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Old 12-16-2001, 09:58 PM   #1
94hatchsi
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installing my new d16z6 head.....what do i

i just recently bought a worked sohc vtec head and im goin to be installing it as soon as i can get all the parts to do it. heres what im thinking i'll need
*new water pump
*new timing belt
*new clutch
*new oem head gaskets http://inlinefour.com/topgaskit.html
*new arp head studs http://inlinefour.com/arpheavduthe.html
im kinda lost on what to get so if you guys can think of anything that i should be buying let me know.....thanks
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Old 12-17-2001, 09:59 AM   #2
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Re: installing my new d16z6 head.....what do i

The water pump change isn't neccesary but would be sort of a preventative measure. The timing belt I'm assuming you don't need either, I don't see why your old one wouldn't work unless again, you want to do it just in case, same with your clutch. The head gasket, I would replace but you can find the same thing at your honda dealership. And unless you've built your motor for massive turbo or nitrous, then the ARP head bolts will be overkill. You still need to get new head bolts but OE will be fine.
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Old 12-17-2001, 03:13 PM   #3
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heres what the new head has done to it:also i bought it used but it looks really good im mean like spot less. also ive been told that i should have a bout 140 horse at the wheels. the motor by the summer will have a cai, header, and new cat back. also could i safley use a zex 50 shot on this or should i not. thanks

Fully Ported & Polished Head, Ferrea custom Stainless Steal Valves (mushroom cut, undercut, and swirl polished), 5-angle Valve Job,WebCam Dual Valve Springs and Titanium Retainers, WebCam custom VTEC Camshaft, AEM Adjustable Cam Gear (Red) ,all Guides and Seals replaced new OEM Honda , Ported OEM Honda Throttle Body , Ported OEM Honda Intake Manifold (port matched to head and throttle body) , Reprogrammed P28 ECU (fuel cut-off at 9,000RPM)
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Old 12-17-2001, 05:39 PM   #4
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Wow, now that's the right way to get a head job. Ok retake, the new clutch is a must. The timing I would definitly get and the ARP bolts still aren't completely neccesary but are still prefered over stock in this situation. I'd also think of getting a stronger and/or thinner head gasket. The nitrous? I don't think your stock bottom end could take the new found head WITH an additional 50 shot of "NAWS". I'd atleast get some stronger rods before trying. It sounds like you've designed this with natural aspiration in mind. Some new forged and/or higher compression pistons would be right up your alley but they might bump up the compression to the point where other things might need to be upgraded as well. You'll at the very least need to invest in a savings account to save up for a life of 93 octane.
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Old 12-17-2001, 08:15 PM   #5
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yeah your tellin me i think im in love with this head. for 1500 i got it for thats better than any gude head. so you think that a thiner head gasket is a must. where may i find this at. i can only find oem ones. and should i be using 93 octane when i fill up once i get her one or what. thanks for the replys man your more than helpful
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Old 12-17-2001, 08:54 PM   #6
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Wow $1500 is a lot, but when you think of how much it would've cost you seperately, it ain't that bad. I don't think the thinner gasket is a MUST but a stronger one is definitly prefered just like the timing belt, for insurance. And the stronger gaskets are usually thinner. Which could be good or bad. It would bump up compression a little which would make even more power but it could like I said before make something else inadequate and need to be upgraded, like fuel or spark concerns. I wouldn't know exactly where to get it, I haven't searched for it.

And I would also get an MSD ignition system. It doesn't cost that much for what it could do for you. Then with the capabilities of the system, you could try 89 octane and play around with the MSD timing to see if 89 is enough for what you want. But if the only way it doesn't knock is with 20 degrees of retard (example), then yeah I guess 92 or 93 would be in order. It's all about tuning. I'd also definitly get a A/F ratio gauge to make sure you keep the ratio within check and you don't blow up your "brand new" engine. There's probably something else but that's all I could think of right now
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