! That's exactly what I was looking for. Specific information. I'm gonna attempt this next week and I expect also to replace some other brakeline hardware which may be rusted, corroded or froze. I will update next weekend. It is a four door so I will first remove gas tank.MERRY CHRISTMAS
|
|
12-24-2011, 08:07 AM | #8 | ||
AF Fanatic
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: EVERETT, Massachusetts
Posts: 10,898
Thanks: 8
Thanked 432 Times in 431 Posts
|
Re: replacing brakeline
Quote:
|
||
12-30-2011, 09:41 PM | #9 | |
AF Newbie
Thread starter
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: mpls, Minnesota
Posts: 76
Thanks: 1
Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
|
Re: replacing brakeline
thanks to everone for the good sound advice. I wasn't able to complete job yet; had family emergency. I got the side of truck up on jack stands and removed wheels and sprayed down brake line unions and fuel tank strap nuts with PB Blaster. That's as far as I got. I'll get back to you.
|
|
12-31-2011, 08:13 AM | #10 | ||
AF Fanatic
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: EVERETT, Massachusetts
Posts: 10,898
Thanks: 8
Thanked 432 Times in 431 Posts
|
Re: replacing brakeline
Quote:
|
||
12-31-2011, 10:04 AM | #11 | |
AF Fanatic
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Worcester, Massachusetts
Posts: 5,017
Thanks: 70
Thanked 618 Times in 610 Posts
|
Re: replacing brakeline
Pretty sure these are bubble flares, not double flares....
|
|
12-31-2011, 12:38 PM | #12 | |
AF Fanatic
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: EVERETT, Massachusetts
Posts: 10,898
Thanks: 8
Thanked 432 Times in 431 Posts
|
Re: replacing brakeline
the double flare tool I use makes the same flare that the brake line fittings sold at the part stores sell. the replaement tubing sections sold as well.
I know british vehicles use the 37 deg bubble... the double flare tool I use is 45deg and fits perfect with the new fittings. I believe these vehicles do have the bubble 37 deg flare. that would be the ISO. I used SAE so I went with the double flare fittings. |
|
01-14-2012, 11:52 AM | #13 | |
AF Newbie
Thread starter
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: mpls, Minnesota
Posts: 76
Thanks: 1
Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
|
Re: replacing brakeline
Just to update... I haven't done much yet. As always, been too busy. The truck is in my garage with driver's side on jack stands and wheels removed. I guess I do have decent access to the old line and there doesn't seem to be any unions between the one behind the front wheel and the one near rear axle. I have pryed the old line from the plastic clips, sprayed fittings wih PB blaster and that's about it. someone said to cut the lines at the nut and then loosen it with six point socket, that it might be easier that way instead of using flare wrench. I really appreciate all the input from you all. I'll update again later.
|
|
01-28-2012, 10:15 AM | #14 | |
AF Newbie
Thread starter
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: mpls, Minnesota
Posts: 76
Thanks: 1
Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
|
Re: replacing brakeline
well I did cut the lines at the nuts at both ends and used six point socket or wrench to loosen nuts. They came out easier than I anticipated but then they had been soaking in PB blaster for a month. Then I felt my way along the brake line on top of frame rail and felt the plastic clips and pried the brake line out with a flat scewdriver. There were four clips. Once the brakeline was loose, I pulled it out from the rear wheel well twisting and turning until it came right out. It was one piece ten feet long. I did not have to drop fuel tank thankfully. I plan to use 2 pieces of the AGS poly armour bendable pre flared lines with one union placed somewhere in between where it would be easy to get to, probably in rear wheel well area where there is enough open space to get wrenches in. Thanks for listening and thanks for all the advice, I used a lot of you guys knowledge and it got my old brain turning too! Does anyone have any experience with the AGS poly armour lines? Can they really be bent by hand without kinking?
|
|
01-28-2012, 11:53 AM | #15 | ||
AF Fanatic
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: EVERETT, Massachusetts
Posts: 10,898
Thanks: 8
Thanked 432 Times in 431 Posts
|
Re: replacing brakeline
Quote:
two piece is what I did for this one . on the type lines you used I never used them , but using a tubing bender is a good idea especially on the abs pump bend area. |
||
|
POST REPLY TO THIS THREAD |
Thread Tools | |
|
|