2004 Duratec water pump belt?

[MyTaurus8AChevy]

Does anyone have any idea on how to change a water pump belt on a 2004 Duratec DOHC? There are NO adjustments on either pulley. The bottom pully is pressed onto the water pump. The top pulley comes straight out of the engine. Nothing adjusts on either pulley. I had 5 mechanics look at it they were all amazed at how it was made with no adjustments anywhere. I can't believe that Ford would want someone to rebuild an engine just to replace a belt There's got to be some trick to putting the new belt on, right?

[shorod]

Not sure on the 2004 specifically, but on the older Duratech, I simply pushed on the belt which compressed a tensioner (even though it may not look like one), then held it in place with one hand while working the belt off. To put the new one on, I got the belt on as far as I could, pulled up on the belt to release the tensioner a bit, held the tensioner in place and slid the belt on.

-Rod

[MyTaurus8AChevy]

Unfortunately this one has no tensioner. I'll try to take some pictures so you can see what I mean

[MyTaurus8AChevy]

The top pic is the top pulley. The other two pics are the bottom pulley. Both pulleys are fixed (no adjustments).














(if pictures don't load all the way, simply refresh the page)

[shorod]

I don't have the service manual for the 2004, but decided to check the 2002 just for the heck of it. The service manual would imply that you may need to add a tensioner if you replace the belt. The water pump and drive pulleys look the same on the 2002, but mounted to the round location halfway between the two pulleys is a tensioner. In the instructions, the manual states:
Accessory Drive Belt Tensioner —Water Pump, 3.0L (4V)

Removal and Installation

1. NOTE: If equipped with belt tensioner.
   Remove the water pump belt. For additional information, refer to Water Pump Belt—3.0L (4V) in this section.

1. Remove the bolt and the belt tensioner.

1. To install, reverse the removal procedure.

It appears that a tensioner could be bolted on to your engine as well, then it would look exactly like the 2002.

-Rod

[MyTaurus8AChevy]

There does look like theres a place to add a tensioner, but when we went to the Ford dealer they said that it's not meant for a 2004.

Here are the directions for how to remove and install the new water pump belt, just in case anyone else runs into this situation with a 2004-6 Duratec.

First you'll need to copy your VIN number, as the Ford dealer will need it to order the correct replacement belt. Depending on the date of manufacture, you may need a different belt number. It should be either JK3-262 or JK3-274. The Motorcraft web site says that all of these cars use the JK3274, but that is incorrect. Ours did need the JK3-262. You'll also need to save the old belt after you remove it, so that the Ford parts guy can double check it before you buy the replacement belt.

Unless you want to disassemble the entire engine to replace this belt, there is only one of two ways to remove the old belt. You can either cut the old belt off with a pair of tinsnips or a knife, or you can try to pry the old belt off, but if you try to pry the old belt off you may do some damage to the large (upper) pulley, so be careful! We simply used a pair of tin snips and the belt was off in 5 seconds Once the old belt is off you'll need to bring it to the Ford dealer so they can match it up with either JK3-262 or JK3-274. Don't forget to bring your VIN number.

There currently is NO aftermarket replacement belt. A lot of stores list the Gatorback, but (sadly) it is 1 3/4 inches too big. We contacted Goodyear and they do NOT make a 25.5 inch Gatotback belt. It jumps from 25 inches to 26 inches, but nothing inbetween. This is why you'll need to buy the Motorcraft replacement belt. If Goodyear ever decides to carry the correct size belt for this it will be part number 4030255.

Getting the new belt on is a little trickier. Once the old belt has been removed you'll need to wrap the new belt around the bottom pulley, and then start to wrap it around the upper pulley on the side of the pulley that is closest to the windshield. Obviously it won't wrap completely around but as you'll see that's not a big problem. The problem is that once you let go of the new belt it might try to slip off. We used a small piece of tape to hold it in place. Then simply tap the ignition switch (do NOT start the car, just tap the ignition for a second). All you want to do is to get the pulleys to turn a half of a turn. Then the new belt will automatically slip into place by itself. Do NOT be tempted to try to hold the belt in place while someone else taps the ignition. If you try to hold it in place you WILL be injured, so please use some common sense If the belt slips off just reposition it again, and tap the ignition again for a second. Once the new belt is on simply replace the Duratec belt cover (two screws). It takes around 5 seconds to remove the old belt, and around a minute or two to install the new one using the method above. The hardest part (or should I say most frustrating part) is to get the new belt to hold in place on the upper pulley just before you tap the ignition. If anyone needs a diagram for how the belt should look just before you tap the ignition just let me know and I'll draw and post one for you

[shorod]

Good info, thank you for the post!

-Rod

[MyTaurus8AChevy]

Glad to be of help Rod We looked everywhere to get information on how to do this but no one knew anything about it. Many mechanics looked at it and scratched their heads, saying they've never seen anything like it before. I just figured that there should be a place that explains the procedure so that no one had to go through what we went through (we have lots less hair now)

When you see that there is no tensioner you start to panic, but it's actually an easy install. Just wish that Goodyear made a Gatorback belt for it. Unfortunately there is no aftermarket belt made for this car which doesn't make sense. Aftermarket companies are supposed to want to make money. The Taurus is one of Fords best selling cars so you'd think they'd make parts for it, especially something as simple as a belt. Like tires, belts naturally wear out, yet no aftermarket company makes a belt for this car. What should have been a 7.00 belt ended up costing closer to 30.00. If you have the option of time you can always buy it wholesale from Big Ford Parts on the net, but it will still cost 19.00 plus shipping.

[Huney1]

WOW! I would have loved to see the look on your face when you were looking for the non-existent tensioner. "Hey Bro' Where's the tensioner? I'll be dad-burn if I know . . ."

Belt price: When I changed ours 03 Vulcan I bought the top of the line belt from Advance, they don't carry Gator Backs, and it was like $32.00 Can't remember the name of the belt now . . . old age has it's way of causing memory loss. I priced a Gator Back at Auto Zone and they were $37.00 I stowed the old belt in with the sapare tire so's if I get out in the boon-docks and need it I'll have it. I rented the long handled wrench tool and took me and my neighbor 10 mintues to change it, but we weren't in a hurry.

A friend of mine went to change a alternator belt on a diesel and did the trick putting it half way on the pulley then 'bump' the starter. He forgot to disconnect the governor and when he bumped it it fired off and scared him and he was pressing on the belt and the belt did go on the pulley BUT, . . . you guessed it, . . . his finger slid between the belt and the pulley and darn near cut it off. Man, that's got'ta hurt! After that I always used the handle of a screw driver to hold it in place and kept my fingers out of the way.

[MyTaurus8AChevy]

Originally Posted by Huney1

WOW! I would have loved to see the look on your face when you were looking for the non-existent tensioner. "Hey Bro' Where's the tensioner? I'll be dad-burn if I know . . ."

LOL That's almost word for word what these mechanics that looked at it said. They were scratching their heads saying stuff like "I wonder why Ford did that" "nope, can't move the bottom pulley, that's pressed on... nope, can't move the top pulley that's part of the engine"

I priced a Gator Back at Auto Zone and they were $37.00

For a serpentine yes, but this belt is very small, about 1/4 inch (3 ribs) by a foot long. We found Gatorbacks this size for 6.99 on the net Unfortunately they were either 1/2 inch too big or too small. If there were a tensioner then the Gatorback would have worked.

his finger slid between the belt and the pulley

Just thinking about that gives me the willeys Nothing should EVER be by a pulley when it is moving. It's the same principle of how a scissors works. This is why I left a warning about this in my post. A small piece of tape works good and after you tap the ignition you simply remove the tape, or it would probably just fall off anyways because it's spinning so fast

Now my next project is to manufacture a Billet grille for the Taurus. I've been searching all over for one for the last 7 months and no one makes one Found lots of people who want one though Once I find the material it shouldn't be too hard to make.

[MyTaurus8AChevy]

Originally Posted by Huney1

You should find material here

When I went to the first link it was for a replacement grille. You can get a new one from Ford for the same price from here. No one wants to sell the raw material but I think I have a good lead on some. One company is sending me samples to build a mesh grille and I'm going out to look for the Billet material today. What I really want is electropolished aluminum but that might be harder to find. One thing I know is that it will be the only Taurus with a custom grille

Here's an update on the new belt. It seems to be working fine (knock on wood). I've got a feeling though that we'll be seeing a lot of people with water pump problems because not having a tensioner is putting undo extra stress on the pumps bearings. A new pump from Ford costs 170.00

[Huney1]

Originally Posted by I've got a feeling though that we'll be seeing a [i

lot[/i] of people with water pump problems because not having a tensioner is putting undo extra stress on the pumps bearings. A new pump from Ford costs 170.00

I understand and the belt has no option but run as tight as the pulleys demand and not exactly one of Fords engineering masterpieces there. Causes one to ask that age old question; "I wonder why they did a dumb thing like that?"

[MyTaurus8AChevy]

Originally Posted by Huney1

I understand and the belt has no option but run as tight as the pulleys demand

And this belt IS tight! So tight that there is hardly any give on it when you try to move it. It reminds me of putting strings on a guitar The next belt size (JK3-274) is an inch bigger, and loose enough to fall off while the engine is running. I wouldn't be surprised if this extra pulley stress is hurting milage somewhat too

[Huney1]

Google 'belt tension tester'. http://www.latus-harley-davidson.com...ester-Tool.htm http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q...=Google+Search

Got'ta get out'a here and back to work. Later . . .

[Huney1]

Something didn't sit right and it finally dawned on me, . . . why would he need a tensiometer when there is no way to adjust the belt? You big dummy!
I know, . . I get a zero for the day, . . . but wait'll you're 66 and you'll better understand.